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- Jan 19 (Staff Select – Chambray Shirts)
Jan 19 (Staff Select – Chambray Shirts)
Staff Select – Chambray Shirts
Staff Select – Chambray Shirts
With spring on the horizon, we're showing which chambrays from our personal collections work for us, in this edition of Staff Select.
Daniel Rockburn | January 19, 2023
When it comes to high-quality shirting that you can wear every day, chambrays are some of the best out there for many reasons. They’re like the raw denim of the shirting world. For one thing, most chambray shirts are functional as hell (especially if you’re donning a work shirt style).Secondly, they’re effortlessly stylish, almost a style hack. Throw one of these on with a white tee with the sleeves cuffed up, and you just look good, no questions. Not to mention chambray fabric pairs well with almost any bottom you can throw at it – indigo raws, black denim, chinos, fatigues(!), wool trousers — they even look good worn down with a pair of board shorts.Last but not least, they hold up extremely well over time and look all the better for it.This vintage-style indigo cloth is as versatile of a shirting fabric as they come, they’re a go-to for so many denim heads for a reason. They’re typically very lightweight, making them ideal for layering.Chambray also ages much like a denim would. Fades and fade lines develop in areas of pressure and rubbing, the indigo chips off, and the cotton’s white core reveals itself over time. Chambrays and linen shirts are among the few shirting options that actually look better when they’re crocked, frayed, and generally aged.With spring on the horizon, we’re selecting trusted chambrays from our personal collections and telling you why they work for us. We hope you’re inspired to pick up a high-quality light blue shirt of your own to reflect on.Why trust us? Well, we’ve all been in the game long enough to have field-tested a range of quality clothing, and the Heddels operation puts us onto some of the best clothing in the world week in, week out.Whilst our opinions and experiences shouldn’t be taken as definitive, this series will provide you insight into what has worked for us and why.
Ben – Vintage USN Chambray Shirt
In the realm of archetypal clothing, the chambray shirt lives at the equator. Truly a piece that everyone should have at least one of in their closet if they can, it’s a foundational element in any wardrobe. With the ability to cross from casual to semi-casual, workwear to ivy, and just about anything else along the way, it’s nearly impossible to style wrong and can be that trusty piece to revive any fit.
The one I’m sharing is from the 1950s or earlier and belonged to a US Navy vet. I was lucky enough to find it at a yard sale a few years ago and have loved it ever since. It was barely used in service so it retained a deep blue hue and sturdy texture – these can get very faded and super soft with wear. Its blue rounded button-up front and chest pockets are great accents as are the side gussets that repro fans love to see.
The cut is long making it great to tuck in or wear unbuttoned and the short collar keeps things as casual as I want. Some stenciling on the neck and inner tail finishes it off. Easy to wear with light denim, dark denim, black denim, fatigues, or of course, military khakis. It doesn’t get better from where I’m standin’.
Zach – WWII Impressions Navy Chambray Shirt
There is an incredible variety of modern chambray shirts, but sometimes you just need the real deal. WWII Impressions, which specializes in reproductions for the film industry, has a classic light blue chambray that’s perfect for warm weather. This shirt is patterned after a U.S. Navy example — unsurprisingly, from World War II — and it features the appropriate plastic buttons and roomy chest pockets.
Lengthwise, it was meant to be worn tucked, but untucking it is definitely within reason. It’s machine washable but will require some pressing to keep the collar crisp. After a bit of wear and a few washes, the chambray fabric looks great with some gentle fading near the shoulders.Faded or not, this shirt will pair with virtually any other piece of workwear in your closet—especially raw denim. WWII Impressions will bring you some timeless “cool,” from the rolling swells of the South Pacific to the English Channel.
Available for $96 at WWII Impressons, Inc.
Nick – The Rite Stuff Heracles Shirt
When friend and Heddels writer alum, Bryan Shettig, first hinted to me about his side project and occasional visits to John Lofgren, I knew he was cooking up something special. Months later Bryan introduced the world to his vintage repro brand, The Rite Stuff, along with the mighty 5 oz. chambray Heracles Work Shirt.I immediately hopped on the debut piece and have not been disappointed since. The scalloped yoke, repro catseye buttons, and ventilation eyelets are as true as one could ask for to the original 1920s design, along with all of the neat construction details, e.g. triple chain stitched seams and reinforced elbows (a godsend for this desk jockey that constantly blows out shirt elbows).As someone with a personal connection to The Rite Stuff, it’s been such a treat to see the brand evolve, even the OG Heracles shirt itself. Compared to my 2017 version, it now packs a bit more punch with a chin strap, pencil pocket, worker’s tag, and a bunch of other perks that I’m probably missing.Even with the iterations, it’s still milled and made in Japan at John Lofgren’s factory, and is currently available for $235 from The Rite Stuff (pre-order Feb 2023).
Jack – Vintage J.C. Penney’s Compass Chambray Shirt
In my view, the chambray is workwear’s silent workhorse. Would all those old pictures of miners and farmers look half as good if there wasn’t a chambray shirt interfacing their
jeans and jackets? I doubt it. As essential to any wardrobe a hundred years ago as they are today, I was fortunate enough to find a 1950’s
Penney’s
Compass chambray on a picking trip over the summer, and I’ve scarcely taken it off since.
In such a short time, it’s found itself at the front of the button-ups in my closet. Whether I’m stepping out for groceries, sewing in my studio, or grabbing a bite after work, this chambray connects all the dots. As with all my clothing — and perhaps I’ve discovered the foundation of how I evaluate a worthwhile garment, here — I expect a hundred years of consistent wear from this shirt.
Considering it’s held up so wonderfully over the past seventy, I don’t see why it can’t make it another three-quarters of a century. Especially with my love of repairing old clothing.
Most particularly, I can’t shut up about the band collar. While I’m not opposed to wearing multiple traditional collars at once, the band collar is a game changer when it comes to layering. All of a sudden I can layer a sweat, this shirt, a cardigan, and a jacket, all in the most seamless and casual silhouette I can imagine.
Beyond the collar, it has a perfect cut that wavers between fitted and roomy, allowing me to style it with slim and oversized looks. And while it doesn’t tote the iconic selvedge gusset, the fabric keeps me warm in the cooler months with a sweat underneath or works well as a stand-alone shirt in the warmer months.
Once again, I apologize for championing a vintage piece, and while I was able to find a few band collar shirts from our favorite brands, I was not able to find many band collar chambrays, so there may be a bit of a gap in the market there—looking at you Rite Stuff Bryan.At the time of writing, though, Kerbside & Co. are selling the last sizes in their Band Collar Shirt for just $65.
Brad – United Arrows x J.Crew Chambray Shirt
If I’m being honest with myself, the reason that I wear chambray shirts all the time is because I’m lazy. I worked in the fashion industry for a decade and I’ve been writing about men’s style for a few years now. So you would think that I can throw together envy-inspiring ‘fits with minimal effort. This assumption would be reinforced by a browse through my closet, brimming with nice things that I’ve accumulated over the years. Maybe you’re right, maybe I could. But more often than not, I just throw on a chambray
.
In my professional opinion, the chambray shirt is the ultimate style cheat for men and women. Without fail, it looks good with everything, so you can pick any pants or shorts at all and you’ve got a ‘fit. You can wear a pearl snap western shirt with black chinos and Chelsea boots. Then you can wear that same shirt with floral print linen trousers and $1,000 loafers. Dressing way down? They go with sweats and sneakers. Dressing way up? You can wear a chambray with a tuxedo, just ask Ralph.
My top go-to chambray shirt is a collaboration between
United Arrows
and
from 2013 that was sold exclusively at The Liquor Store. It is 60% linen and 40% cotton, and what really sells it for me is the perfect mother of pearl snaps.
My other two chambray western shirts are an eight-year-old
Barstow that came in a dark unwashed finish and that has worn in nicely, and a new-ish medium wash
with bone white snaps.
Daniel – Iron Heart 5oz. Cotton/Linen Chambray Shirt
Iron Heart‘s Cotton/Linen Chambray Shirt is one of the toughest chambrays out there, and it’s 40% linen. Like everything IH does, the fabric has been meticulously milled, and the shirt meticulously constructed. That’s one of the reasons I love this chambray, it’s completely solid, and I know it’ll last an incredibly long time.I also love the fact that it’s versatile. It can be worn dressed up on its own with a white tee and trousers for a semi-formal occasion or worn down casually with just about anything else, and it still looks good (noticing a theme, here?) Layering with this shirt is incredibly easy and thanks to the fact that it’s lightweight and thin, it’s good to go no matter the climate.Available for $300 from Iron Heart.
James – Dawson Denim x Triplstitched Chambray Shirt
I won’t harp on about the versatility of a chambray shirt, as it looks like we’re all singing from the same hymn sheet here at Heddels HQ. That said, this chambray from Dawson Denim does go with everything I own, hence it gets a lot of wear.The shirt is made in collaboration with London-based shirtmakers, Triplstitched, who built this thing on vintage machinery from Dawson-sourced 5 oz. Japanese selvedge chambray.I’m actually super fussy with shirting, and struggle with long lengths and slim fits. But this piece is super neutral in terms of the silhouette – shorter in length but not boxy, fitted in the right places but not slim. Mix that just-right shape with Japanese chambray and you’ve got a winner.
Still available from Dawson Denim for $260
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