July 2 - Indigo Tees

Author

David Shuck
July 02, 2024

Together with

/ Five Plus One /

Indigo-Dyed T-Shirts

I don’t know about you, but I get seriously bored of plain ol’ t-shirts. You know, white, grey, black, etc. The OG Three. I love them, but at the same time find myself yearning for a bit more character from my tees, especially in the warmer months when I’m in a tee most days. One answer to this conundrum of sorts is indigo-dyed t-shirts.

Whether yarn-dyed or overdyed, indigo-dye t-shirts age like no other by fading with wash and wear, creating a garment unique to its wearer. So if you like indigo dye and want to break from your tonal t-shirt chains, this edition of Five Plus One is for you.

Indigo is part of RRL‘s DNA, with denim underpinning the Ralph Lauren sub-label’s collections. With this in mind, it comes as no surprise that RRL makes a lovely looking indigo-dyed tee.

This Indigo Cotton Crewneck Pocket Tee from RRL is crafted from an indigo-dyed slub cotton jersey, which has been rinsed to emulate the look and feel of a vintage ‘lived-in’ tee. That said, there’s still some fading to be had from this slim-fitting T-Shirt, which has a sewn-on crew neckline and singular chest pocket. Size up for a looser fit, or go true and show off that summer body you’ve been working on.

Available for $125 from STAG.

If you want to start afresh with dark, unwashed indigo, look no further than the UES Indigo Pocket T-Shirt.

Coming in a slim fit with a singular chest pocket, the UES Indigo Pocket T-Shirt is made in Japan from indigo rope-dyed long-staple cotton. UES has used varying shades of natural indigo dye during the rope-dyeing process on this cotton jersey, a technique which will yield various hues of indigo and lighter blues as the t-shirt fades.

Sleeve cuffs articulate the fit further, while a bound crewneck means the neckline will keep its shape through years of wear. Happy fadin’.

Available for $90 from Redcast Heritage.

It would be weird if Pure Blue Japan didn’t make an indigo-dyed t-shirt, but they do, so everything’s okay here. The Japanese indigo aficionados are coming correct with this Jersey Crew Neck S/S T-shirt in ‘Middle Indigo’.

PBJ has constructed this t-shirt from a super soft 100% cotton jersey, loosely knit from indigorope-dyed cotton yarns. That means the yarns have been bunched into ropes and dyed in an indigo bath — a technique typically used by Japanese denim manufacturers to create raw denim fabrics. The finished t-shirt has then been washed to create this gorgeous ‘Middle Indigo’ color that has given you a headstart in the fading department.

Each t-shirt is made holistically in Japan and features a trim fit, so size up if you want a regular drape.

Available for $142 from Blue in Green.

There’s a lot to be said about manufacturing ethics in the clothing industry. Fast fashion has reached a point of pure chaos, but thankfully our niche is full of makers who a) make smaller amounts of better clothes, and b) use mindful production techniques. Slotting into point b) is Japan Blue, who’ve produced some high-quality T-shirts using recycled denim.

Made from yarn-dyed knitted fabric that contains 50% recycled cotton denim yarns, this tee is a product that reduces fabric waste and comes in a range of beautifully speckled hues. We’re expecting this fabric to evolve with wear and subsequent washes, much like your favorite jeans. And thanks to the trio of indigo tones available, it’s easy to pair these Japan Blues tees with any shade of pants, from crispy raw selvedge denim to battered, faded jeans or even chinos/fatigues.

Each Tee is crafted in Kojima, Japan, and available at Redcast Heritage Co. for $86.

If you liked the look of the aforementioned UES Indigo Pocket Tee (no.2 in this list), but don’t mess with slim fits – the Momotaro MXTS1006 Yarn-Dyed Indigo T-Shirt offers a similar package but in a relaxed fit.

Momotaro’s MXTS1006 T-shirt is made in Japan using a cotton jersey knitted from yarn-dyed Zimbabwean cotton yarns. Known for its soft and highly textured properties, Zimbabwean cotton is a mainstay amongst high-quality Japanese denim makers like Momotaro. The yarn-dyeing process gives rise to a deep, inky indigo colorway that will develop cerulean hues with wear and washing. This is as close to jeans as a T-shirt gets!

Available at Redcast Heritage for $130

You can always count on Studio D’Artisan to offer something unique that champions age-old Japanese crafting techniques. In this instance, SDA stands out from the crow with its 8056Mt. Fuji T-Shirts.

Made in Japan, each Studio D’Artisan Mt. Fuji Tee is hand tie-dyed with indigo and discharge printed with Katsushika Hokusai’s “Under the Wave off Kanagawa”, an image that looks brilliant on a lush pallette of varying indigo hues. These mindful dyeing and printing techniques have been applied to a regular-fitting t-shirt, made from 100% American cotton and washed once to remove most of the shrinkage.

Available for $149 from Brooklyn Clothing.

/ In Partnership with Gustin /

When the famous Cone Mills White Oak plant in Greensboro shut down, Vidalia Mills stepped in to keep the tradition of authentic American made selvedge denim alive.

It starts with certified, sustainably grown American cotton. This core building block is transformed by vintage Draper X3 shuttle looms, previously used by Cone Mills, that were lovingly re-energized by Vidalia in their Louisiana factory. The output is a hefty, 13.5 ounce, well starched, gold-standard raw selvedge denim.

This version goes beyond the standard indigo-on-white composition. The warp retains and inky, extra dark indigo dye. The weft is jet black. There is a wonderful formality to this denim that offers you a much different look than traditional color-on-white selvedge. They stay a bit more saturated at the start, but as you put more time on them the white yarn cores start to get exposed, giving you even more depth and character.

Start a pair for $143 at Gustin.

/ New Releases /

Just in time for summer, Bleu de Chauffe debuts a t-shirt that you can wear all four seasons. Their Champion tee is on the heavier weights we’ve seen and much of that is due to the special interlock knit “double-texture” jersey fabric they’ve made specially in France.

Interlocking essentially laces together two separate knits into the same fabric (see pic), making for a stronger, softer, and heavier final product. The resulting jersey is about 7.5 oz. of Global Organic Textile Standard cotton, nearly double what you’d see on a standard skivvy.

The specially knit fabric is cut and sewn in house by the artisans at Bleu de Chauffe’s Aveyron workshop into a tee that has slightly longer and wider sleeves for rolling, an open scoop neck, and a double-thick collar for an effortless workwear staple.

The Champion tee is available for $50 in Ecru, Khaki, Mottled Grey, and Navy at Bleu de Chauffe.

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Pile Up on Resort with The Real McCoy’s Beach Shirt

Why reach for a beach towel or robe when you can grab The Real McCoy’s Stripe Cotton Pile Beach Shirt in Light Blue?

Modeled after the cabana shirts of the 40s -60s and channeling The Beatles at the beach, this textured stunner keeps the palette low-key, allowing its pile cotton and elegant spread collar to do all the talking. Complete with patch pockets at the hip, a straight hem, and ever-so-elongated sleeves, whether your feet are in the sand or 200 miles from the nearest body of water, liven up your wardrobe without being too peacocky.

Obviously destined for a shorts pairing, I don’t see why you can’t break out the raw denim or perhaps a breezy linen pant for an alternative approach. Just make sure to leave the boots at home and opt for a tennis sneaker or some leather sandals.

Available for $306 from Lost & Found.

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When it comes to leather, Singapore’s Obbi Good Label doesn’t mess around, and their latest tumbled leather collection is no exception. The collection has something for every pocket—from elegant metro fold cardholders to rugged trucker wallets.

Made in Singapore by Obbi Good Label’s group of artisan leather makers from a European cowhide leather that has been taken through a process called tumbling. Tumbling is when leather is thrown together in a big drum and twisted and tossed around to create a unique pattern and texture on each piece of fabric. Tumbled leather is softer and textured but still has the strength and durability associated with leather. It also looks fantastic.

On top of the unique leather, the attention to detail on each piece is second to none. Where hardware is needed, there’s beautiful brass accents including gold or silver plated Obbi Good Label snap closures on the zip wallets. And there’s OGL’s signature embossed logos across the whole collection.

Prices range from $55-$275, available from Iron Heart.

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