Suave Motorcyclists: Workwear That May Revitalize a Subculture Part 2

*Part 1 can be found here. 

Zach Liollio  |  May 1, 2023

International Romance

Germany sparked a revolution in the motorcycle market and America spearheaded the campaign for new, adventurous roads.The final, important ingredient was provided by Great Britain: eclectic flair. As demonstrated in period catalogs and photos, early motorcyclists were a cultural mashup. The jodhpurs (breeches) and puttees were heavily inspired by the military dress in India, which in turn became horseback riding attire in the West.The transition from reins to handlebars was subsequently effortless. 

British-Indian troops serving in Africa, ca. 1900. The enlisted men are wearing cloth puttees while the officer, second from right in the white pith helmet, appears to be wearing puttees made from leather. All appear to have jodhpurs. Image via Wikipedia. 

Just as traditional Indian dress has influenced motorcycling, motorcycling has influenced India. There is a huge there demand for vintage Brit bikes as established manufacturers from the U.K. are expanding their markets.In fact, the international market for all classic vehicles is anticipated to grow significantly by the late 2020s. 

British and American manufacturers have taken their bikes abroad for a long time. Taken in 1936, this image shows the first Harley-Davidson EL “Knucklehead” exported to Japan. Image via The Vintagent. 

Life Eternal

Few military men come close to the notoriety of Colonel T. E. Lawrence, better known as “Lawrence of Arabia.” Officer, gentleman, war hero, writer, mechanic, archaeologist — there are many ways to describe his life but his love of motorcycles is remembered by gearheads across the globe. He owned a total of eight Brough Superior bikes which were the first true superbikes designed by fellow legend George Brough. Tragically, a motorcycle accident took Lawrence’s life in 1935 when he swerved to avoid several pedestrians. As he struggled for six days to stay alive with severe head trauma, the legend’s early demise at 46 years old affected the attending surgeon deeply. Dr. Hugh Cairns then answered a calling.The research that he conducted following the accident gave rise to crash helmets that have saved countless lives since. 

Colonel T. E. Lawrence, the immortal “Lawrence of Arabia,” is seen in uniform on the back of a Brough Superior SS100. To the left is George Brough, the builder. Note the wool puttees (which were typically worn by enlisted men) and shag mittens. Image via Andrew Jones/Web Bike World. 

Lawrence was a Renaissance man in love with life. Winston Churchill, among other prominent public figures, attended his funeral; Churchill remarked:“[His] pace was faster and more intense than what is normal.” Indeed, the 1962 epic film Lawrence of Arabia is the ultimate tribute to fast and intense.The opening sequence suggests that, though cut tragically short, Lawrence’s life had reached the pinnacle of happiness behind the throttle of his Brough Superior. 

T. E. Lawrence was a major influence on actor Steve McQueen. The Great Escape (1963) showcases McQueen’s riding prowess playing a prisoner-of-war trying to escape German forces (the actual Great Escape didn’t feature any motorcycle chases.) McQueen rides a British-made TT Special 650 Triumph in the film, modified to look like a German military BMW bike. Image via United Artists. 

Riding is a Social Sport

After World War I, motorcycle makers wanted to bring their bikes to the great outdoors. The 1920s were an age of leisure and self-expression set free by the automobile. Image via Motorcycle and Bicycle Illustrated. 

Motorsports had become an American institution in the Roaring Twenties. Both competitive and noncompetitive, the variety and sanity of these events spanned a large spectrum but no matter the end goal, you were guaranteed to draw a crowd.Thus, a diverse group of pioneers wanted a part of the action. Safety improvements and passable roads encouraged women who were unfettered in the mode of flappers. Group outings with friends were mainstream. 

Ray Weishaar, pictured earlier in this piece, died in 1924 after crashing during a race. His legacy includes a lingual contribution. Harley-Davidson’s “Wrecking Crew” racing team adopted a pig as a mascot which Ray commonly held during victory laps on his bike. Enter the term “hog,” referring to a motorcycle, which was thereafter etched into popular slang. Image via City of Marion, Indiana. 

Like the motorcycles themselves, racing as a professional sport had backyard beginnings. Local events grew into state and national affairs as manufacturers wanted to unleash the latest and greatest. Winning races was a double-shot of success for motorcycle makers.To get their name behind the best in the business — those who could win contests and promote the brand —racing apparel was introduced alongside their gasoline steeds. There’s something exciting, maybe “knightly,” about sponsoring these spirited riders with your company’s heraldry. The same year that Ray Weishaar won the 100-mile race in Kansas, in 1914, the first sweater coats appeared in Harley-Davidson‘s catalog.While jerseys and other knit goods progressively filled the closets of professionals and enthusiasts alike, they’d have to wait until 1931 for zippers to be introduced to H-D’s garments. As 1940 approached, motorcycling accessory catalogs covered a huge range of clothing from headwear to footwear. 

Board track racing was the rage in the 1910s and ’20s. These bikes typically didn’t have brakes and could reach speeds over 100 mph/160 kph on some tracks. Watch for splinters! Image via The Throttlestop. 

The Road Ahead

A British military dispatch rider reads a map atop his “Trusty Triumph.” Triumph produced some 30,000 Model H motorcycles for The Great War. Image via National Library of Scotland. 

The future of motorcycling as a subculture is at a crossroads.With more vehicles on the road than ever before, there are also questions about how motorcyclists will fit into a future where phrases like “self-driving” and “driverless technology” are being thrown around. After all, motorcycling is about the love of the ride. The bike, the rider, and their style are inseparable. 

This is a real oddity and might be a (vintage) custom build, but I’d buy one in a heartbeat! A reproduction of a 1910 Harley-Davidson made from a 1959 Schwinn bicycle is not something that you see every day. Unlike Harley, Schwinn has since moved a lot of their production overseas. However, if a well-engineered bicycle is what you’re after, Detroit Bikes and Steady Bicycle Co. are premium lines with an American touch. Image via Marcus Cain/Facebook.

The Harley-Davidson Serial 1 MOSH/TRIBUTE is the most handsome e-bike on the market today. Made in Milwaukee, its design appropriately recalls the original Model 1 that launched the brand back in 1903. Image via Serial1.eu.

The market is growing for ultralight vehicles. While the term originated in aviation, “ultralight” describes a wide variety of ground vehicles that fill a hyper-localized role; i.e. golf carts, E-bikes, and even four-person pedal carts. This isn’t a debate about the advantages of either gas or EV in this application — I love the smell of gasoline in the morning myself —but money talks. And to a brand losing its market share, it screams like tires unraveling the asphalt.Established brands seek out new opportunities to survive. They either run full throttle or sputter into decline. In fostering the spirit of the Roaring Twenties, motorcycling should continue to inspire a passion for outdoor adventure and sojourns with friends. The intersection of culture and innovation is where the future is heading; a blend of old-world class and styling with new technology that enraptures young audiences. The same principle guides new ventures in the realm of quality workwear. 

Thomas Farthing Ltd. produces exceptional men’s clothing in London. This mackinaw would pair well with a fine, two-wheeled machine. Image via Thomas Farthing/Facebook. 

Modern Makers

Vintage options abound thanks to second-hand stores and vendors, but some designers are bringing back the early motorcycling look. Some specialized items like puttees and jodhpurs are also reproduced for Hollywood and end up on the commercial market. 

Eastman Leather

Great Britain’s Eastman Leather Clothing is internationally known for World War II-era flying jackets. They’ve delved into civilian styles as well, including this three-quarter-length notched collar coat which would be at home on the back of a 1910s motorbike. The pure wool lining will keep you warm in all conditions.The Brooklands Motoring Coat is available from History Preservation Associates for $1,970. 

Harley-Davidson

H-D is going full throttle to bring back classic bike fashion. This year, 2023, happens to be their 120th anniversary and several items listed on their website commemorate the occasion. Made from 100% American-sourced wool and knitted on machines from the 1940s, this sweater is as authentic as it gets to quality workwear-meets-motorcycling. The Talon zipper adds a 1930s-era touch, too.The Men’s 120th Sweater is available from Harley-Davidson for $360. 

Lucan

Norfolk jackets are as British as Triumph motorcycles and were once seen throughout the English-speaking world. To say that this is high-end sportswear is an understatement, but the garment’s practicality shines through. A belt to cinch it tight and prevent it from flapping in the wind, a short length for maneuverability, and big exterior pockets — the hallmarks of outdoorsmen.The Lucan Wool Somontes Norfolk Jacket is available from Harrod’s for  $1,118. 

Nash Motorcycle Company

If you’ve done any weight-lifting, these belts should look familiar. Nash Motorcycle Co. is one of those rare shops where they do it all, from bikes to belts, and their passion for motorcycle culture is highly polished.Next time you take the bike off into the wilds for a weekend, be sure to protect your back with some heritage leather. The Motorcycle Kidney Belt with Old or Regular Hardware Finishes is up for grabs at Nash Motorcycle Co. for $155 

WESCO

Wesco is work boots. Their series of lineman’s boots for the electrical industry are coveted pieces. A tall boot such as the 16″ Voltfoe works well when worn without puttees to still achieve that classic 1920s laced look.The Voltfoe 16″ – #1270 Vibram Sole is for sale at Baker’s for $569. 

White’s Boots

White’s is celebrating an admirable 170 years this year. While their classics have stood the test of time, a collaboration with chopper legend Max Schaaf has yielded yet another promising product.While not as tall as some lace-up motorcycling boots from the 1910s and ’20s, they’d suit just about any vehicle today (and you could also sport puttees for added leather). Here is a blend of traditional styling with new artistry which can be seen in their entire product line.The Max Schaaf 4Q x White’s Riding Boot is available from White’s for $595. 

Acknowledgment and Gallery

If the content of this article even sparked a remote interest, I implore you to check out Dale’s Wheels Through Time. This Maggie Valley, North Carolina museum is a tribute to anything and everything American motorcycles, and they keep their collection in running condition.If you don’t believe me, flag down the staff during your visit and watch them crank up a 100-year-old bike! Also, they run a fantastic Facebook page and YouTube channel if you’re out of reach. Speaking as a self-certified museum nerd, they’re truly a national treasure. 

A wool-lined French leather jacket from the 1910s or ’20s. Image via Cocky Crew Store.

Motorcycle stunts drew thrill-seeking crowds during the Silent (Film) Era. Easter Walters was one of the early stuntwomen making headlines, pictured here on her Harley-Davidson Model WF Sport Twin. Her mode of dress is standard men’s motorcycling attire cut for the female form. Image via Time Travellers/Facebook.

In 1937, Mrs. Sally Halterman was the first woman in Washington D.C. to be licensed to drive a motorcycle. Her style is typical of many pre-war motorcyclists–cloth skull cap included. Image via Shorpy.com.

Los Angeles, 1931. A police motorcycle patrolman is being handed a “special serum” destined for actor Tom Mix who fell ill due to peritonitis. This rider wears an exceptional leather jacket with a fleecy shawl collar. Note the Outinglas shades. Image via Forgotten Los Angeles/Facebook.

J. C. “Pappy” Hoel, an Indian motorcycle dealer from Sturgis, South Dakota, started an event that would become the Black Hills Classic Rally in 1938. Today, many in the industry simply know it as “Sturgis.” With annual crowds in the hundreds of thousands, it is the event for modern motorcycling. Image via David Uhl/David Uhl Studios.

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