The History of Zippers: Talon, Universal, and Gideon Sundback

A look into Talon and Gideon Sundback, the company and the man responsible for making zippers what they are today.

Austin Bryant

Together with

These days, zippers are so commonplace on clothing that they largely go unnoticed—until they stop working, that is. Few realize how much of a breakthrough they were roughly a century ago, and how they changed the construction of not only clothing, but also luggage, camping gear, and sporting goods in general. The company that eventually came to be known as Talon dominated the zipper market for much of the 20th century and had a huge role in marketing and popularizing the “clasp locker.”

Now popular in repro garments, Talon zippers originally started under a different name entirely. Whitcomb Judson, often credited as the true inventor of what came to be known as the zipper, originally presented the grand idea at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair under the Universal Fastener Company. Unfortunately for him and unknowing consumers, it was a bit of a dud. While the idea was there, the marketing and practicality were not, and the zipper failed to catch on.

/In Partnership with Iron & Resin/

Inside the Cruiser Jacket – Iron & Resin’s Waxed Canvas Workhorse

When it comes to resilient and hardwearing cotton fabrics, waxed canvas is pretty much undisputed — at least in the outerwear world. A densely woven cotton imbued with protective oils that provide strength and water-resistance, waxed canvas is a do-it-all fabric that also happens to age beautifully, making it perfect for a rugged jacket from free-spirited Californian label, Iron & Resin.

Iron & Resin’s Cruiser Jacket is an InR staff and customer favorite, built from 14.75 oz. Waxed Canvas and lined with its 9 oz. Klamath Flannel blanket fabric. Built for the long haul, this updated version of the Cruiser is designed to withstand use and abuse and look all the better for it. Waxed canvas got its start in sailing before becoming an outdoor, workwear, and motorcycling staple in the early 20th century, and its utilitarian properties – in addition to its penchant for attractive, shimmery patina — have allowed waxed canvas garments to persevere for generations, notwithstanding seismic developments in textile production. This longstanding heritage and rugged spirit are what inspired this updated rendition of Iron & Resin’s Cruiser Jacket.

The Cruiser has a clean, no-frills silhouette that lets the fabric and construction do the talking. Iron & Resin’s passion for motorcycling is evident in the gusseted cuffs to make space for gloves, action gussets on shoulders for ease of movement, and the use of waxed canvas that nods to heritage motorcycling jackets. The Jacket secures with a heavy-duty two-way Talon zipper closure and snap button placket, with those snaps echoed throughout the jacket, including on the dual chest pockets.

Available in Black, Olive, and Field Tan, each Cruiser Jacket is finished with three interior pockets, brushed fleece linings on the hip pockets, and a locker loop in the neckline for easy storage when you make it back to the ranch.

Available at Iron & Resin for $299.

Not ones to accept defeat, the zipper men moved to Hoboken, New Jersey, and brought on Gideon Sundback, the man who would come to define the modern zipper in 1906. Sundback was a Swedish-American electrical engineer and essentially the father of the zipper we see today. After ingratiating himself with the company through his good skills (and by marrying the plant manager’s daughter), Sundback devoted himself to improving the fastener.

By December 1913, Sundback not only perfected the zipper but also the machine that built them–now the “clasp locker” was ready for primetime. Sundback and FM&M didn’t actually coin the term “zipper”—that honor goes to one of their first clients, the B. F. Goodrich Company, which invented the term to advertise its use on their rubber boots. The names quickly became synonymous, and it began to appear on tobacco pouches and boots across the country, but it took another 20 years for the garment industry to adapt the zipper for use on jeans, jackets, and trousers.

Talon dominated the zipper market up until the 1980s, when Japanese manufacturer YKK seized the zipper throne and has held it since. Talon is still rightly celebrated by nostalgists and historical purists, as it’s a window to America’s manufacturing past. While vintage shopping, it wouldn’t be shocking to find a classic Talon zipper on a perfectly-aged Schott NYC leather jacket, and you can still see them today on repro garments from brands across the heritage clothing space.

So next time you look to examine your zipper, give thanks to Gideon Sundback that we can all close our clothes a little bit easier.