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May 22 - Staff Selects Chinos

Staff Selects - Chinos, Pants, & Fatigues

May 22, 2023

The Heddels Fatigue Pant Guide 2023

The Heddels team exhibit their tried-and-tested non-denim pants in this edition of Staff Select. 

Daniel Rockburn  |  May 22, 2023

Staff Select – Chinos, Pants, & Fatigues

Believe it or not, we’re not always wearing jeans at Heddels. Most of us think it’s wise to have a couple of non-denim pairs of pants/trousers in the mix to keep things interesting. Some of us wear pants/trousers all the time and let our torsos do the denim work.But what pants do we go for? Traditional chinos? Fatigues? Modern workwear? Are we all-in on khaki, or is there some other hues that are enough of a change from denim, without feeling too different?In this edition of Staff Select, we’re going to be showing you our choices of non-denim pants, showing you what works for us and why. Why trust us? Well, we’ve all been in the game long enough to have field-tested a range of quality clothing, and the Heddels operation puts us onto some of the best clothing in the world week in, week out. While our opinions and experiences shouldn’t be taken as definitive, this series will provide you insight into what has worked for us and why.

  Ben – Vintage Army Issue Chinos

By far the pants/ chinos I rely on most are my  WWII/Korean War Khakis. A staple during war times and instantly integrated as GI’s returned home, military khakis are as ‘Americana’ as anything else you can think of, and for good reason.These are pants I love to wear because of their truly classic shape – higher-waisted, straight cut, and wide. They fit with anything and everything in my wardrobe, looking great crispy but just as good — if not better — when wrinkled stained, ripped, & repaired. Thanks to their complimentary shape and approachability, I think everyone should own a pair if they can track one down.I’m not an expert by any measure but know the pair I’m submitting is from WWII as they came out of an estate of a WWII veteran, and were accompanied by other pieces of enlisted clothing. They come with long thin belt loops (suitable for Garrison Belts) which are simply beautiful, a button fly that will never give up on you, and 5 pockets that can handle anything they’re tasked with holding. No wonder every brand under the sun bases their “chino” off these.  

Daniel – Buzz Rickson’s 1942 U.S. Army Chinos

Staff-Select---Chinos-&-Fatigues-Daniel---Buzz-Rickson's-1942-U.S.-Army-Chinos

Image via SundayMy flavor of chinos is traditional — in both style and fit — hence why I really like the Buzz Rickson’s 1942 U.S. Army Chino. I even have two pairs – Khaki and the “Very Black” William Gibson collection chinos. The whole silhouette is wide, from the waist to the hem, making for a super comfortable fit. With my trunk legs, a roomy fit is a requirement.They make for a nearly perfect contrast to a denim jacket or any kind of indigo-dipped top. For example, a Type I Jacket, paired with a white tee and some nice leather shoes or vintage-style sneakers and you’re looking good. I’ve found a slightly cropped hem looks best for me with how I style these, but I think they look great with a break on the shoe, or cuffed.I’ll keep buying Japanese-made military reproduction style chinos until I die… they’re way more comfortable and better looking than the department store workwear I’ve worn in the past, and age much more nicely. I’ve had both of my chinos for a couple of years now and they’ve held up extremely well with multiple washes and tons of wear.Available from Hinoya for $126

 

James – orSlow U.S. Army Fatigue Pants (Regular Fit)

 

The-Heddels-Fatigue-Pant-Guide-2023-orSlow-US-Army-Fatigue-Pants-Used-Wash-Regular-Fit--Green-Used---Canoe-Club

I’m a fat man — fat being short for fatigue. My life is fifty shades of olive drab, and I won’t ever change.I own a fair few pairs of olive green fatigue pants, and whilst these orSlow ones aren’t necessarily my favorite pair in terms of fit, they’re the ones that get the most wear and I think they have the best fabric, construction, and accessibility. They’re made in Japan from a 100% cotton sateen which, in my view, is that goldilocks just-right shade of olive drab, especially in the ‘used wash’ that I own (pictured above).Everything you need to know about these bad boys — and basically anything you need to know to invest in a high-quality fatigue pants — can be found over at the Heddels Fatigue Pant Guide 2023.Available from Canoe Club for $268. 

Nav – Needles H.D Fatigue Pant

 

Once I find an item I like and that pairs with pretty much everything else in my wardrobe, it’s very tough for me not to wear it on a daily basis. Around 6 years ago, I found myself on the hunt for jeans/pants with a wider hem width than I had previously been rocking, my minimum requirement back then was around 24cm.I stumbled across a photo of someone wearing a pair of Needles H.D Fatigue pants and my mind was blown. I knew immediately that once I managed to cop I had found my trouser soul mate.I have these in 3 colors but my most worn color and indeed most worn pant is the Green, I’ve had these for around 4 years and there literally is not a single thing I don’t like about them, I wore them so much that I started to get blow outs in the usual spots so they’ve been repaired in a few places which gives them even more character and will hopefully make them last for as long as possible.The problem I have now is trying to wear any other silhouette and ween myself off of the balloon shape but I think the wide life chose me and I’m not mad at it all.Available from Hinoya for $160 

Will – orSlow’s M-52 French Army Trouser

Staff-Select---Chinos-&-Fatigues-Will---orSlow's-M-52-French-Army-Trouser

Image via Unexpected Store

orSlow

’s M-52 wide-fit pants are not just any wide-fit pants; they are a veritable ode to freedom, liberation, with a buffet-friendly waistline.

Crafted in Japan from a vintage French twill, the pants are based on the trousers adopted by the French army in 1952, as the name ‘M-52’ suggests. They feature a classic wide leg; although they called jsut be referred to as a ‘straight’ leg, a button fly with a shallow tuck, twin side pockets, and two button flap pockets on the back.

These pants were my first foray into the world of wide-fitting pants. Some people like to rip the bandaid off and go 

wide

(Hey, Nav

)

 but I opted to ease myself into the trend. I’d recommend these to anyone looking to go against the grain and break free from the shackles of conformity.

They look excellent with just about anything, whether it’s turned up with a cheeky bit of ankle showing over some black derbies, or left untucked over a buttery pair of black horse-bit loafers. Me? I tend to rock them with a one-inch cuff over some grey New Balance 990s; simple and clean.

I’m not going to start monotonously preaching about the quality. It’s orSlow; you’re going to get a good quality, robust pair of pants every time. What I will say, though, is I wish they did them in navy. Unfortunately, they only come in black and beige, which is a shame.

Available from 

 for $270.

Zach – Evil Denim 1920s Vintage Reproduction Chinos

Buckles on clothing are evocative of the classics. From buckle-back jeans to Type I denim jackets, there’s just something intriguing about the juxtaposition of fabric and metal. A personal crusade to bring back 1920s-style in the 2020s has been partially fulfilled, but I was missing something for Spring and Summer. I was then naturally excited to find a buckle-back chino!Evil Denim created their chinos from a style that was popular on the American West Coast during the Jazz Age. From pockets to button-fly, these are a faithful tribute.If you value more traditional fits, you’ll be satisfied. Waist sizes are closer to your true, natural waist measurement. The fit of the legs is more relaxed, which is a plus in hot weather. The fabric itself is a lightweight khaki cotton twill, but long as you aren’t performing stunts in a silent movie or dancing the “Charleston” for hours on end, these chinos should last.Available from sneakytiki on Etsy for $90 plus shipping.

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