- Heddels
- Posts
- March 19 - Type II 5+1 - Cockpit
March 19 - Type II 5+1 - Cockpit
David Shuck
March 19, 2024
Together with
/ Five Plus One /
Type II Denim Jackets
The Type II denim jacket is a bit of an odd duck in jeans history. Levi’s only produced the model number 507XX Type II for less than a decade, between 1953 and 1962, before it was replaced by the iconic Type III trucker jacket we all know today, but that brief period left a strong impression on vintage collectors and repro brands alike.
The Type II was only a modest improvement of the Type I jacket, which reigned from 1906-1952, the most notable addition being a second pocket and side tabs, while the knife pleats and boxy fit remained unchanged.
It seems as though many of the Japanese denim brands prioritize a Type II repro before considering the more prevalent Type III and below we have some of our favorite offerings, including one that’s a bit more out there.
With only 9 years of original production, Levi’s Vintage Clothing has undoubtedly been producing a repro of the Type II for longer than Levi’s did originally. The in-house line has chosen to recreate the inaugural year of the Type II, stitch for stitch down to the leather patch below the collar. Details are slim on Levi’s website, the cotton is 100% organic, but the country of origin is simply imported.
Available for $405 at Levi’s.
Do you live in a city? This is apparently the jacket for you! Naming conventions aside, Unique Garment Co. delivers on their brand with a one-of-a-kind “Rain-Drop” denim that’s woven from short-fiber cotton warp yarns and long fiber weft yarns to give a unique texture and fade to the jacket. They’ve also lengthened the body and shortened the sleeves slightly and added the modern convenience of hand-warmer pockets.
This unique piece can be yours for $315 at Corlection.
One thing you might notice from old photos is that people used to wear their pants a lot higher, practically at navel-level. As a consequence, jackets were cut much higher to match. For those that don’t go all the way with their repro, that has lead to some unfortunate denim-bare midriffs. Have no fear, Sugar Cane is here to cover you up with a pitch-perfect Type II that’s just a little bit longer in the body. Make sure you size it extra long though, this one’s a shrinker.
Available for $234 at Redcast Heritage.
We swear, that’s an actual picture of a jacket up there and not just an outline. Momotaro has totally blacked out this version of a Type II: black warp, black weft, black stitching, even black iron buttons. This is also not your standard fit Type II with a slimmer fit and a longer body and the fabric is made from 100% extra-long-staple Zimbabwean cotton to ensure it’ll be soft to the touch and long lasting as well.
Available for $336 at Redcast Heritage.
If you’ve found yourself caught between the Type II and Type III trucker jacket, Dawson Denim may have your answer. Although they call their Lot 27 at Type II and it’s got the characteristic knife pleats on the placket, they’ve worked in some elements of the more modern trucker into the design with a more angular cut from the shoulders to the waist and a slightly longer body. Think of it as a Type Two-and-a-Half.
Available for 320 GBP (~$400) at Dawson Denim.
East meets west in our final Type 2, which uses sashiko, a traditional Japanese stitching technique for stretching every last bit of use out of a piece of fabric. Studio D’Artisan hasn’t preworn this Type 2, even though the extremely light shade of the natural indigo dye may look it. The Awa Shoai process is extremely labor intensive as it requires not only growing the indigo plants, but also fermenting their leaves for 100 days, and then hand-dyeing the yarns 12-14 times to achieve the specific shade. Fabrics made from Shoai indigo are all completely unique and no two of these jackets will be exactly alike.
Available for $540 at Redcast Heritage.
/ In Partnership with Cockpit USA /
According to comments made by the Air Force pilots who requested practical modifications of the original re-issue 1987 version of the A-2 flight jacket, the Official 21st Century A-2 U.S.A.F Flight Jacket is a contemporary version of the original classic Government Issue jacket.
Cockpit USA's A-2 U.S.A.F. pilot bomber jacket is tailored to serve present-day pilot requirements while retaining all the authentic charm of the original making it perfect for everyday wear.
Made in USA and available for $530 at Cockpit USA.
-
Want to see your name here? Drop us a line at [email protected].
/ New Releases /
Levi’s gets all the love when it comes to denim jackets but there has always been another “L”. That’s right. Lee was cooking back in the day as well. And while the Levi’s Type I and Type II were growing in popularity, the Lee Storm Rider was also out on the range, putting in work on the back of ranchers, hands, and cowboys.
Celebrating the Storm Rider’s history and proving it’s a model worth paying attention to, TCB has crafted a killer rendition, faithfully resurrecting all the details that made the jacket popular in the first place. Taking after late 1940s source material, the “Storm Cats Drive” Jacket features a 3×1 14.6 oz left-hand twill sanforized selvedge denim which nails the OG appearance. The jacket is made in Japan and features a recycled wool blanket lining with a striped motif that takes you back in time while keeping you toasty warm.
Closed out a contrasting corduroy collar and details that emphasize how particular the Two Cats Brand is — like denim piping that required an attachment on their Union Special sewing machine — it’s clear that founder Hajime Inoue has a soft spot for the Lee, which shines brightly with products like this.
Available for $392 from Redcast Heritage.
Want to learn about TCB and its cat-branded denim? Check out TCB Jeans, The ‘Two Cats Brand’ -History, Philosophy, Iconic Products
-
The spirit of the 1960s is alive and well in the Denime Lot 224 66 Model Selvedge Indigo Jeans. Modeled after Levi 501s from the period, Denime’s remake goes above and beyond to ensure they capture the magic once reserved for enjoying original examples.
As a member of the incomparable Osaka 5, Denime has been around the block and has used its decades of experience in the denim game to make sure it gets everything right – down to the last detail. Clearly showing in the final product, go ahead and bask in the glory that is uneven texture thanks to old-school Toyoda GL3 looms, a perfectly proportioned mid-rise, and details to dig into like their selvedge ID, cotton thread, and a period-correctpaper patch. Weighing in at 14.5 oz. and using a fabric developed jointly with Kurabo Industries based on recipes from the period, if you’re looking for a youthful pair of jeans that has some age to them, look no further than the highly fade-able 66 Model.
Available for $247 from Cultizm.
-
Any fan of Gitman Vintage knows the thrill of new and exciting fabrics coming out each season, blended with the assurance that the same cuts and fits will return with the consistency of a rising tide. One of the highlights of the new SS24 collection is the Baja Blanket Camp Collar. The 100% cotton fabric pays homage to the blanket hoodies of Southern California surf culture, which were in-turn adapted from traditional Mexican ponchos picked up in the Baja peninsula.
It comes in the American shirtmaker’s camp collar design, with a perfectly squared off shoulder, barrel sleeve, and straight body. Produced in Gitman’s Lafayette, TN factory, it has an open neck with a single loop button, were you so inclined to button it up. The 12 oz jacquard weave fabric has a hefty feel to it but the looser knit makes it very breathable. This vibrant pastel take is perfect for warm summer nights on the beach or sweltering rooftop parties, if you can’t get out of town. Word to the wise, snatch this beauty up while it lasts. Cause, just as Gitman giveth, Gitman taketh away.
Available for $240 from Tendrel.
/ What did you think of today’s newsletter? /