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- March 1 - APC NS Fade
March 1 - APC NS Fade
David Shuck
March 01, 2024
Together with
/ Fade Friday /
A.P.C. New Standard (2 Years, 7 Months, 7 Washes, 6 Soaks)
We can all remember our very first pair of raw denim like it was yesterday: the excitement, the excruciating wait for fades, and being confused as to when and how to wash the things. This week we present reader Neihthan Nguyen of Vietnam’s first pair of raw denim, a shredded and well-faded pair of A.P.C. New Standards.
Neihthan has worn these jeans for about 2.5 years pretty regularly, and it shows; check out the tearing and fraying on the knees, thighs, and even the train tracks. To say these jeans have faded impressively is an understatement!
In fact, everything from the whiskers, thighs, honeycombs and back pockets is as defined as can be. These will soon get some repairs and then put into storage as Neihthan’s first step into a larger world of denim.
/ In Partnership with Haven /
Haven's second delivery of the year continues to focus on quietly functional pieces that will carry you out of the depths of winter, through the shifting seasons into longer and warmer days. With fabric stories old and new, this delivery is built around their new Rove Packable Jacket and Pants. Designed with versatility and performance in mind they utilized the most lightweight three-layer WINDSTOPPER® fabric GORE-TEX Labs has to offer.
Thanks to this technology, and the innovative design, these water-resistant and windproof pieces can be folded away into their pocket for easy access or storage while on the go. Revisiting some of their popular styles we see the return of the military-inspired Recon Pants and Field Cap in soft, jersey-backed GORE-TEX WINDSTOPPER® and Ascent Zip in Polartec® Alpha® Direct. Rounding out the delivery are the luxurious staples of our Suvin and Siro cotton t-shirts. Renowned for being some of the highest-grade cottons on the market they provide exceptional comfort and next-to-skin feel in two different fits.
See them all at Haven.
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/ New Releases /
Donkey jackets were originally worn by operators of the ‘donkey engine’ of the Manchester Ship Canal who needed an insulating yet protective layer to wear daily on the job. It’s a fantastic style, but coming across an original is pretty tough. Sure, there’s been interpretations of this classic, but not many — if any at all — reach the heights of the meticulous reproduction by The Real McCoy’s.
The MJ23125 Wool Donkey Jacket features a loose fit, soft-handed 100% navy Melton wool body, dark horsehide leather reinforcing yokes, patch pockets on the hips, and a button front placket with nut buttons. It’s a simple work jacket, but one that speaks volumes when put together with this kind of precision engineering. The Real McCoy’s have used archive originals to inform their design process but fine-tuned their reproduction with top-quality materials, elevating a simple working coat into a refined piece of menswear.
We love Lost & Found’s casual styling of the MJ23125, but there’s no question that this Donkey could carry any manner of outfit, from a casual get-up with jeans and a hoody up to a smart ensemble with tailored pants and welted footwear. No matter how you style it, it will last and stand the test of time — just how we like things here at Heddels.
Available for $1031 from Lost & Found.
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Ballcap enthusiasts, listen up. Japanese-made Poten hats just got restocked over at Wallace, right on time for the sunnier seasons. If you’re a cap lover but you’re not familiar with Poten, I’d recommend taking a second to read a bit about these heritage-centric hatmakers contributing to the growing hatmaking scene in Japan. Spoiler alert: Poten is one of the star players.
The virtual shelves at Wallace are stocked up with so many choices, but here are a few we think will be more than suitable for more temperate climes, starting with the Safilin Cap. Available in two colors, Safilin fabric is a 70-30 cotton-linen blend, making it a perfectly lightweight layer to wear when the temps are climbing.
Next up to bat is the Sunny Dry Cap, which as the name suggests, is a sun-dried 100% cotton fabric that Poten has had cured in the sun. Not only does the hat look authentic right out of the box, but it’s all-natural fabric, meaning it’s highly breathable and will only age well with time.
Lastly, we have the Indigo Chambray Cap, cut from a beautifully textured, lightweight indigo 100% cotton chambray. Essentially a perfect pair to your normally denim-packed fits, this chambray is as breezy as any of these options and comes lightly dipped in one of our favorite dyes… it’s a no-brainer.
Most Poten caps are fitted, so double-check your hat size (circumference) before buying. Each one is manufactured in the same factory that produces Japan’s National Baseball League caps and comes with a leather sweatband, embroidered eyelets, stitch-reinforced brim, fabric-covered button, and a Poten tag.
Check out the full collection which is available at Wallace Mercantile from $93.
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The ONI Denim 20 oz. Secret Denim Beige Weft Kabuki Selvedge Type III Denim Jacket is a secret…Well, not really. It’s secretly not so secret anymore — but for the better — as denim fans everywhere know the magic of this beautifully colored and textured denim. The real secret is: You can’t go wrong with this jacket.
The Type III we see here is cut from ONI’s 20 oz. per-square-yard Secret Denim. The term ‘secret’ really refers to ONI’s secret recipe of wonky, low-tension weaving that adds untold levels of character to this heavyweight fabric. Not only does this illusive weaving technique make selvedge denim full of slub — it also creates a heavy denim that will hold its shape and produce high contrast fades with wear.
Coming in the archetypal Type III trucker imprint, this jacket is made in Japan and features dual flap chest pockets, welted hand pockets at the waist (seen on later renditions of the Type III), metal buttons throughout, knife seams down the front, reinforcing yokes on the front and back, adjustable cuffs, adjustable hem, and authentic ONI demon leather patch.
Available for $290 from HINOYA.
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To learn more about ONI and other Japanese denim labels, check out Raw Japanese Denim: A Beginner’s Guide to Japan’s Biggest Labels
/ Weekly Rundown /
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