March 8 - Skinner American Goods - Keeping One Man Brands Alive

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Skinner American Goods - Keeping One Man Brands Alive

By David Shuck

I know the clothes we feature are often expensive. I can’t afford the majority of them, and in the days before I learned how to sew, I would catch myself thinking, “Why don’t I just make it myself? How hard could it be?“

Only later would I learn the agony and the ecstasy of design, sourcing materials, and clothing production and that these high-dollar items are actually very reasonably priced when you break it down on a spreadsheet.

Well in 2012, Daniel Skinner had that thought and then, much more impressively, he followed through on it. Today, he runs Skinner American Goods, where he produces a full line of jeans, jackets, shirts, and work pants in his Tallahassee, Florida workshop.

We’re taking a look at Daniel’s operation today and how to grow a One Man Brand in 2024.

Bedroom Beginnings

Like many of us, Daniel’s interest in clothing developed in college. But, also like many of us, his taste soon outpaced his budget and led him to the “I bet I could do that” stage. When he saw a vintage Singer sewing machine in a thrift shop, he took it home and put that idea to the test.

In addition to his academic studies, Daniel dove deep into sewing techniques, fabrics, pattern making, and all other aspects of garment production. He recounts, “I got really obsessed with it pretty quickly and within a few months I was spending all my free time learning how to make clothes.”

This was in 2012, the early days of Instagram, Youtube, and a plethora of other internet resources, so a lot of Daniel’s experience came from trial and error and hounding people who looked like they knew what they were doing with messages. “There were so many prominent makers who helped me along the way. Everyone in this small brand denim maker community is so incredibly helpful and encouraging. We’re all friends behind the scenes.”

The nurturing from that community would help him become a part of it.

Launching into a Brand

By 2018, with a few contract sewing jobs under his belt, Daniel felt ready to start his own brand and launched with three items:  jeans, chinos, and shorts.

Production was literally in-house, he had crammed nine vintage sewing machines into a 120 square foot spare bedroom. The concept was simple, he wanted to make thoughtfully designed, responsibly sourced, and carefully crafted garments to the same durability standards of the machines he sewed on.

A Skinner Sashiko Jacket in 12oz. Japanese indigo fabric.

And Skinner goods combine expertise from all over the world to exemplify that ethos:

• All raw materials are sourced from the U.S., Japan, or Italy for their rich textile history but also higher labor and environmental standards

• The garment pattern system comes from a German tailoring method designed for one-off production

• And all the little details like flat-felled stitching, leather-backed buttons and rivets, and swing-action backs on the jackets

Skinner Today

Daniel has only expanded on that starting philosophy. He’s made it out of sewing in a bedroom and you can find him in his retail space and workshop in the Railroad Square Arts District in Tallahassee, Florida. 

Today he offers eight garments in 20 different fabrics, all still made-to-order on vintage machines by himself or one other employee he’s taken on.

If you’re looking to try a Skinner offering, Daniel suggests their Ranger Jacket, “I spent the better part of a year refining this design and it’s my favorite thing I’ve ever made.” He offers it in a heavy 20oz., 100% made in USA, Berry Amendment Compliant waxed canvas as well as a 16oz. waxed woodland camo.

It has sleeve patches from the elbow to the cuff for durability, double snap flap pockets, rounded pocket edges and cuffs which are less likely to snag on things while working. His favorite detail is the action back for full range of motion, “We added a specially designed interior panel which returns the pleats to the closed position for comfort and a cleaner silhouette when not in use. Like most of our garments, the fit sits right in the sweet spot; a slightly tailored silhouette with plenty of room to move and layer.”

Daniel also just released a 22oz. Japanese selvedge denim collection. Heavyweight denim is notoriously difficult to work with from a technical standpoint, and it required retooling and beefing up some of his machines.

Looking ahead, expected releases include some of their first non-denim pants this spring, some new colors of their 12oz. sashiko fabric in the summer, heavyweight flannels in the fall/winter, and potentially women’s fits in 2025.

Only 2-3% of clothing in the US is produced here and an even smaller percentage of those brands are doing it all under one roof. Daniel’s goal is ultimately to help you develop a closer relationship with the clothes you wear and the people who make them. When you call, email, or drop by Skinner, you’ll talk to the same person who designed and performed every single operation in the production of your shirt, jeans, or jacket.

Or if you’re looking for sewing tips because you also mistakenly thought, “How hard could it be?” he’s there to help.

You can find Skinner American Goods at their website, on Instagram, or at their location 625-8 Railroad Sq, Tallahassee, Florida.

/ Fade Friday /

Cushman Lot. 22040 8 oz. Denim Pant (3 Years, Unknown Washes)

If you like denim but need a break from the 5-pocket, riveted lifestyle, you can’t do much better than Cushman‘s 8 oz. Denim Pants. Modeled after a work pant/chino but made from lightweight denim, you can achieve an old-school straight cut while getting some monster fades in. But you don’t have to trust your friendly neighborhood Heddels writer, ask Nick in the UK, who has been nursing a pair for 3 years.

Within that time he’s done it all from the car repairs and housing renovation to countless days out in the world at large. Washed as needed and worn hard, the results speak for themselves.

Great yellow-green hughes mixed with varying degrees of energetic indigo, check. Crepe cake creasing on the lap that grows sparse along the knees, check. Bright back pocket and knee fades, check. Years left in the tank for wear and tear, check. Inspection complete. See you at the next tune-up, Nick.

/ New Releases /

Teamster Tees and Beanies are Fully Restocked

If you’ve slept on our 100% American grown and knit cotton, 100% union labor cut and sewn t-shirts, this is your alarm to wake up!

We’ve just received a full restock of all short and long-sleeve styles of our beloved Teamster Tee and the Teamster Knit Beanie, all produced in California by sewing members of the International Brotherhood of Teamsters.

You can find them starting at $18 at Heddels Shop.

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Buzz Rickson’s Reproduced Insanely Rare Color-Ribbed L2-A Flight Jacket

It’s easy to take for granted a jacket like this L2-A Flight Jacket from Buzz Rickson’s. The thing is, the standard L2-As is already extremely rare, as the more “common” olive drab L2-B accounted for most of these specialized bombers during the 50s and 60s. But this isn’t just any L2-A faithfully brought back to life by the leader in military repros – it’s one that accounts for a special modification that only a minute number of original examples had: customized knit ribbing.

Meant to distinguish one squadron from another, not only are we getting style points for the satisfying contrast – this mod speaks to a level of military history that is not so well known. So sure it has period-correct features like a spring-loaded front zip, reverse flap snap closure pockets, that iconic shoulder pocket, and a scary accurate contract tag, but its existence and Buzz’s willingness to share it with the public is also a lesson in obscure customization that now gets to live on.

Available for $490 from Hinoya.

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Son of the Cheese’s Check Wool Vest is Sharp & Mature

I beg your pardon, Son of a wha-?

From the vibrant streets of Tokyo, Son of the Cheese has been blending urban flair with traditional craftsmanship since 2013. Playing on the concept of “Little America”, the brand plays with numerous vibes from workwear to prep, sportswear, and graphic streetwear. Awful brand name, interesting clothing.

A standout piece available over at Haku Clothing is the Check Wool Vest. Crafted with precision in Japan from premium wool, this military liner-style piece features a Prince of Wales-esque check throughout, YKK hardware, and a padded polyester lining to keep you warm on chillier days.

Available for $217 from Haku Clothing.

/ Weekly Rundown /

• The Ultimate Bucket List of Historic General Stores – Inside Hook

• Fashion: Can You Wear Your Suit Jacket On Its Own? An Investigation – Mr. Porter

• Who Foots the Bill for a Greener Fashion Industry? – Sourcing Journal

• American manufacturing spending is up 279% under Biden — Distilled

• Shocking (but Accurate!) Statistics About Fashion’s Environmental Impact – Ecocult

• When to wear a tie: Personality and opportunity – Permanent Style

• A conversation with Yuki Matsuda of MEG Company – Well Dressed Dad

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