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The Heddels Guide to Raw Denim Boot Cut Jeans - Blue Beach Denim
David Shuck
February 10, 2026
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The Heddels Guide to Raw Denim Boot Cut Jeans
If you want a bootcut raw and/or selvedge denim jean, look no further than our raw bootcut A-Z featuring a range of quality makers.
James Smith
Unlike most of the fits we discuss on our humble denim site, the bootcut jean feels like it never quite gets its day in the sun. Ridiculed by many and revered by few, the bootcut is divisive. Though its heyday is long gone, it’s not extinct and will continue thanks to some die-hard lovers of the silhouette. And with the fashion cycle currently passing through a wave of Western wear, it’s sure to pick up a few more admirers along the way.
As we have previously discussed, in our Defense of the Bootcut, a good bootcut is a subtle one, and definitely made of raw and/or selvedge denim. Though bootcut jeans might seem like a risky move to some of our more skittish, slim-taper fans, they have always and will always have their fans.
Whether you’re a bootcut fanboy, need a solid pair to complement your boots, or are just looking to break out of your usual silhouette, this is the guide for you. We’ve researched the best-quality bootcut jeans and put them in a handy A-Z that we’ll be updating frequently for all of your bootcut needs.
Fabric: Various raw selvedge denim fabrics
Rise: Low to mid
Details: Ornate rear pocket arcuates, inspired by 50s/60s bootcut silhouettes
Made in: USA
Available from $158 from Brave Star Selvage.
/ In Partnership with Blue Beach Denim /
If you’re into end-tier t-shirts, sweatshirts, and hoodies, Wonder Looper is pretty impossible to ignore at this point. They’ve been making waves in the last few years with their releases of Japanese-made cotton garb in showstopping fabrics that push far beyond industry norms—some tipping the scales heavier than raw denim. In fact, Wonder Looper’s Double Heavyweight French Terry is one of the heaviest sweat fabrics on earth, and it’s just dropped in some beautiful Foxfibre renditions.
At a staggering 825gsm/24.3 oz. per square yard, if Double Heavyweight French Terry isn’t the heaviest terry in the world, it’s certainly the heaviest in our niche. Woven on circular knitting machines in Wakayama—Japan’s knitwear capital—this monumental fabric features a low-gauge knit that creates an irregular surface texture and oversized, plush loops on the interior. The weave alone is remarkable, but when paired with naturally colored Foxfibre, it enters an entirely different stratosphere.
Grown in New Mexico by agricultural innovator Sally Fox, Foxfibre is an extra-long-staple organic cotton that naturally grows in shades of brown and green, eliminating the need for chemical dyes. Wonder Looper has opted for Foxfibre’s Coyote color for the ‘Coyote 80’ rendition of its Double Heavyweight French Terry. A gorgeous light umber tone that showcases the natural majesty of Foxfibre. Coyote 80 is comprised of 80% Foxfibre and 20% long-staple organic cotton, a blend that makes for a robust yet handsome fabric, full of texture.
Wonder Looper has applied Coyote 80 Double Heavyweight French Terry to a Pullover Hoodie, Zip-Up Hoodie, and Pullover Crewneck. Each piece is made in Japan to the brand’s exacting standards, which are underpinned by a combined 40 years of industry experience. But just a word of warning, Wonder Looper’s cult following means their products often sell out fast. If you don’t happen to snag your size, be sure to check out the other options over at Blue Beach Denim, including the super-soft Fleeced Foxfibre and lighter-weight Coyote 70 tees and waffle thermals.
Available at Blue Beach Denim from $398.
Fabric: 14.5 oz. Kaihara Mills Japanese selvedge denim
Rise: Mid to high
Details: Roomy top block suitable for folks with larger thighs, two-piece waistband, double outseam stitch, Japanese herringbone pocket bags
Made in: USA
Available from $285 at Franklin & Poe.
Fabric: 13.7oz Fullcount Original Japanese Denim (non selvedge)
Rise: Mid to high
Details: One wash (little to no shrinkage with cool wash), 100% Zimbabwe Cotton, Goat Skin Leather Patch
Made In: Japan
Available for $300 from Blue in Green.
Indigofera Wyatt
Fabric: 14oz Uneven Broken Twill raw non-selvedge denim
Rise: High
Details: Unwashed raw fabric, patches on waistband and rear pocket, copper hardware
Made in: Portugal
Available for $265 from Iron Shop Provisions.
Fabric: 14 oz. broken twill non-selvedge denim (rinsed)
Rise: High
Details: Easy break-in period, patches on waistband and rear pocket, copper hardware
Made in: Portugal
Available from $182 (on sale) at TENDREL.
Fabric: 100% cotton ‘rigid’ non selvedge denim
Rise: Mid to high
Details: Zip fly, iconic Levi’s arcuates, and red tab
Made in: China or Cambodia
Available for $99 at Levi’s
Naked and Famous Groovy Guy
Fabric: 12.5 oz. natural indigo raw selvedge denim (sanforized)
Rise: Mid to high
Details: Branded leather waist patch, unique natural indigo denim, under $200 as standard
Made in: Canada
Available for $176 at Tate and Yoko.
Fabric: 13.7 oz. rigid non-selvedge denim
Rise: Mid
Details: Gentle bootcut fit, good budget option, orange contrast stitching throughout, Nudie stores offer repairs
Made in: Italy
Available at Cultizm for $143
Fabric: 16 oz. Japanese East Meets West selvedge denim
Rise: Low to mid
Details: Denim made from 100% Tenessee cotton ring-spun yarns, dyed with natural indigo (red-blue shimmer), ornate front pocket stitching, branded leather waist patch
Made in: USA
Available for $512 from DeeCee Style.
Fabric: Samurai ‘Kiwami’ 19 oz. raw selvedge denim
Rise: Low to mid
Details: Silver ‘Katana’ selvedge ID, iron sunrise buttons, heavyweight fabric that yields high contrast fades
Made in: Japan
Available for $365 from Samurai Jeans.
Fabric: 14oz. Japanese denim (non selvedge)
Rise: Mid to high
Details: Universal zip fly, period-correct paper waist patch, and cotton-poly core stitching, hidden selvedge detail on the back belt loop, Zimbabwe & Texas cotton blend denim—double ring-spun for durability and texture
Made in: Japan
Available for $244 from Redcast Heritage.
Fabric: 12-13 oz. broken twill selvedge denim (sanforized)
Rise: Mid
Details: Iconic ‘W’ rear pocket stitching, the most iconic Westernwear jean, great budget option but note potential QC issues.
Made in: Unknown (Likely Mexico, Bangladesh, Vietnam, China, or Indonesia)
Available for $99.99 from Wrangler.
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