The Complete Guide To Understanding Raw Denim Weights

A complete guide to understanding raw denim weights. We've split the weight ranges into 3 categories, explaining the pros and cons of each.

James Smith

Often, you’ll see denim weights noted here on Heddels, and for good reason. Denim weight is a crucial factor in the composition and wearing experience of a denim garment. A pair of 23 oz. raw denim jeans will look, feel, and wear in completely differently from a pair of 12 oz raw denim jeans.

If you’re in any way confused about raw denim weights, you’re in the right place. This is our brief guide to understanding what we mean when we call a denim 12 oz. or 18 oz., heavyweight or lightweight, or indeed describe them as 32 oz. monster.

This article will mainly focus on raw denim, but a lot of the principles discussed can be applied to denim of all kinds.

How is Denim Weight Determined?

The idea of categorizing denim goods by weight comes from the weight of a square yard of the fabric in question, in ounces. This relates directly to the density of yarn woven in and the weight of said yarn. As such, if a pair of raw selvedge denim jeans is listed as 14 oz., it means that the denim they are made from weighs 14 oz. per square yard. It does not mean that the jeans themselves weigh 14 oz.

Denim Weights

For the sake of simplicity, we’ll break the weights into three main categories:

1. Lightweight – Less than 12 oz.

2. Mid-weight –  12 oz. – 16 oz.

3. Heavyweight – 16 oz. or above

1. Lightweight Denim – Less Than 12 Oz.

Lightweight raw denim is the lightest and easiest to wear. A raw denim under 12 oz. is typically easy to break in as it won’t require anywhere near as much wearing time as a heavier fabric to attain a pleasant level of comfort.

The lighter yarns used to weave lightweight denim are much more malleable from the start. You might find that a pair of lightweight raw denim jeans would be broken in and comfortable after a day of wear.

If you want comfort over anything else, seek raw denim in this category. The only drawback is that the fades achieved with this level of denim won’t look quite as high contrast or impressive as on heavier-weight denim.

Gustin Zimbabwe Superlight 10.5 Selvedge Denim Jeans, available for $149 from Gustin.

Freenote Cloth Modesto 11oz Memphis Blue Denim Wide Straight Jeans, available for $325 from Redcast Heritage.

2. Midweight – Between 12 oz. – 16 oz.

Midweight denim is the most common, largely because denim in this category is very versatile. As you enter midweight territory, raw denim starts off stiffer and harder to the touch. While this means the garment will have a break-in period, it allows creases to set in better than lighter-weight raw denim pieces, offering the potential for stronger fades.

Further positives of midweight denim include a slightly warmer wear come winter and fall, lots of product options, and a longer-lasting garment that is much harder to wear through.

Sugar Cane SC1947 14.25 oz. Selvedge Denim Jeans, available from Iron Shop Provisions for $240.

Tellason Sheffield Straight Tapered 14.75 oz. Selvedge Denim Jeans, available for $260 from Tellason.

3. Heavyweight – Above 16 Oz.

This is where denim gets heavy and enthusiasts get their wallets out. Heavyweight denim is a hallmark of the raw denim scene, with weights reaching up to 40 oz. in the case of Naked & Famous.

Garments in this category take a real commitment. They take time and effort to break in, and honestly, they won’t feel great at first. Jeans of these weights can often stand up on their own, and jackets will feel like you have some sort of bulletproof armour on. However, if you take the time to break these in, you’ll have a super impressive garment that will develop incredible fades and patina. Also be aware that when you do break the denim in, it will not be anywhere near as comfortable as something in the lightweight category.

It’s worth noting that denim in this category requires ironclad construction to ensure the composition can hold up to the weight of the denim. If you want to go heavy, do your research and go for a reputable brand.

Iron Heart 25 oz. Selvedge Denim, available in a range of cuts at Iron Heart.

Samurai S710XX19ozII 19oz Kiwami Selvedge Denim – Mid Rise Slim Straight Tapered, available for $335 from Franklin and Poe.

Brave Star Selvage Regular Taper 18oz ‘Samurai’ Japan Selvage, available for $148 from Brave Star Selvage.

Our Advice

It’s easiest to enter the raw denim game with something in more of the lightweight category, but the mid-weights can be simple enough for someone working through their first pair and offer a better prospect in terms of fades and longevity. Heavyweight denim is fun (our Fade Friday column is built by the stuff), but just be warned that it will be a bit more of an undertaking in terms of breaking in.

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