Robin Egg Blue – All About Turquoise & Its Relevance In Heritage Fashion

We dive into turquoise, covering its history, different qualities, and why the precious stone is relevant in heritage & Americana culture.

Daniel Rockburn

Everyone knows the blue-green gemstone, turquoise. Its distinct color can be spotted from a mile away. You’ve seen it inlaid in rings, pendants, bolo ties, squash blossom necklaces, conchos, studs, and more. It dots the hands and necks of those devoted to Southwestern Americana aesthetics. But its story reaches far beyond our corner of the world. Though this beautifully teal-hued gemstone often feels synonymous with vintage and heritage-inspired fashion, its history stretches much further.

So, why do we see turquoise so often in our niche? How long have humans been mining for, trading, and appreciating this whimsical stone? We’ll look to answer those questions and more in this article.

What is Turquoise?

Turquoise is a blue-green copper-aluminum phosphate mineral that forms in arid, copper-rich landscapes, often within host rocks shaped hundreds of millions of years ago. Prized for its unique colour and easy tooling, turquoise has been traded for thousands of years, with artisans located around the world working the stone into wearable art, sculpture, and trinkets. Even King Tut’s burial mask is inlaid with the stuff.

Turquoise forms when meteoric water from rain or snowmelt combines and interacts with copper minerals in the earth. The stone’s generally soft quality makes it easy to cut and use in many different applications, with jewelry being a major one, as small pieces are easily formed into beads and inlay. Turquoise typically hits around 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale:

Different Types and Qualities of Turquoise

While the whimsical light/sky-bluey green is often the tone that comes to mind when you think of the word turquoise, the stone can actually be any color between emerald green and sky blue, and everything in between. The above image shows just some of the tones of turquoise that can appear.

Measuring the quality of a piece of turquoise is a broad subject, and it is one of the few precious stones that doesn’t have a dedicated grading system. The quality of turquoise is measured by assessing the color and texture of the stone, as well as the absence or presence of traces of its host rock. Known as the ‘matrix‘, these remnants of host rock are seen in the form of veins, splotches, or other shapes. While these indicate a generally “lower-quality” stone, they actually look fantastic and produce a gorgeous, one-of-a-kind pattern, unique to each and every stone. This is probably why you see veiny, textured stones used by Japanese designers who appreciate the wabi-sabi imperfections of these kinds of stones. Generally speaking, the most valuable turquoise is a hard, solid piece of vivid mid-to-sky blue stone — which is often called “robin’s egg blue” — with no matrix.

But there are also different treatments applied to turquoise to take it from its delicate, natural form to a consumer-ready product that can be worn or used to decorate something. Two common treatments are:

• Fats or waxes – Turquoise is often treated with fats, oils, or waxes to coat the stone and stop foreign bodies from entering its pores. This protects the stone and adds a lustrous sheen. This is a temporary treatment that may need re-applying at some point in the life of the stone.

• Stabilization – Soft, lower-quality turquoise is often ‘stabilized’ to improve its hardness and overall appearance. The stabilization process puts the stone under high pressure, causing it to absorb either epoxy resin or plastic into its pores. This makes these lower-quality stones harder, less porous, and more suitable for everyday use.

The cheapest and least recommended form of turquoise is ‘reconstituted’ turquoise. This is produced by taking lots of fragments of low-quality turquoise, grinding them into a powder, and binding the resulting powder with epoxy to create one large piece of reconstituted turquoise.

Caring for Turquoise

The relative softness of turquoise means it’s somewhat fragile and prone to damage and alteration; it must be properly cared for. Things to keep in mind when caring for turquoise are:

• Certain chemicals and solutions can affect the composition and appearance of the stone. Avoid products that contain hydrochloric acid, like harsher chemical cleaning products.

• Storing the stone among other jewelry or objects that can chip or scratch the surface of the stone is not advised.

• Turquoise can be washed with warm, natural, soapy water, but should be kept away from steam.

A Brief History of Turquoise

Turquoise was one of the first gemstones in history to be mined. Persia (modern-day Iran) was a key area for turquoise mining, with other less significant sources including parts of Eastern Europe, China, Tibet, Afghanistan, Australia, India, Chile, and more. Most of these mines have severely declined or depleted over time. In contrast, several turquoise mines in the southwestern United States have operated into the modern era. Turquoise reached Europe through Anatolian trade routes during the medieval period, where the French coined the term pierre turquois (“Turkish stone”). This gave rise to its modern name, which simply reflects the fact that turquoise entered Europe through Turkiye, rather than indicating its source country.

The oldest turquoise mines date back to  3000 BCE in Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula. The earliest recorded uses of turquoise were by the Egyptians, with uses of the stone being highly varied. Its decorative nature and protective qualities meant turquoise made its way onto amulets, beads, inlay in gold jewelry, stone sculptures, and tomb decorations (like King Tut’s tomb). Egyptians called the stone mekfat, meaning ‘joy‘, ‘delight‘. Turquoise’s bright blue and green hues became popular in Egyptian color schemes, and its rarity meant that the precious stone was greatly valued; thus, it became associated with wealth and royalty

The Aztecs traded turquoise with indigenous Americans and used it in ceremonial masks, weapons, armor, and jewelry, as a symbol of fire and a sign of distinction. The stone was inlaid in gold, coral, and other materials in various ways, including mosaic applications.

In Iran, turquoise has been mined for thousands of years, especially in the Nishapur region. It’s been used as decoration in jewelry, turbans, weapons, and armor, often etched with Arabic script. The Persian word for turquoise is pirouzeh, meaning “victory”, and the stone’s vibrancy portended a win or loss in times of war. Pure Persian turquoise is known for its smooth texture and aforementioned “robin’s egg blue” color, and sets the standard for the highest quality, with less desirable texture and color stones being devalued in comparison. Other,

After reaching Central Europe in the 13th/14th century, turquoise gradually gained popularity in Western jewelry, particularly during the late medieval and Renaissance periods. In many cultures, turquoise was admired for its vivid blue hues and was believed to offer protective qualities, including guarding against illness and misfortune.

The demand for turquoise around the world eventually created a market for synthetic, or imitation turquoise. Glass, plastic, clay, and more highly occurring stones were transformed with cutting, tumbling, and dying into products to recreate the look and feel of the stone. A gemologist or jeweler can perform tests on imitation gemstones to confirm their synthetic or imitative properties.

Turquoise in Native America

With so much turquoise naturally occurring in the region now known as the United States, many native indigenous tribes used (and still use) the stone in various applications, with jewelry being the best-known use. Native motifs and imagery have always had a place in American fashion, with patterned fabrics being utilized in many garments, feather designs in jewelry, ornate vintage and reproduction squash blossom necklaces, stone-inlaid rings, and more.

Modern-day states that have contained turquoise include California, Arizona, Nevada, and Colorado, but New Mexico is the oldest known source of USA-based turquoise mining. Only one mine in California (Apache Canyon) is in commercial operation today. Most American turquoise is considered to be a lower grade (especially when compared to its Persian counterparts) and is known as “chalk turquoise”. Turquoise in America is mostly found as smaller-sized veins or seam fillings between other rocks.

Indigenous tribes such as the Apache, Hopi, Navajo, Zuni, and many more have turned precious gems, stones, shells, and feathers into jewelry for thousands of years. Each tribe’s designs, motifs, and utilizations are distinct, but there are some commonalities. A lot of emphasis is put on the symbolic and spiritual nature of materials. Prior to colonization, indigenous people carved profoundly meaningful turquoise out of rock manually with stone tools.

Like the world’s various cultures, indigenous tribes have many beliefs and uses for turquoise. The Apache believed that turquoise inlaid in a bow (and even guns) would improve their accuracy and skills as warriors, and associated its blue with rain at the end of a rainbow. Hopi miners carried the stone to give them strength and security in their daily pursuits. The Navajo associated the stone with the blue of the sky and water, and kept in tune with the elements. They even used a “turquoise stick” in aid of finding water. The Zuni used turquoise in amulets and jewelry depicting idyllic figures. The Ojibwe Dream Catcher often contains a turquoise “Spider” bead that symbolizes Asibikaashi, a spider woman who returned the Ojibwe’s missing sun, with the Dream Catcher protecting Ojibwe children from dark dreams/nightmares.

The Navajo are among the best-known turquoise jewelers in the world, with the original silversmith, Navajo jeweler Atsidi Sani, learning to work with metals from Mexicans in the 1850s. Many of Sani’s ideas and motifs still exist to this day; eternally beautiful squash blossom necklaces and turquoise-inlaid rings were born out of Sani’s work and teachings.

Turquoise Today

Today, while not as naturally occurring as it once was, turquoise is plentiful. With all shapes and sizes of turquoise available to utilize in many different fashions. The occurrence of synthetic turquoise has devalued the stone somewhat, so it’s generally affordable, depending on its sourcing and application. The bright and beautiful blue stone remains desirable for its bold natural coloring, as it was in the past when the stone was less common.

Modern Egyptian, Iranian, and Indigenous American artisans now source their gemstones from all over, but the United States is where it’s most plentiful, with the only operational commercial turquoise mine left in the world.

Shop Indigenous

The main way that the heritage scene interacts with turquoise is through jewelry inspired by Native American designs, and sadly, no authentic indigenous makers have managed to make a name for themselves within a scene that appreciates their designs so dearly. This means it is incredibly important that if you are thinking about investing in some turquoise-imbued jewelry, you do your research and ensure that you are aware of the potentially indigenous and sacred roots of your purchase.

With that, here are some places to shop for turquoise goods from indigenous makers;

Shiprock Santa Fe

A native-owned gallery who have consulted legendary Japanese streetwear Visvim, Shiprock Santa Fe has a range of one-off vintage and native-made jewelry, including a bunch of gorgeous turquoise-adorned pieces. This site is updated regularly as pieces sell.

Above is a pin from Mike Bird-Romero, a Native Jeweler born in 1946. From a family of potters and textile artists, Bird-Romero taught himself metalwork to become a prominent designer of contemporary Native American-inspired jewelry. This pin is a typical example of Bird-Romero’s stellar work; a robust piece of sterling silver, adorned with precious stones, ornate forms, and charming carvings.

Available from Shiprock Santa Fe for $750

Four Winds Gallery

Four Winds Gallery, founded in 1974 by John and Carol Krena in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, is a gallery specializing in high-quality Native American art and jewelry from the Southwest. Owned by the Krenas and longtime collaborator Jody Vignale, it offers both antique and contemporary pieces while fostering close relationships with the artists they represent. The gallery aims to share the beauty, culture, and stories behind each work, creating a space where collectors and the public can connect with Native American creativity and heritage.

Vintage Navajo Blue Gem Turquoise Cluster Cuff, available for $2,200 from Four Winds Gallery.

Turquoise in Japan

Japanese silversmiths have taken to reproducing indigenous American art and jewelry to honor and continue tribal traditions. The pioneer of this movement was the late Goros Takahashi. Born in 1939 in Tokyo, Takahashi became fascinated with Native American design in postwar Japan after encountering pieces brought by American soldiers, so much so that he began crafting leather goods as a teenager. He later traveled to the USA to study Native American jewelry firsthand, harnessing traditional techniques that could be deployed with the utmost respect for their origins—including the use of turquoise. He returned to Japan as the country’s first officially sanctioned Native American–style silversmith, a move that would inspire a host of other makers to explore Native American jewelry.

First Arrow’s

The most prominent name in Japanese-made Native American-inspired jewelry nowadays is First Arrow’s. Founded by Japanese silversmith Kazuya Ito, First Arrow’s expertly crafted designs can’t be ignored when talking about modern indigenous-style jewelry reproductions.

Most of First Arrow’s jewelry is composed of 95/5 950 Silver/”classified metal”, the latter of which is kept a secret as the brand believes it leads to a unique patina. Turquoise features heavily in their collections.

First Arrow’s rings, available for $230 (left) and $430 (right) from Franklin and Poe.

Legend

Nao Yoshihara is a Japanese silversmith‑designer who personally handcrafts every piece for his brand Legend. Shaping Native-inspired sterling silver jewelry by hand in his studio in Japan, each Legend piece is truly unique, made by Yoshihara himself.  Legend is highly exclusive and only traded on a boutique‑level — pieces are only available by inquiry or through select retailers like Corlection.

Legend Mini “Flora” Pendant With Turquoise (P-168-TQ), available through enquiry at Corlection.

Munqa

Founded in 2010, Munqa is a tiny jewellery company from Japan, designed by the artist Muu. Each piece is carefully considered and has been hand-stamped and carved, rather than cast. Munqa uses the word “Newtive” to describe its work as a combination of “native” for the inspiration, and “New” for the addition of modern themes.

Munqa Jimi Broach, available for $285 from Clutch Cafe.

An Important Final Word

The reason turquoise is relevant to our niche is solely due to the reproduction of Native American jewelry designs. Jewelry sourced from American tribes, depicting American tribal imagery, motifs, and ideals, should be treated with the appropriate respect. Directly supporting native designers is of utmost importance when sourcing new jewelry, as the profound nature of each specific design can more easily be understood when being acquired by its maker, reducing the harm to indigenous people’s beliefs, identities, and cultures.

If you can’t find a design you like from a Native maker, consider requesting a custom from one, or consider donating to a charity that supports our Native population, like NAHA, if you do end up purchasing a reproduction design from a non-indigenous brand like First Arrow’s.

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