Heddels
Posts
Sept 4 - Denim Jacket Types - I&R

Sept 4 - Denim Jacket Types - I&R

David Shuck
September 04, 2024

Together with

Levi’s Denim Jacket Overview: Type I, II and III

Learn the difference between these three denim outerwear icons.

James Smith

If you’ve spent any time looking at denim jackets, you’ve probably noticed they’re often categorized: Type I, II, or III. This isn’t any quality grading or mean that one is superior to the other, but merely how denim enthusiasts refer to the order of the styles as big papa Levi’s produced them. (Hint: Type I came first).

If you’ve wondered what those types mean and which one might be for you, read on as we delve into Levi’s original three jackets and the many, many denim jackets they’ve inspired.

Blouse Beginnings

A Levi’s 1874 Triple Pleat Work Blouse via Loomstate

While this article is about the three formalized ‘types’ of Levi’s denim jackets, Levi’s first produced a riveted denim work jacket in the 1870s known as the Triple Pleat Blouse.

With a short, boxy fit, the Triple Pleat Work Blouse had two open pockets toward the hem and triple pleats that ran parallel to the button placket, the stitches of which could be removed to make the jacket looser. The pockets and lower sleeves were riveted and a cinch fastening was included on the rear.

Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1879 Triple Pleat Work Blouse, available for $451 from Cultizm.

Levi’s Type I Jacket

LVC reproduction of a 1936 Type 1 Denim Jacket, via Cultizm.

Onto the 1st of the legendary Levi’s trio — the Levi’s Type I jacket. This jacket first appeared in early 1905 and is identifiable by its 506XX lot number. Early models had no front pocket flap and prior to the iconic 1936 version, there was no Big “E” red tab anywhere on the jacket.

All Type I jackets also contain a pronged cinch-back or “clincher” located on the lower center of the back panel. These so-called “clinchers” used a sliver buckle dating from the early 1900s-late 1930s, but Levi’s started using bronze buckles to cut back on costs during wartime rationing in the 1940s.

Sliver clinch buckle (left). Donut hole buttons (right) were used during WWII as a method to save material (due to their hollow center)

Modern Type I Reproductions

Full Count Type I Selvedge Denim Jacket via Clutch Cafe.

Levi’s Vintage Clothing regularly produces reproductions of original Type 1 Denim jackets, and a plethora of Japanese makers make their own homages. Below you’ll find just a few of the many Type I style jackets on the market today.

Levi’s Type II Jacket

A killer vintage Type II jacket. Notice the short and boxy fit. Image via Long John.

In 1953, Levi’s produced a second interpretation of the Type I jacket, the 507XX, and yes — you guessed it right — it’s known as the “Type II”. The main changes made to this jacket from its predecessor are the two patch pockets with button flap closure and bar tack stitching for reinforcement. In addition, the cinch back was replaced by convenient dual waist adjusters.

/ In Partnership with Iron & Resin /

Iron & Resin’s Scout Jacket is For Life

If there’s one piece that defines Iron & Resin, it’s gotta be their Scout Jacket. A rough and tumbled take on the classic Type III trucker, but in a 12oz. British Millerain waxed canvas fabric, corduroy collar, and a blanket lining. Talon zip and button closure.

It’s hard on the elements but soft on you. And if you’re hard on it, Iron & Resin guarantees to repair or replace your Scout should it ever break down on you.

See it in all colors at Iron & Resin.

Want to see your name here? Send us an email at [email protected]

Waist adjuster (left) and bar tack Stitch (right)

Modern Type II Reproductions

Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1953 Type II Raw Selvedge Denim Jacket, available for $405 from Cultizm.

Levi’s stopped production on the Type II in the 1960s, but reproductions are available through the Levi’s Vintage Clothing line. Type II-centric jackets are available through Levi’s’ mainline. Just like the Type I, numerous Japanese and American heritage labels make the iconic style, including:

Levi’s Type III Jacket

LVC 1961 Type III via End Clothing (left) and vintage Levi’s Trucker via eBay (right).

Last but not least, we have the “Type III” Jacket, which is probably the most recognizable jacket style. During the early 1960s Levi’s introduced the 557 Jacket. Lot 557 or “Type III” only lasted a few years, from late 1961 to 1967. That was when Lot 557 changed to Lot 70505, aka “Trucker.”

The 557 series evolved to the 70505, 71205, and 70518 based on the 557 design. Some of the design changes are as follows: The Big ‘E’ Type III ranges from the 60’s – 71 and the Small ‘e’ Tab ranges from 72 – present. An alternative way to determine the difference in the period is by checking if there are two lower-hand pockets. If yes: mid 80s – present; if no: 60s-Mid 80s.

Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1961 Type III Jacket via End Clothing. Notice the slimmer fit than the Type I & II, as well as the higher chest pockets and knife seams.

Regardless of issue number, the Type III was a complete modification from the previous Levi’s jackets, coming in as the first jacket to feature the now famous pointed pocket flaps and pointed knife seams that follow the gently tapered silhouette.

Modern Type III Reproductions

Dawson Denim Type III Trucker Jacket

Levi’s still produces the Type III, now listing it simply as a Trucker Jacket. There are also a plethora of heritage brands reproducing various years and iterations of Levi’s design. Check out offerings from:

If you’d like a deeper dive into all of the above, have a look at our in-depth vintage guide that can show you the year-by-year updates to all Levi’s denim jackets.