What is Melton Wool? On the Toughest and Arguably Warmest Woolen

You've seen it on pea coats, duffel coats, and more, but what exactly is this melton stuff, how is it made, and where did it come from?

James Smith

There’s denim, there’s selvedge denim. There’s leather, there’s shell cordovan leather. There’s wool, and then there’s Melton Wool. When it comes to woolen cloth, Melton wool is among the most robust and sought-after. Due to its thick, dense weave, Melton wool is often deployed on archetypal naval garments like CPO shirts and peacoats, as well as other hardwearing garments in the spectrum of vintage workwear.

But what makes Melton wool so, Melton? To answer that question, we’re taking a moment to shine the spotlight on the mighty Melton and how it got so darn thick.

What is Melton Wool?

Melton wool is a cloth made of wool that’s woven in a twill form. Typically thick and rigid with a fuzzy surface, Melton wool is often used to make more robust and substantial products like outerwear and blankets.

Because of its dense, quasi-felted texture, Melton wool frays minimally or not at all. As well as being super warm, it also has water-wicking properties and is fairly wind-resistant, making it the most weatherproof of all woolen cloths.

How Is Melton Wool Made?

Melton wool is made by weaving strong wool yarns into a dense twill and then ‘fulling’ it. ‘Fulling’ is a wool-making process that eliminates oils, dirt, and other impurities, as well as making the resulting fabric much thicker. Fulling involves two processes: scouring and milling. Scouring is a treatment process that removes all wool contaminants like oil and dirt from the fabric, while milling (also known as thickening) increases the thickness and compactness of woven or knitted wool by subjecting it to moisture, heat, and friction. In ancient times, fulling was carried out by the pounding of the woolen cloth with a club, or even with the fuller’s feet or hands. After fulling, the fabric is shaved to achieve a uniform

A Brief History of Melton Wool

The history of Melton wool-making goes back centuries in England, Scotland, and Wales. Melton wool was first produced in the Leicestershire town of Melton Mowbray. At the time, this small East Midlands town was the national hotspot for fox-hunting and other outdoor sports. The weatherproof qualities of Melton wool made it the ideal cloth for producing hunting jackets, including the archetypal scarlet and black fox hunting jacket.

Melton Mowbray and its surrounding areas became a hub for wool production, and the recipe for Melton wool spread far and wide across the British Isles. The name Melton wool stuck, though, and that humble little town remains the namesake of one of the toughest fabrics out there to this very day.

How to Maintain Melton Wool]

Store Safely

Melton wool makes the ideal home for moths, which is the last thing you want. Be sure to store your melton wool garments on a high-quality wooden knitwear hanger. A garment bag is also advisable for moth and dust protection.

Division Road 11 oz. Oxford Garment Bag, available for $40 exclusively from Division Road.

Spot Clean / Dry Clean / Steam

Melton wool is so heavy that it typically doesn’t fare well in the washing machine. As such, we would only recommend spot cleaning or using a dry cleaning service if your Melton garment is soiled.

If you have a garment steamer, use it to steam your Melton wool clothing every 10-15 wears. Steam will be able to address any mild creases and plump the fabric, whilst killing bacteria or any pesky moth eggs that may have got into the garment.

Products Featuring Melton Wool

Hiroshi Kato Anvil Shirt – Melton Wool

Available for $388 from Hiroshi Kato.

Dehen 1920 Crissman Overshirt Wool Granite

Available for $395 from Brooklyn Clothing.

Buzz Rickson’s BR11554 Pea-Coat “Naval Clothing Factory” – Navy

Available from Franklin and Poe for $650.

Dehen 1920 Weekender Jacket – Melton Wool Twill – Oregon Plaid

Available for $575 at Division Road.

Whitesville  30 oz. Wool Melton Award Jacket

Available at HINOYA for $550.

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