How To Break in a New Pair of Raw Denim

We discuss six of the best ways to break in an uncomfortable new pair of raw denim jeans in this how-to guide.

Austin Bryant

Aside from amazing fades, raw denim also has a well-deserved reputation for the difficulty of its break-in period. As the weight goes up, it only gets tougher and tougher to get to that “sweet spot” where the jeans begin to really feel like a second skin.

Of course, all denim is different. Some fabric is known for being exceptionally supple out of the gate. However, others, like the heavyweight pairs from Naked & Famous, can be likened to wearing a starched potato sack on your legs for the first couple of days (or weeks).

We’ve put together this guide to share some ideas on how to break in that new pair of raws, especially for those who may be new to the niche. We’ve included information on how different types of raw denim (sanforized, loomstate, etc.) will affect the break-in period, as well as how ‘one-washed’ denim will feel at first.

How Denim Processing Affects Break-In Periods – Sanforization & One Washing

Truly raw denim is getting harder to find these days. Much of the loomstate/unsanforized denim on the market is now one-washed. One-washing is where the finished garment is washed once by the manufacturer, pre-retail. This is done to remove shrinkage and make denim garments more comfortable from the first wear.

One-wash raw denim is still classified as raw denim by most retailers and, in most cases, it will still be somewhat stiff upon purchase. That said, one-washing absolutely removes much of the graft of classically raw denim when it comes to the break-in process. Purists will say that one-wash denim isn’t raw, which is technically true, but it doesn’t mean that newcomers to the niche won’t be surprised at how stiff a pair of one-wash jeans can be.

Sanforized raw denim, on the other hand, is typically stiff as hell at the start, if it hasn’t been one-washed. Sanforization uses heat and steam to shrink the raw denim fabric, not a full soak in water. This process is applicable to the raw denim fabric, not the garment. If you buy sanforized raw denim that hasn’t been one-washed, expect a break-in period.

The chart below summarizes the general rules of these principles:

1. Ride a Bike

This is probably the most popular and immediately effective way to quickly break in a pair of raw denim. The constant motion of the legs is a sure-fire way to create crazy honeycombs, and the constant sitting position will open up the top block of the jeans nicely.

The only downside to this strategy is that cycling is a tried and true way to cause an early crotch blowout. Proceed with caution, especially if your pair of raws is super skinny or has a low rise.

2. Lunges

This probably harkens back to the prevalence of skinny jeans, but for the slimmer fits of raw denim, this still applies. By doing some quick deep lunges around your apartment/backyard/bedroom (but please, not in public), the knees tend to open up along with the seat and crotch of the jeans.

Like we mentioned before, not everyone owns a bicycle. Doing lunges is a cheaper, but also significantly more ridiculous-looking option. Being a fresh pair, don’t worry about insta-tearing your crotch open, unless the pair is already super-tight. In that case, you may want to proceed carefully with all forms of break-in and consider the size you took.

3. Soak Your Jeans

Not everyone will want to immediately soak their jeans, but for those who are willing to sacrifice some immediate fades, soaking is probably the best way to expedite break-in. After giving them an initial cold soak, let them air dry out to a slightly damp level. At that close-but-not-completely-dry stage, put the jeans on and go about your day. Be mindful that this will lead to crocking.

Not only will the damp fibers stretch more easily, but the pair will also conform to your body. Known primarily as the initial step for those buying unsanforized denim, a quick soak can do wonders for jeans that are uncomfortable off-the-bat.

4. Wear the Jeans to Bed

This definitely falls on the “slightly crazy” side of the spectrum, but it’s not unheard of in the lore of raw denim. For those who move around a lot when they sleep, this is certainly a way to etch your movements into your denim. Just make sure your sheets are a darker color; nobody wants blue streaks all over their bed.

4. Wear Around the House

Wearing your new raws around the house for a couple of days before wearing them out is a good way to get the worst of the break-in period out of the way in the safety of your own home. No special rituals here, just put them on whilst you’re doing your normal daily activities.

If the waist is super tight or you want to expedite the waist stretching, you can spritz it with some water using a spray bottle. This shouldn’t be necessary, though, and could mean you’ve bought the wrong size.

While this option may seem obvious, it’s important to note that all raw denim wearers can just jump on a bike or lunge (see below), therefore this is a nice and inclusive blanket option that’s accessible to all.

5. Live Your Life (Not at Your Desk)

While the simplest suggestion, this is likely the least stressful. People tend to overthink the process of breaking in and fading their raw denim to oblivion. For that reason, sometimes just forgetting about what steps to take and just wearing them is the best way to go.

Get on your knees while fixing your bike (or finding that remote under the couch). Take the stairs at work and not the elevator. Don’t be afraid to sit on the ground and get your jeans a little dirty. Raw denim is supposed to show the marks you leave on it; how can that happen if you’re glued to a chair every day?

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