- Heddels
- Posts
- March 15 - Sugar Cane Review
March 15 - Sugar Cane Review
David Shuck
March 15, 2024
Together with
/ Reviews /
Sugar Cane Stonewash Review – Pre-Washed Selvedge Denim Done Right
Washed denim used to be such a taboo in the raw denim scene and to some purists, it still is. Look, I understand why a niche predicated on the ‘rawness’ of denim would struggle to accept that there is a space within that same niche for washed denim, but I understand even more that some folks simply don’t have the time to fade a raw denim garment in the way they want. Maybe they want selvedge denim without the raw, deep indigo look. In any case, they still want quality.
That’s where Sugar Cane comes in. Understanding that there is a demand for high-quality, selvedge denim silhouettes in authentic washes that look the real deal, Sugar Cane is one of the few Japanese denim labels that looks to have gotten washed denim right.
All of the Sugar Cane’s washed selvedge goods look fantastic in images but we wanted to see for ourselves. Redcast Heritage was kind enough to send out one of the brand’s latest washed denim pieces, the 1953 Type II Denim Jacket ‘Aged Model’. In this review, we’ll be taking a closer look at Sugar Cane’s washed selvedge denim, as well as the silhouette of this particular jacket itself.
By The Numbers
Name: Sugar Cane 1953 Type II Denim Jacket Aged Model
Materials: 14.25 oz. unsanforized Double Ring Spun Japanese selvedge denim – stonewashed.
Made in: Japan
Fit: Boxy, true to size
Details:
Blend of American/Zimbabwean cotton
Reproduction of Levi’s 1953 Type II denim jacket
Custom iron buttons
Pink selvedge ID
Available for $330 from Redcast Heritage.
The Fabric
It Was Raw
Sugar Cane has produced a handful of washed selvedge denim fabrics over the years, but the fabric in question here is the 14.25 oz. unsanforized double ring-spun Japanese selvedge denim ‘Light Blue’, woven from a blend of Zimbabwean and American cottons.
You heard me right — it was unsanforized. That means that this denim started life as a raw and unsanforized selvedge denim fabric before being sewn into the Type II silhouette and washed/processed. As usual, Sugar Cane hasn’t cut any corners, here.
Look & Feel
I’m going to be straight here and say that this denim looks incredible. I can’t dance around the matter — Sugar Cane has managed to achieve a scarily realistic fade and tone. This jacket looks like something you’d see in a vintage denim issue of Clutch or Lightning. The kind of piece that would cost you hundreds or potentially. . .
/ Fade Friday /
Left Field NYC Greaser (~5 Years, Unknown Washes)
Ryan in Clevland is reminding us that there is more to life than just blue jeans. In fact, black denim — although often slept on — offers up a whole world of color that indigo could never.
Ryan’s Left Field NYC Greaser Cut Black Marias are made from 15 oz. Xinjiang cotton black selvedge denim, and they’ve been going strong since 2018 with the greatest amount of action happening throughout those first 3 years when Ryan was at school. After enduring gigs, classes, and everything else life threw at them, there came a point when too many holes meant they were no longer suitable for work or daily wear.
On the plus side, this level of broken in-ness meant that the left-hand twill had gotten so soft, they felt like pajamas. After a dedicated regiment of regular washes, our guy wanted to see a few more shades of gray and experimented with a little bleach in the wash. The results were steamier than the book I’m subtly referencing (I’m sure the comments accusing Ryan of being a denim cheat will be even steamier) with an epic array of light hues giving the jeans a smokey pop with creases rising from the denim like steam from a sewer vent.
As these Ryans black beauties approach a point of becoming more patches than original fabric, something tells me they are never going to fully leave the rotation.
/ In Partnership with Grant Stone /
It takes over a month to make Badalassi Carlo Tannery's Minerva Box leather, and Grant Stone makes it into boots to last a lifetime.
Minerva Box is a grained version of the boutique Italian tannery's vegetable tanned Minerva leather. During the process, the hides are placed in a 'Bottali,' a large rotating barrel, that allows the organic tanning substances to stay in contact with the tannins for 30-35 days. The result is a vibrant leather with transparency, depth, and grain.
You can find the Minerva Box on Grant Stone's Cap-Toe Garrison and Moc-Toe Brass styles.
-
Want to see your name here? Drop us a line at [email protected].
/ New Releases /
Where else are you going to find a gorgeously textured, point-collared, zip sweater like Norse Projects Erik Jacket? Maybe in your grandpa’s closet? Hands off, he’ll probably want to hang on to that one, champ. Pieces like this are practically made to layer up smartly with, elderly people are smart, after all.
The Norse Projects Erik Jacket isn’t just beautiful, either, it’s practical: Use it like any of your other simple light jackets and let me know how much different your experience is. It’s made from 75-20-5 recycled cotton-poly-other, the Erik is available in two discreet colorways and features a zipper front closure, dual hand pockets at the hips, set-in sleeves, ribbed collar/cuffs/hem, spread collar, and a slightly relaxed fit. Channel your inner grandparent now and forever on with this gorgeously textured jacket before all the other kids do.
Available for $374 from Lost & Found.
-
If you don’t already have a pair of tall moc toe boots, check out these New Bronze Backcountry moccasin style boots by Russell Moccasin. These highly rugged leather boots are made for any occasion you want your feet protected in style – hiking, hunting, fishing, gathering, or simply being.
Being cut from a buttery soft Horween Chamois leather means you’ll know that they’re going to be some of the most comfortable boots you’ve ever worn from the first hike onward. Russell opted for a light brown hue that’s only going to get better (i.e. patinated) and more relaxed with time spent in them.
Sat upon a re-soleable Lactae Hevea Plantation crepe sole (oh-so comfy), the Bronze Backcountry features 7″ silhouette, hand molded leather heel counters, double vamp contruction, Poron sock liner, pull-on loops, Army Stud brass eyelets and speed hooks, tonal and contrasting stitching, and contrasting laces.
Available for $695 from Russell Moccasin.
-
The Sugar Cane SC29120 Rayon Ombre Plaid Open Shirt is an instant classic. No, really, it’s based on shirting from the midcentury. That’s how you know the design and details are solid – they’re time tested.
This particular beautiful thing is a 100% rayon fabric flannel shirt with oodles of texture and color, but not the loud kind, making for a suitable casual shirting option when you need an extra insulating layer. Made in Japan and available in two sumptuous shadow plaids (aka ombre check), the shirt is detailed with contrasting Takase shell buttons on the front, a single patch pocket on the chest, adjustable cuffs, a nice wide spread collar, and a classic vintage silhouette (read: roomy).
Rayon makes this button-down perfect for the upcoming warmer weather, but don’t be afraid to sling this on under a knit or denim jacket in the meantime.
Available for $140 from HINOYA.
/ Weekly Rundown /
REI workers march to company’s HQ to protest for a union contract
The NY Times wants to know, “Why are pants so big again?”
All the men’s looks from the Oscar’s red carpet
The despotic origins of the world’s first style magazine
Watch a resole of a pair of vintage Red Wing Engineer boots
Actor Adam Goldberg talks his shoe collection
/ What did you think of today’s newsletter? /