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Under the CPO – The Quintessential Shirt Jacket

CPO might sound like a rejected Star Wars droid, but it's one of the most iconic and wearable pieces of US Navy uniform ever.

James Smith

Even though it was initially issued to U.S. Navy Chief Petty Officers, there’s nothing petty about the CPO shirt. It’s a cold-weather classic crafted from thick wool, designed to be a layer of armor for officers on cold-weather work duty in the 1930s. Like many utilitarian garments, the CPO shirt has transcended its military roots and earned its place in contemporary wardrobes.

A timelessly rugged staple, the CPO has seen a healthy resurgence in the last ten years or so. This article shines the spotlight on the CPO, taking a look at its rich history and some of the best CPOs on the market today.

What is a CPO Shirt?

An archetypal CPO shirt is navy in color and has either one or two flap-closure patch chest pockets. Original 1930s issue CPO shirts feature a singular chest pocket with a scalloped flap. Robust, tonal buttons run down the main placket, cuffs, and pockets, and these buttons often feature an embossed anchor representing the shirt’s nautical heritage.

Some modern-day renditions of the CPO shirt may differ from the blueprint set out by the originals, but you can always look to brands like Buzz Rickson’s or The Real McCoy’s for a meticulous, period-accurate reproduction.

/ In Partnership with Meermin /

Cap Off Your Footwear Rotatation with Meermin’s 514667 Boot in CF Stead Oiled Crossboard

All leather boots grow in texture as you wear them, but some are imbued with additional grain or character off the bat. Falling into this category is Meermin's 514667 Cap Toe Boot, which has been rendered in a crossboard edition of C.F. Stead‘s oiled shoulder leather.

What’s Crossboard, you ask? Well, it’s a form of crossgrain leather, which is basically where a texture is imprinted onto the hide as the leather is tanned. As well as adding instant visual appeal, this treatment is typically paired with a gloss or oil coating that provides water resistance, an effect bolstered by the little debossed channels created by the geometric imprint. In this instance, C.F. Stead has imprinted a ‘crossboard’ imprint onto their oiled shoulder leather in a rich brown ‘polo’ brown, making this edition of Meermin’s 514667 Cap Toe boot a compelling option for your fall/winter footwear arsenal.

Available at Meermin for $280.

History of the CPO Shirt

The CPO shirt was introduced to the U.S. Navy in the 1930s, initially assigned to Chief Petty Officers (CPOs). Officially titled “Shirt, Wool, Blue”, the CPO was cut from a warm, robust, navy wool flannel with a roomy fit that allowed officers to wear it over their chunky knits and thermals as an outerwear piece. The overshirt was eventually worn by standard naval officers and favored by sailors for its cozy, hard-wearing material.

Issued in scores throughout World War II, the CPO shirt underwent minimal changes to its silhouette, except for the addition of an extra chest pocket in the late 1940s. The dual-pocket version was used from the late 1940s onwards until the CPO was phased out by the late 1960s. And while the date of its removal from the US Naval uniform is ambiguous, it is a fact that procurement moved away from 100 % wool shirts for general issue, most likely due to fabric innovation and cost.

The CPO is arguably a perfect piece of utilitarian outerwear. So perfect that discharged naval officers continued to wear their CPO shirts after they were discharged from service, which introduced the piece to the civilian population of the United States. Readily available in Army/Navy surplus stores, it didn’t take long for the CPO shirt to become a civilian favorite.

The popularity of the CPO shirt grew in the post-war decades, peaking in the 60s and 70s. During these eras, the CPO shirt was a menswear staple, although it was typically the later version with two square-edged flap pockets, not the original issue one-pocket model.

In the States, the CPO was even sold by big-name American retailers like Sears and Roebuck, J. C. Penney, and Montgomery Ward. Big retailers offered CPO-style shirts in multiple colors, even various plaids and jacquard patterns. Though some mid-century renditions of the CPO shirt were a far cry from their military ancestors in terms of style and construction, there’s no questioning the tangible influence that the CPO shirt has had on the world of men’s fashion.

CPO Shirts On The Market Today

Buzz Rickson’s BR24961 C.P.O. Shirt “Naval Clothing Factory”

Available for $265 from Franklin & Poe.

Cockpit USA Navy Chief Petty Officer Shirt

Available for $325 from Cockpit USA.

Schott CPO Wool Shirt

Available from Stag Provisions for $120

Burgus Plus Wool CPO Jacket – BP25902

Available from Sun House for $230.

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