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Textile Tales: Chambray

We explore the history of the ubiquitous workwear, chambray, as well as its structure, properties, and modern uses.

Austin Bryant

It’s no secret that chambray has exploded in popularity in recent years. Makers and retailers across the spectrum have all reached in for their piece of the action, to the point where the fabric is ubiquitous enough for the everyday consumer.

There’s a reason for that popularity: chambray offers the unique texture and appearance of denim but without the heft. Denim shirts are great and can produce some interesting fades, but we’re not all out here trying to sweat uncontrollably during the summer months.

Chambray, perhaps unsurprisingly, has a storied and century-old history. Ever wondered where the term “blue collar” came from?

A Brief History of Chambray

Chambray’s history begins in the mid-1500s, as it originally found roots in a historic fabric named cambric. Cambric is a lightweight plain weave fabric that was made from linen at the time. The cloth was originally produced in Cambrai, a formerly Flemish region in northern France. A high-quality cloth, cambric was often used for shirting, handkerchiefs, and intricate pieces like lace and needlework. The term cambricis synonymous with “batiste,” a term that also originated around the same time period.

Chambray stemmed from this plain weave fabric, and the English spelling of the term first became widely used in the early 1800s. It was formally endorsed in places like the 1831 US Farmer’s Bulletin:

The fabric made its way into widespread American use in 1901, when the U.S. Navy first authorized the use of denim and chambray. From then on through World War II, it was commonplace to see sailors wearing chambray shirts and denim trousers. Workers all over the U.S. quickly adopted the shirting fabric, giving birth to the widespread term “blue collar.”

The Structure of Chambray

If you’ve ever taken a close look at chambray fabric, then you know that it has a signature pattern that gives it an almost heathered appearance. This comes from a colored warp yarn (usually blue) and a white weft yarn, woven in a 1×1 plain weave. The white yarns running over the colored yarns give the fabric a certain depth, all while maintaining a lighter weight.

Of course, chambray can be woven in different densities, much like denim. Finely made lightweight chambray dress shirts are now more commonplace than they ever were. However, heavier chambray workshirts will always be a hit with people who like a little more heft to their clothing.

/ In Partnership with Devium /

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Chambray Today

Chambray is so popular these days that even the “everyman” mall shopper wouldn’t balk at the thought of buying a shirt made from the fabric…even if they mistakenly call it “denim.” Like all heritage workwear garments, there is a range of makers producing chambray goods of the highest quality. The most common use is on shirting, but occasionally brands will push the boat out with a chambray pant or jacket.

Here are our picks of some of the finest chambrays on the market:

Brave Star Selvedge Iron Horse 7.5 oz. Selvage Chambray Work Shirt

Available for $138 from Brave Star Selvage.

Iron Heart IHSH-21-BLU 10 oz. Japanese Chambray Workshirt

Available for $290 from Iron Heart America.

Pay Day Chambray Work Shirt Z42Z002

Available for $195 from Cockpit USA.

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