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What is a Chain Stitch? Difference Between Chain  & Lock Stitches

We break down the differences between chain stitch and lock stitch, and why these methods are used in garment construction.

Nick Coe

The infamous chain stitch. What’s all the fuss about?  Why do some make such a big deal out of it while others could care less?  Unfortunately, there is no cookie-cutter answer here. The easiest way to go through the advantages and disadvantages of chain stitching and lock stitching is probably to do just that in point form.

Chain Stitch

Chain stitching is a form of mechanical stitching technique historically used to construct garments that are common in our niche such as five-pocket jeans, work shirts, chinos, and more. On quality, heritage-inspired jeans, chain stitching will often be used on the hems (see: lead image of this article), yoke, and waistband. On certain work shirts, chain stitching can be found throughout or limited to the side seams, which is sometimes indicated by chain stitch ‘run off‘.

The Union Special 43200G is a famous chain stitching machine used by many selvedge denim brands to imbue their products with historic detailing.

Advantages of the Chain stitch

• More authentic and original when used on heritage garments

• Better “roping” effects (i.e. twisted, rope-like look on hems)

Disadvantages of the Chain stitch

• Not as accessible or easily done (since chain stitching can only be done on a special sewing machine)

• Can unravel easier than other mechanical stitches

• Only noticeable on the inside of a garment (i.e. after you cuff)

• Not as strong as lock stitching

Lock Stitch

Lock stitching is the most common mechanical stitch in the garment industry. It is quick and strong, but doesn’t have the level of visual appeal or historical.

Take your jeans to a run-of-the-mill tailor and they will most likely use a lock stitch to hem them. If you don’t live near a denim specialist with a Union Special or other chain stitch machine, you can always send your jeans to someone who does.

Advantages of the Lock Stitch

• Much cheaper

• Can be more robust than a chain stitch

• More accessible, most tailors will have a lock stitch machine and you can easily learn to do this yourself.

• Less bulky than a chain stitch (more relevant on shirting)

Disadvantages of the Lock Stitch

• Aesthetically messier on some garments

• Less historical detail

• Less appealing to some due to weaker “roping” effect

• No run off on shirting, if historical detailing is your thing

If you found this helpful and want to learn more, check out Know Your Terminology: Overlock Stitch vs. Flat-Felled Seam