Know Your Twills – 3×1, 2×1, and Plain Weave

We go into the different twils: 3x1, 2x1, and plain weave. Learn more about what makes them so different, and what weave your denim is.

Austin Bryant

Here at Heddels, we’ve gone over subjects like bar tacks and flat-felled seams, so it’s only natural that we go to the core of denim—the weave. Denim weight is a fairly well-known commodity; the higher the ounce weight in denim, the heavier and more durable the fabric.

It may not be as commonly known that the weave is partially what helps determine a fabric’s weight in ounces. 3×1, 2×1, and 1×1 or plain weave are the terms to know, so let’s go through them below.

3×1

3×1 is the most common weave in selvedge denim, chiefly because any denim over a 10.5 oz. per square yard weight use 3×1. What the numbers describe is the number of warp threads versus weft threads. For 3×1, there are 3 warp threads for every weft thread.

If you closely inspect your favorite pair of selvedge denim that is at least 10.5 oz. in weight, you’ll likely see three threads crossing over every one weft thread.

3×1 is the most common simply because it is the sturdiest weave; denim is a fabric rooted in workwear, so it’s only natural to have it be as durable as possible.

2×1

As you may have guessed, 2×1 is just two warp threads for every weft thread.

We’ve covered summer weight denim options at Heddels before, which typically clock in at less than 10.5 oz. These pairs of denim are likely woven using a 2×1 weave. A 2×1 weave provides some level of durability while making the fabric more breathable.

Plain Weave

Plain weave is a simple way of saying a 1×1 weave. The warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. This method is the simplest way for cloth to be woven.

By varying the tension of the threads, weavers can make the resulting fabric tighter or looser and stronger or more breathable. Basketweave is a well-known variation of the plain weave method.

Like this? Read these:

Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep

Crepe Rubber – What is it and Where Does it Come From?