The Definitive Buyer’s Guide To M-65 Field Jackets

We take on the history and functionality of one of the US military's most iconic pieces of outerwear, the M-65 Field Jacket.

Nick Coe

Military garb is a well of sartorial inspiration that never runs dry. It’s a form of workwear that features heavily in our niche but also drips into all corners of the wider fashion world, historically appearing in counter-culture movements that showcased widely-issued silhouettes to the civilian population, creating undying staples that now appear in all walks of life.

One of the most iconic military silhouettes is the M-65 Field Jacket. Short for “M-1965,” the year of its debut and first use, it served U.S. troops worldwide as a replacement for the M-1951 Field Jacket, which in turn was the second iteration of the M-1943field jacket from World War II.

Today, the M-65 jacket has become so ubiquitous within vintage clothing circles that it almost belongs in a category of its own. But what distinguishes the garment from the rest? And more importantly, who should you look to if you’re in the market for one? Let’s take a look

What is an M-65 Field Jacket?

The M-65 Field Jacket is a military jacket made from olive green cotton sateen. It is fitted with four pockets, a stand collar with stowaway hood, and adjusting cords at the waist and hem. These jackets were issued with a liner that could be buttoned in and out of the jacket. These were also a shade of olive green and were made from a lightweight wind-resistant nylon shell with polyester batting.

Like all military garments, there is a range of contracts that result in slight differences in pattern and details. The most significant difference is on the “1st pattern,” which was only used between 1965 and 1966 and does not have shoulder epaulettes. All later models have epaulettes, and different contracts and issuing years give rise to changes such as zipper color/material (chrome, brass, plastic), the inclusion or omission of a bellows cuff, and the type of liner.

The M-65 holds the title of the longest-issued U.S. Army field jacket, serving troops for 40 years between 1965 and 2005.

1st Pattern (1965-1966)

Later and More Common Patterns (1966 onwards)

What makes the M-65 so special?

The unrivalled value offered by this garment can be boiled down to several core qualities, including: enduring construction, timeless aesthetic, and pure versatility.

1. Enduring Construction

Given its deep history and the context of its application, it should come as no surprise that the M-65 is built to last. While not all current-day makes or models may be made to the same standard as those fifty years ago, the thoughtful and purposeful anatomy of the jacket is what creates its relentless endurance.

In the above graphics, we’ve noted some key elements unique to the M-65, such as the snap-flat pockets, concealed hood, and adjustable drawstring waist and bottom. Again, there may be some variation within today’s modern models, but the result of the combination of these features is unique to the M-65. In fact, you might even notice that many of these aspects are incorporated into numerous other jackets today.

2. Timeless Aesthetic

As we alluded to earlier, one of the M-65’s biggest strengths is the balance it strikes between form and function. It has construction qualities to protect one from the elements, but it also possesses a clean yet rugged aesthetic that is not always easy to obtain. It’s timeless, there is no other word for it.

Returning GIs sported their trusty M-65s on the daily, mixing them with menswear staples of the time, notably blue jeans, which complemented the military silhouette, whilst charmingly diluting its ‘official’ aura. It wasn’t long before these beautiful jackets infiltrated civilian consciousness, most notably counterculture & anti-war movements, which saw ‘hippies’ adopt the M-65 and other field jackets as a symbol of rebellion. Retrospective appreciate for the sartorial flavour of these movments of the 60s and 70s has only bolstered appreciation for olive drab jackets like the M-65.

The M-65 has featured in a range of non-war films set in the 60s, notably Serpico, Taxi Driver, and Rambo: First Blood. These pictures have only served to fortify the ubiquitous aura of the M-65.

3. Pure Versatility

As well as being easy to style, the M-65 is easy to wear in a range of environments thanks to its rugged design. While it ironically didn’t perform all that well in the field, it can wrangle the comparatively less tribulous conditions of modern-day living with ease.

Given the great physical maleability of the M-65, it’s literally perfect for layering with any other type of garment, from a simple t-shirt or polo to a thick sweater or shirt (as pictured on Pacino above). Indeed, the combination of just these two qualities is what helps the jacket soar past the test of time.

Whether you prefer a more loose and relaxed fit or a fitted/ slim cut, you would be hard-pressed not to find a comfortably fitted M-65, particularly with the extra lining and adjustable waistband drawstrings.

Our Top M-65 Jackets

True vintage hounds would accept nothing less than the genuine article, and for that, there’s eBay. But for those who prefer to buy new and have their clothes smell nice, there is a wide range of makes and models for reproduction M-65 jackets. Here are our top picks:

Entry Level – Alpha Industries M-65 Field Coat

Alpha Industries is to M-65 jackets what Levi’s is to denim. As a military wear producer for over 50 years, Alpha has earned the enviable title as one of the primary suppliers to the U.S. Army and Navy since 1959. Not only do they specialize in the M-65, but also myriad other staple military apparel, including the sibling MA-1 flight jacket and various heavy-duty, incredibly technical pants and other garments.

Alpha offers a decent M-65, but it is modern and of lesser quality than the options below. The shell is polycotton, rather than 100% cotton sateen, which, while improving water resistance, doesn’t have the same slubby texture as the originals. Alpha Industries jackets are also relatively mass-produced in China, rather than in smaller batches by a conscious maker. That said reviews are solid and if you want to get into the style under $300, this is a great option.

Available at Alpha Industries for $225

Mid Level – Cockpit USA M-65

Cockpit USA also has an illustrious history of supplying military garb to the United States Government since 1980, but they make all of their pieces in the USA to higher production standards. Their M-65 isn’t a reproduction of an older pattern, but is a formidable option made to military specs in the USA.

Cockpit USA also goes up to 6XL, a rarity in the world of heritage-quality garments.

Available from Cockpit USA for $495

Mid-Level – Buzz Rickson’s BR11702 M-65 Field Jacket

Buzz Rickson’s made an absolutely scintillating M-65. Using original pieces as their blueprint, they produce each Field Jacket in Japan using high-quality period-correct materials.

When it comes to comparing Buzz to and McC0y’s (below), one could argue that you’re splitting proverbial hairs. It’s hard to say that Buzz gear is ‘mid-level’ when in reality, it’s miles ahead of most makers, but it definitely produces garments in higher numbers than the most expensive and exclusive Japanese reproduction labels, and its prices are on average 30% less. If you offered me the choice of a Buzz or McCoy’s M-65, I’d simply choose which one fitted better.

Available for $495 from Franklin and Poe.

End Level – The Real McCoy’s

As one of the most revered Japanese vintage labels, The Real McCoy’s seeks creative inspiration within American workwear and fashion from various eras of the 20th century. As they’re so dedicated to producing the best possible military repro wear, they offer an unparalleled level of craftsmanship in their collections, using top-tier custom woven materials, manufacturing techniques, and machinery from this time period.

If you’ve decided you want an M-65 and you want the best, this is it. Period. They make both patterns, both using period-correct materials throughout. The only difference from the originals is that these are made better in an act of worship to classic Americana design.

Both patterns are available at $830 at Clutch Cafe.

Looking for the Fishtail?

The fishtail version of the M-65 is a different beast. To learn about this piece, check out The History of the Fishtail Parka – M-51, M-65, Mods, and Buyer’s Guide

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