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One Wash Denim – Is It Still Raw?

One wash denim can be a source of confusion for many raw denim newcomers. Let's clear things up and discuss its pros and cons.

James Smith

For the beginner, the world of raw denim can seem like a minefield. Especially when you think you have your size, and you’re then hit with two options – raw or one-wash? It may feel like this additional option is complicating your purchase, but don’t fret, one-wash denim is there to simplify your sizing selection.

What is One-Wash Denim?

The answer is simple — one-wash denim is raw denim, which has been pre-washed (well, just wet and dried) to remove the shrinkage from the fabric. That’s it! The denim is still raw, dark, and crispy, the garment has just been washed (once) by the denim company or vendor prior to sale.

The purpose of this process is to remove the need to shrink your denim garment prior to wearing it. This makes it much easier to pick your size, especially as every brand fits slightly differently, and shrinkage rates vary from fabric to fabric. Buying one-wash jeans also gives you the option to have them hemmed upon purchase, as you have much less shrinkage to worry about.

So, Is One Wash Denim Still Raw?

Technically, no, but this is only if you’re being militant. Most people still refer to once-washed raw denim as simply ‘raw denim’ — ourselves included! If you want to live your life by semantics and tell everyone that one washed denim isn’t raw, go for it. But maybe consider the fact you’re still angry about that $300 you lost when you underestimated the shrinkage of those Samurais you bought a few years ago?

If you want to swap semantics for simplicity, then one wash denim is a convenient way to make sure you get the right size on your next raw denim purchase.

Do I Have To Shrink It Again?

No, you are not obliged to shrink one-wash denim after purchase. When you finally come to wash the garment, you can expect it to pucker up slightly, but it will roughly stretch back to the size it was upon purchase.

/In Partnership with Iron & Resin/

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Will One-Wash Denim Fade?

The answer to this question is a categorical yes. The fading potentials of different types of denim will always be up for discussion, and different people will have their preferences and opinions. But with enough wear, all raw denim — even that which has been one-washed — will fade in a way that’s unique to its owner. Need proof? Just check out all the different kinds of denim exhibited in our weekly fade features.

The Pros and Cons of One-Wash Denim

Pros:

• Sizing – Drastically reduces post retail shrinkage, making choosing your size much easier

• Comfort – Slightly softer than completely raw denim, making it comfier from the start

• Hemming – In the case of jeans, you can get a vendor/retailer to hem them if they offer this service, because you don’t have to worry about significant vertical shrinkage. Maybe leave half an inch just in case, though.

Cons:

• Tradition – Not for those determined to go completely raw, or who want the traditional shrink-to-fit experience

• Fade Intensity  – As one wash denim is often slightly softer from the start (even softer than raw denim you’ve shrunken yourself in the tub), the initial creases that set in are not as deep, leading to less stark fades in some cases.

One Wash Denim Products

Our seasonal picks of some of the finest one-wash denim in the land.

Burgus Plus x Warehouse & Co. Vintage Slim Jeans – One wash – Lot.880-0302

Available for $205 from Sun House.

Sugar Cane 1953 Denim Jacket

Available at Redcast Heritage for $272.

Big John R009 Selvedge Denim Jeans

Available for $380 from Franklin and Poe.

orSlow 107 Ivy Fit Denim

Available at Blue in Green for $308.

Stevenson Overall Co. Encitas Selvedge Denim Jeans

Available at Franklin and Poe for $295.

TCB 40s Jacket

Available at Redcast Heritage for $249.

If you want to learn more about the terms ‘sanforized’, ‘unsanforized’, and ‘sanforization’, and how they relate to the sizing and shrinkage of raw denim, check out Unsanforized vs. Sanforized Denim.

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