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The Three Tiers of Sweatshirts: Entry, Mid, and End Level

The Three Tiers of Sweatshirts: Entry, Mid, and End Level

See what makes the difference between a mall bought Uniqlo and the top of the line loopwheeled sweat from Japan.

James Smith

The sweatshirt is the king of sportswear. Virtually unchanged in over 100 years, the blueprint set out by college football player Benjamin Russel Jr. in 1920 has become a cornerstone of American style and an undisputed mainstay of the modern wardrobe. But behind the fundamentalism of the sweatshirt are hundreds of brands offering their take on the cotton classic, spanning from humble high-street numbers to the not-so-humble Japanese loopwheeled behemoths.

We’ve covered the different levels of raw denim jeans, leather jackets, and welted boots, so we’ve put together this buyer’s guide on the different grades of sweatshirt makers on the market today. Just like before, we’ve broken this guide down into three tiers that will help you understand where your money is going when choosing your next sweatshirt.

This is not to say that the more expensive options are objectively better, just that they have certain details that are more specific and often time-intensive to manufacture. Whether that’s worth the money is entirely up to you!

Entry Level (Sub $70)

Image via GAP.

Entry-level sweatshirts cover anything under $70 that you can find on the high street or in your local mall. Sweatshirts of this caliber will typically be mass-produced using a fleece-back cotton or loopback jersey. They will feature basic construction with overlocked seams and minimal stitch count. Sweatshirts of this level may lack in artisanal quality or heritage kudos, but they still get the job done, keeping you warm and comfy. Especially if they’re 100% cotton, however, this is slightly rarer in the entry level, as brands like the big names like Gildan, Hanes, and Russell blend cotton with polyester to keep costs lower; often at a 50/50 blend!

Many unique vintage sweatshirts you can find in thrift or vintage stores will be an entry-level sweatshirt. Old collegiate sweatshirts are usually printed on cheap wholesale sweatshirts from brands like Gildan or Jerzees. Vintage articles do have a higher chance of being 100% cotton, though.

Notable brands of this tier include:

Mid Tier Sweatshirts ($70-$150)

House of Blanks sweatshirt, made by legendary Canadian knitting mill, Roopa.

At the mid-tier, sweatshirts get a bit more niche and typically demand a cost of around $70 to $150, depending on the brand. Many sweats in this tier will be made of high-quality cotton jersey and fleece from Portugal and Canada, with a significant portion of these garments also being cut and sewn in those countries. Most options at this price-range will be 100% cotton, 90% at the least.

In terms of build quality, mid-tier sweatshirts are more likely to be manufactured in developed countries and use more labor-intensive construction techniques, such as flatlock seams and tubular knitting. Flat-locked seams are more durable than overlocked seams and provide a higher level of comfort as they leave no layers of seam on the underside of the fabric. Tubular knitting is a much slower construction technique that leaves a sweater with no side seams for optimum fit and durability.

Champion’s Reverse Weave fabric. Via End Clothing

Despite their humble price point, we have included Champion’s Reverse Weave sweatshirts in this tier. Champion patented their Reverse Weave fabric in 1938  (though not finalized until 1952) and revolutionized the athletic goods industry. Sports coaches at the time were looking for a fabric for sports kit that wouldn’t shrink or deteriorate when laundered heavily in large quantities. Champion’s answer was Reverse Weave, a horizontal knitting technique that not only minimized shrinkage but made athletic garments more durable. To this day, Reverse Weave cotton fleece makes for a solid sweatshirt that will sit comfortably next to its more expensive counterparts.

At the time of writing, you can pick up a Champion Reverse Weave sweatshirt for $60, and a made-in-USA version for $140 (links below).

Notable makers of mid-level sweatshirts include:

End Tier Sweatshirts ($150+)

Image via Self Edge

This is where sweats get serious. End-level sweatshirts will likely be made from loopwheeled fleece or premium heavyweight cotton fleece, complete with vintage-inspired construction techniques like flat-lock seams, double-v neck inserts, and set-in collars.

The Strike Gold indigo-dyed sweatshirt (left) & Samurai Jeans Sweatshirt Kuri dyed with chestnut skins (right). Images via Redcast Heritage.

At this tier, you’re mainly looking at Japanese manufacturing. Many Japanese labels treat sweatshirt production like the production of denim goods, researching vintage articles and making historically-inspired reproductions with meticulous attention to detail and quality. Some Japanese brands like Studio D’Artisan and UES apply unique dyeing techniques to their loopwheeled sweatshirts, such as indigo dye, kakishibu (persimmon), and Dorozome mud-dye, all of which have the potential for stunning patina.

Loopwheeled cotton is only made in a handful of factories in the world, producing an extremely low tension knit that wears well and, naturally, is more expensive. We’ve called it the selvedge of knitwear for a reason; it’s the gold standard for cotton knit fabrics.

Cushman Freedom Sleeve Sweatshirt. Via Clutch Cafe

Sweatshirts of this tier will start around $150 and reach prices well over $300, but the discerning customer will notice a considerable difference. It’s hard to beat the feel and durability of a truly well-engineered sweatshirt that has been built to last and look better with age.

Notable makers of end-level sweatshirts include:

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