Raw Japanese Denim: A Beginner’s Guide to Japan’s Biggest Labels

We run down the most important Japanese denim labels, their most iconic jean silhouettes, and where to buy them.

James Smith

Stepping into the world of raw denim jeans can be a difficult process. Sizing, soaking, and sanforization—it’s all a different world compared to simply trying on a pair of jeans in the mall. But if this website is a testament to anything, it’s that raw denim jeans are worth it. And once you’ve gone raw, you’re very unlikely to return to ‘normal’ jeans anytime soon.

As you will have gathered, Japan is the raw denim capital of the world. The Japanese have truly mastered the art of weaving the finest raw selvedge denim and crafting five-pocket jeans, so it comes as no surprise that most of the big labels in the raw denim scene are from Japan. In addition to producing jeans of paramount quality, Japanese raw denim brands have a level of mystique and flair that makes their jeans covetable by denim heads worldwide.

Japanese raw denim labels have a cult following that springs to life in forums like Reddit and our very own Discord server. This can all be very useful when researching raw denim jeans, but to a beginner, it can feel like seasoned denim heads talk in a language of their own. “The s710xx is great, bro, a bit slimmer than Sugar Cane 1947s, but they’re 19oz and much slubbier!”

For this reason, we’ve compiled a quick-stop guide to the big names in raw Japanese denim. From Samurai to Studio D’Artisan, we’ve identified the most discussed Japanese denim labels and their most core models. We’ve formatted the list like an A-Z, and we hope it helps you on your quest for your new favorite selvedge denim jeans.

Japan’s Biggest Denim Labels A-Z

Burgus Plus

The in-house brand of Japanese denim and heritage superstore Hinoya, Burgus Plus offers high-quality, Japanese-made garments at an affordable price point. Started in 1997 by Osamu Taniguchi, Burgus Plus prides itself on ‘ultimate basics’ and takes inspiration from mid-century American garments. With this in mind, the brand offers a solid range of raw denim jeans and jackets in a variety of silhouettes.

Burgus Plus mainly uses mid-weight denim, including a 14.5 oz. natural indigo denim. If you want a slim or slim-straight jean, Burgus Plus will certainly have some options for you.

Burgus Plus Key Silhouettes

Lot. 771

Fit: Slim

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 15 oz. Raw Selvedge Denim

Notes: Goatskin leather waist patch, rivets, branded buttons

Available for $170 from HINOYA.

Lot.775 1960s

Fit: Straight leg

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 15 oz. Selvedge Denim

Notes: period-correct paper waist patch & zipper fly

Available for $190 from HINOYA.

955-xx

Fit: Slim Straight

Rise: low to mid

Fabric: 14.5oz. Natural Indigo woven from indigo rope-dyed American cotton (with beige weft for a deeper tone).

Details: Leather patch, leather rivet-backings, pink twill pocket bags

Available for $205 from HINOYA.

Full Count

One of the famed Osaka 5 that formed the Japanese denim scene in the late ’80s and early ’90s, Full Count is one of the most reputable Japanese denim labels out there. It was founded in 1993 by Mikiharu Tsujita, a Japanese denim legend involved in the creation of the influential brand, Evisu.

Full Count is known for its use of Zimbabwean extra-long-staple cotton in the production of its denim. This luxury fiber produces denim that is tough and durable but with a much softer hand. Tsujita believes that Zimbabwean cotton creates denim that emulates the American denim of the ’40s and ’50s – something that Full Count works so hard to reproduce.

Price-wise, Full Count is up there with the more expensive labels, but if it’s vintage-style denim you’re after, it doesn’t get much better than this.

Full Count Key Silhouettes

1108

Fit: Slim Straight dubbed ‘new straight.’

Rise: mid-high

Fabric: 13.75 oz. Zimbabwean cotton raw selvedge denim

Notes: Based on 1960s Levi’s 501 silhouettes, goatskin leather waist patch, custom hardware, made in Osaka, available in both raw and one wash variants

Available for $330 at Clutch Cafe

010

Fit: Wide straight

Rise: High

Fabric: 13.75 oz. Zimbabwean cotton raw selvedge denim

Notes: One of the wider raw denim jeans on the market, goatskin leather waist patch, custom hardware, made in Osaka, available in one wash or raw variants.

Available at Clutch Cafe from $330

1101W

Fit: Regular straight, mid-rise

Fabric: 13.75 oz. Zimbabwean cotton raw selvedge denim

Notes:  Goatskin leather waist patch, custom hardware, made in Osaka.

Available for $300 from Blue in Green.

Iron Heart

Initially founded in 2003 by Shinichi Haraki, Iron Heart appointed Englishman Giles Padmore in 2005 to manage their international sales. Soon after, Giles and Haraki formed a firm partnership that saw Iron Heart distributed widely in the Western world, with a head office in Portsmouth, England.

Iron Heart is known for its exceptionally built garments, but especially its heavyweight jeans that have seen the brand gain a cult following. The brand’s XHS 25 oz. denim is one of the heaviest on the market and is far from a gimmick. If you’re after slim jeans made from exclusive heavyweight raw denim fabrics, then Iron Heart won’t disappoint. You only have to check our Fade Friday features to see how these beastly jeans produce stunning, high-contrast fades.

Iron Heart Key Silhouettes

1955 Cut

Fit: Straight leg

Rise: High

Fabric: Various

Notes: Iron Heart’s newest fit, made in Japan, Iron Heart arcuates, chain stitch hems, custom hardware, leather waist patch

Available from $349 at Iron Heart.

IH-666

Fit: Slim straight

Rise: Low-medium

Fabric: Various

Notes: Made in Japan, Iron Heart arcuates, chain stitch hems, custom hardware, leather waist patch

Available from $349 at Iron Heart.

IH-555

Fit: Super slim Straight

Rise: Medium-high

Fabric: Various

Notes: Made in Japan, Iron Heart arcuates, chain stitch hems, custom hardware, leather waist patch

Available from $349 at Iron Heart.

IH-634

Fit: Straight

Rise: Medium

Fabric: Various

Notes: Made in Japan, Iron Heart arcuates, chain stitch hems, custom hardware, leather waist patch

Available from $349 at Iron Heart.

IH-888

Fit: Relax tapered

Rise: High

Fabric: Various

Notes: Made in Japan, Iron Heart arcuates, chain stitch hems, custom hardware, leather waist patch

Available from $349 at Iron Heart.

Japan Blue

Founded in 2010 by the folks at COLLECT Mills in Kojima, Japan Blue is just one of the brands under the ‘Japan Blue Group’ umbrella, which also includes iconic label Momotaro, and fashion labels Setto, Soulive. Japan Blue uses the vast experience of the COLLECT Mills to create contemporary products that blend heritage denim details with modern silhouettes.

Japan Blue jeans are highly affordable, fundamental raw denim jeans without all the bells and whistles. Their motto, ‘material is the key factor to jeans‘ says it all: solid fabrics in a range of weights, colors, and silhouettes. If you’re just starting out with raw denim, Japan Blue is definitely a good brand to break that indigo seal.

Japan Blue is known for its ‘Circle’ line of jeans, which feature a ‘curved’ waistband as opposed to a straight-cut waistband. This feature is designed to better fit the natural, tilted shape of the waistline. This construction sees jeans in the Circle line sit lower in the front and slightly higher at the hips and lower back.

Japan Blue Key Silhouettes

J501

Fit: Loose straight

Rise: High

Fabric: 14.8 oz. Japanese raw selvedge denim (sanforized)

Notes: Selvedge coin pocket, copper rivets, vegetable-tanned leather waist patch, custom-engraved donut button, 100% American cotton.

Circle Line option available for $210 at Redcast Heritage.

J301

Fit: Listed as ‘regular straight, but more of a slim straight

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 14.8 oz. Japanese raw selvedge denim (sanforized)

Notes: Selvedge coin pocket, copper rivets, vegetable-tanned leather waist patch, custom-engraved donut button, 100% American cotton.

Circle Line version available for $210 from Redcast Heritage.

J401

Fit: Classic Straight leg with a mid to high rise.

Fabric: 14.8 oz. Japanese raw selvedge denim (sanforized)

Notes: Selvedge coin pocket, copper rivets, vegetable-tanned leather waist patch, blue inseam stitch, 100% American cotton.

Circle line version available for $210 from Redcast Heritage.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro Jeans was founded in 2006 by Hisao Manabe, the head of Japan Blue Company. Hailing from Kojima, Japan, Momotaro Jeans is named after ‘Momotaro‘, a peach-boy character from Japanese folklore. The legend of Momotaro has it that Momotaro was born from a peach floating down a river. For this reason, Momotaro’s OG logo used their namesake featuring busting out of a peach (wearing jeans!).

Under the Japan Blue Group umbrella, Momotaro Jeans’ slogan is “made by hand, without compromise“. This motto rings true in the production of their jeans, which are handcrafted in the coastal district of Kojima to this very day. Momotaro jeans come in a range of fits, each using exclusive mid-weight denim that is woven on vintage Toyoda looms from Zimbabwean cotton.

Momotaro used to separate its denim goods into three different labels, Copper Label, Vintage Label, and Going To Battle; each with different fabrics and detail priorities. However, a recent restructure has seen a change in both branding and product organisation. In addition to a simplified peach logo, Momotaro denim goods are now structured into the following collections, each with its own range of fits:

• Classic – Vintage-inspired denim garb in 15.7 oz. selvedge denim, products in this collection feature Momotaro’s iconic ‘battle stripes’. Copper & lemon yellow stitching threads as a nod to vintage denim.

• Standard  – Modern and refined silhouettes with a contemporary edge. 14.7 oz. selvedge on men’s options and 11 oz. selvedge denim on womenswear. No pocket stripes.

• Exclusive – Rare and exclusive denims, including silk and cashmere selvedge denim.

• Natural Indigo –  Hyper-artisanal products made from hand-woven selvedge denim dyed with natural indigo

• 11 oz. Denim – Momotaro silhouettes in lightweight selvedge denim

*For indigo denim, all collections use Momtaro’s signature Tokuno Blue (特濃ブルー) dye, a deep indigo that yields notable fades.  

With silhouettes ranging from heavily tapered options to good ol’ straight leg, Momotaro is a globally successful denim brand that you can rely on for a solid pair of raw denim jeans.

Momotaro Key Silhouettes

Standard Collection #400 Wide

Fit: Wide straight

Rise: High

Fabric: Sanforized 14.7 oz raw selvedge denim dyed with Tokuno Blue deep indigo

Notes: 100% Zimbabwe cotton,  lined waistband for comfort and to prevent color transfer, peach selvedge ID, custom hardware, made in Japan.

Available for $330 from Redcast Heritage.

Standard Collection #100 Straight

Fit: Straight

Rise: Mid

Fabric: Sanforized 14.7 oz raw selvedge denim dyed with Tokuno Blue deep indigo

Notes: 100% Zimbabwe cotton,  lined waistband for comfort and to prevent color transfer, peach selvedge ID, custom hardware, made in Japan.

Available for $330 from Redcast Heritage.

Standard Collection #200 Tapered

Fit: Relax tapered (roomier top block and seat than a ‘slim tapered’ jeans)

Rise: High

Fabric: Sanforized 14.7 oz raw selvedge denim dyed with Tokuno Blue deep indigo

Notes: 100% Zimbabwe cotton,  lined waistband for comfort and to prevent color transfer, peach selvedge ID, custom hardware, made in Japan.

Available for $330 from Redcast Heritage.

Classic Collection #100 Classic Straight Jeans

Fit: Straight

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 15.7 oz raw selvedge, one washed to remove shrinkage

Notes: 100% organic Zimbabwe cotton, peach selvedge ID, iconic ‘battle stripes’ on rear pocket, rope dyed indigo, made in Japan.

Available for $290 from Redcast Heritage.

Classic Collection #300 Slim Jeans

Fit: Slim tapered

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 15.7 oz raw selvedge, one washed to remove shrinkage

Details: 100% organic Zimbabwe cotton, peach selvedge ID, iconic ‘battle stripes’ on rear pocket, rope dyed indigo, made in Japan.

Available for $290 from Redcast Heritage.

ONI

A brand shrouded in mystery, ONI is also named after a character from the Japanese legend of Momotaro. Japanese folklore describes that the peach boy Momotaro travelled to a mysterious island to battle an Oni, the Japanese term for a supernatural demon or ogre.

ONI was founded by Mr. Oishi, a prominent figure in Japanese denim who made his name working for Levi’s Japan and playing a part in establishing the early Japanese denim label, Canton Jeans. The brand is famed for its slubby, irregular, heavyweight denim that is genuinely unique, woven at low tension to produce a beautifully imperfect fabric with bundles of texture. If you want a pair of jeans with unrivalled character, ONI is definitely worth looking into.

ONI Key Silhouettes

288 Regular Straight

Fit: Relaxed straight

Rise: Mid to high

Fabric: Various

Available from $268 at Blue in Green.

200 Wide Straight

Fit: Wide straight

Rise: Mid to high

Fabric: Various

Available from $268 at Blue in Green.

222 Extra Wide Straight

Fit: Wide straight

Rise: Mid to high

Fabric: Various

Available from $268 at Blue in Green.

266 Relaxed Straight

Fit: Relaxed straight

Rise: High

Fabric: Various

Available from $268 at Blue in Green.

622 Relax Taper

Fit: Relaxed taper

Rise: Mid

Fabric: Various

Available from $310 at Blue in Green.

Pure Blue Japan

Seen as one of the most progressive and unique Japanese denim brands, Pure Blue Japan pushes the boundaries of raw denim with artisanal fabrics that look like no other in terms of color, texture, and weave. Based in Okayama, Pure Blue Japan has been operating since 1997.

The brand uses yarn-dyeing—a process where the cotton yarns are dyed prior to weaving—to create their raw denim, which is notorious for its slubby texture. Often abbreviated as PBJ, Pure Blue Japan specializes in slim, contemporary fits with a small hem opening. Each pair of PBJs features its iconic embroidered feather emblem on the back pocket. If you’re looking for a pair of heavily tapered jeans with heaps of fading potential, balling out on a pair of PBJs will leave you very satisfied.

Standard denim options (usually weighing around 14 oz.) are given the prefix ‘XX‘ before their silhouette code, i.e., “XX-019″, while special denims are given their own prefixes:

• SLB or WSB – Slub denim

• KS – Kasuri denim (warp yarns dyed to various hues of indigo)

• OL – Olive denim (sulfur-dyed warp yarns)

• OG – Organic cotton denim

• PER-EX – Persimmon (kakishibu) dyed weft yarns

• PBE – Beige weft yarns

• SMBL – Smokey blue denim

14 oz. XX jeans are typically available every year, with special editions being seasonal or limited editions

Pure Blue Japan Key Silhouettes

XX-013

Fit: Slim Tapered

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 14 oz. PBJ Original Slubby Japanese Selvedge Denim

Notes: Signature Pure Blue Japan leaf embroidery on back pocket, blue selvedge ID, HBT pocket bags

Available from Blue in Green for $326 and Redcast Heritage for $301

XX-019

Fit: Relax tapered (roomier top block than the XX-013)

Rise: High

Fabric: 14 oz. PBJ Original Slubby Japanese Selvedge Denim

Notes: Signature Pure Blue Japan leaf embroidery on back pocket, blue selvedge ID, HBT pocket bags

Available for $340 from Blue in Green.

XX-003

Fit: Slim straight

Rise: Mid to high

Fabric: 14 oz. PBJ Original Slubby Japanese Selvedge Denim

Notes: Signature Pure Blue Japan leaf embroidery on back pocket, blue selvedge ID, HBT pocket bags

Available for $340 from Franklin and Poe.

Samurai Jeans

Founded in 1997 by Toru Nogami (Nogami-san), Samurai Jeans is one of the most revered Japanese raw denim brands in the scene. Despite not being part of the initial raw denim boom pioneered by the Osaka 5, Samurai Jeans (also Osaka-based) has carved a reputation through its solid range of indigo goods that blend Americana influences with Japanese heritage.

The brand uses a range of fabric weights, with the core offering being their signature 19 0z. raw denim with silver selvedge ID, representing the Samurai’s sword. Samurai takes huge pride in the identity of their jeans, often conjuring up different rivet details, arcuates, and leather waist patches for each model.

If you’re looking for something heavyweight, robust, and distinctly Japanese, Samurai will tick those boxes and more.

Samurai Key Silhouettes

S710

Fit: Slim Straight

Fabric: 19 oz. Japanese exclusive raw selvedge denim

Details: Silver selvedge ID, goatskin leather waist patch, tonal back-pocket arcuates, red pocket tab, heavyweight twill pocket bags

Available for $355 at Franklin and Poe.

S510

Fit: Regular Straight (wider than the S5000 with a higher rise)

Fabric: 21 oz. exclusive raw selvedge denim

Details: Silver selvedge ID, goatskin leather waist patch, tonal back-pocket arcuates, red pocket tab, heavyweight twill pocket bags

Available for $388 from Franklin and Poe.

S5000

Fit: Regular Straight

Fabric: 21 oz. exclusive raw selvedge denim

Details: Silver selvedge ID, goatskin leather waist patch, tonal back-pocket arcuates, red pocket tab, heavyweight twill pocket bags

Available for $388 at Franklin and Poe.

Sugar Cane

Sitting under the Toyo Enterprise umbrella, Sugar Cane is a revered Japanese repro-denim label appreciated by denim heads across the globe. Guided by Yuichi Fukutomi, Sugar Cane has meticulously researched work and menswear of a bygone era to inform its thoroughly built reproductions down to the smallest details like stitch count and rivet placement.

Famed for their accessible 1947 cut jean that comes in around $200, Sugar Cane typically uses mid-weight, ringspun Japanese selvedge denim, woven on original narrow shuttle looms that were commonplace in the 1930s. In addition, the brand produces a unique, custom denim made from a 50/50 blend of cotton and actual sugar cane fibers that give the fabric a slubby, irregular texture

Sugar Cane Key Silhouettes

SC1947

Fit: Straight leg (1947 Levi’s 501 repro)

Rise: Mid to high

Fabric: 14oz. double ring-spun raw selvedge denim (unsanforized, one wash)

Notes: Meticulous reproduction, copper rivets, button fly, branded leather waist patch, pink selvedge ID

Available for $210 at Franklin and Poe.

Hawaii Jean

Fit: Regular straight (very close to the 1947 cut)

Rise: Mid to high

Fabric:  14.25 oz. Japanese one-wash selvedge, 50% cotton – 50% sugarcane fibers

Notes: Unique denim, hair-on horsehide Patch from Hawaii, ornate rear pocket embroidery

Available for $210 at Franklin and Poe.

1966

Fit: Regular straight with a gentle taper (roomier in the top block and with a smaller hem opening than the 1947)

Rise: High (slightly higher than the 1947)

Fabric: 14oz. double ring-spun raw selvedge denim (unsanforized, one wash)

Notes: Period-correct paper patch, pink selvedge ID, copper rivets

Available for $210 at Franklin and Poe.

2021 Slim Tapered

Fit: Slim tapered

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 14oz. double ring-spun raw selvedge denim (unsanforized, one wash)

Notes: Slimmest Sugar Cane fit, leather waist patch, copper rivets, button fly, branded leather waist patch, pink selvedge ID

Available for $210 at Franklin and Poe.

Studio D’Artisan

Part of the famed Osaka 5, Studio D’Artisan is a pillar of the Japanese denim scene. As well as world-class selvedge denim products, SDA offers high-quality apparel with its infamous buta (pig) branding. Studio d’Artisan manages to balance heritage designs with light-hearted details that breathe a new lease of life into archetypal mid-century designs.

Founded in 1979, Studio D’Artisan was the first Japanese denim label to use deadstock hardware on its jeans and the first to create shuttle loom-woven hank dyed jeans in Japan. Today, the brand offers a wide range of jeans, ranging from super slim all the way to wide-straight.

Studio D’Artisan Key Silhouettes

D-01 “The Origin” 15oz Regular Straight Jeans

Fit: Straight leg

Rise: High

Fabric: 15 oz. Hank Dyed Natural Indigo Japanese selvedge denim

Notes: First Studio D’Artisan model, natural indigo denim with an artisanal dyeing process, SDA arcuates, cinch back

Available for $417 at Redcast Heritage.

SD-107

Fit: Tight straight

Rise: Low

Fabric: 15 oz. unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim

Details: Contemporary fit, button fly, branded leather waist patch, woven coin pocket tab, blue selvedge ID

Available for $200 at HINOYA.

SD-103

Fit: Tight straight

Rise: Mid to high

Fabric: 15 oz. unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim (usually available one washed to remove shrinkage)

Notes: Button fly, branded leather waist patch, woven coin pocket tab, blue selvedge ID, iconic SDA arcuates

Available for $237 at Redcast Heritage.

SD-101

Fit: Regular Straight

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 15 oz. unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim (usually available one washed to remove shrinkage)

Notes: Button fly, branded leather waist patch, woven coin pocket tab, blue selvedge ID

Available for $274 at Redcast Heritage.

The Flat Head

Founded in Nagano Prefecture, Japan, in 1996, The Flat Head is a no-expenses-spared love affair with Americana-style clothing. Brand director Kobayashi-san has a rich history of dealing with American denim and has honed his knowledge to create some of the most reputable raw denim jeans on the market. Kobayashi insists on paramount quality within each step of the brand’s production process, resulting in raw denim jeans that are built to last and age beautifully. Kobayashi has famously stated:

The Flat Head specializes in slimmer cuts, made from exclusive mid-weight denim that is famed for its potential to yield high-contrast fades. Each pair comes with a branded goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, and The Flat Head’s signature arcuates.

The Flat Head Key Silhouettes

8004 Wide Tapered

Fit: Wide Taper

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 18 oz. selvedge denim, one washed to remove shrinkage and woven to produce vertical fading patterns

Notes: Rope dyed warp yarns, goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, red selvedge ID

Available at Franklin and Poe for $325

3009

Fit: Regular straight

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 14.5oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim (will shrink 1.5″ in the waist and up to 3″ in the inseam with the first wash/soak)

Notes: Rope dyed warp yarns, goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, red selvedge ID

Available for $315 at Franklin & Poe.

3004

Fit: Straight tapered

Rise: High

Fabric: 14.5oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim (will shrink 1.5″ in the waist and up to 3″ in the inseam with the first wash/soak)

Notes: Zipper fly, Rope dyed warp yarns, goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, red selvedge ID

Available for $315 at Franklin and Poe.

300

Fit: Slim tapered

Rise: Low to mid

Fabric: 14.5oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim (will shrink 1.5″ in the waist and up to 3″ in the inseam with the first wash/soak)

Notes: Zipper fly, Rope dyed warp yarns, goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, red selvedge ID

Available for $315 at Franklin and Poe.

TCB

The youngest label in this guide, TCB is a Japanese denim label that has risen to success in the last decade. TCB— an abbreviation for both ‘taking care of business’ and ‘two cats brand’—was founded by Hajime Inoue in 2008. An ex-denim apprentice, Inoue-san used his knowledge of  Japanese denim craft and vintage American jeans to conceive his own brand. Today, TCB is known for its charming reproductions of classic American jeans, built with immense craftsmanship and Japanese flare.

What makes TCB so special is how small its range of jeans is. Separated into ’20s, ’50s, and ’60s styles, TCB has aimed to master the archetypal fits of those eras. If you’re after heavily tapered, contemporary jeans, TCB won’t be your solution. But if it’s high-quality, classic straight-legged jeans you’re interested in, TCB has got you covered.

TCB Key Silhouettes

50s

Fit: Regular straight (50s Levi’s 501 repro)

Rise: High

Fabric: 13.5 oz unsanforized raw selvedge denim (one washed to remove shrinkage)

Notes: Great price, charming reproduction product, paper waist patch, pink selvedge  ID, red pocket tab

Available for $232 at Redcast Heritage

60s

Fit: Slim straight (1960s Levi’s repro)

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 13 oz selvedge unsanforized denim, one washed to soften and remove shrinkage

Notes: Great price, charming reproduction product with period-correct paper waist patch, pink selvedge  ID, red pocket tab

Available for $243 at Redcast Heritage.

40s

Fit: Straight leg (1940s WWII Levi’s 501XX repro)

Rise: High

Fabric: 14 oz. unsanforized one-wash selvedge Japanese Denim (indigo warp, cream weft)

Notes: Faithful WWII reproduction product, leather waist patch, pink selvedge  ID, red pocket tab, slubby textured denim, steel rivets

Available for $274 at Redcast Heritage.

Warehouse & Co.

Warehouse & Co. was founded in 1995 by Kenichi and Koji Shiotani, making it the youngest of the Osaka 5 brands. Both Kenichi and Koji were previously involved with an incarnation of Evisu, but a difference in philosophy led them to depart and pursue their own denim dreams. They created Warehouse with the intention of faithfully producing vintage mid-century jeans, down to the last detail. They reinforced this philosophy with their motto—“The faithful reproduction of authentic vintage garments.”

Warehouse & Co. entered the denim industry with its Lot. 1001xx model raw denim jeans, which remain the brand’s calling card to this day. With a loose-straight fit that mirrors Levi’s 501XX jeans from the 1950s in terms of fabric and construction, the Lot. 1001 encapsulates the Shiotani brothers’ passion for vintage denim through period-correct details like iron buttons, copper rivets, a red rayon pocket tab, and curved rear pocket arcuates. The brand continues to make the Lot.1001, but treats it like Levi’s treated their 501, issuing it in different cuts and fabrics.

Warehouse Key Silhouettes

* In the same way Levi’s’ standard straight leg 501 model differs throughout each decade, Warehouse & Co. uses ‘1001’ as its flagship straight leg model, offering different iterations, e.g., 1001XX ‘1947 MODEL’. 

Lot 1001 (Duck Digger Label)

Fit: Straight leg (1947 Levi’s 501 repro)

Rise: Mid to high

Fabric: Warehouse & Co’s infamous “Banner Denim” – a blend of Tennessee, Texas, and Arizona cotton — 13.5 oz. selvedge denim (one wash)

Notes: Yellow selvedge ID, copper rivets, iron buttons, Duck Digger pocket arcuates, button fly

Available for $310 from Clutch Cafe.

Lot 800

Fit: Slim straight

Rise: Mid

Fabric: Propietary 14.5 oz. raw selvedge denim (one wash, but also available in raw), 100% single origin Memphis cotton

Notes: Yellow selvedge ID, steel rivets, neppy irregular fabric, deerskin leather patch, modelled after a 1950s silhouette

Available for $320 from Clutch Cafe.

Lot 900

Fit: Slim tapered

Rise: Mid

Fabric: 13.5 oz. raw selvedge denim

Notes: Yellow selvedge ID, copper rivets, iron buttons,  denim made from a blend of Memphis cotton from the U.S.A.

Available for $185 from Lost & Found.

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