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- Fade Friday – The Real McCoy’s 991BK (3 years, 10 soaks)
Fade Friday – The Real McCoy’s 991BK (3 years, 10 soaks)
/ Fade Friday /
Fade Friday – The Real McCoy’s 991BK (3 years, 10 soaks)
When people hear that this website is what I do for a living, one of the usual questions is, “How many jeans do you have?” But the answer is a rather underwhelming two pairs. I wore these 991BKs from The Real McCoy’s on most days for the last three years, and I really, really like them.
I bought them shortly after I moved to New York City in 2015 and wanted some black jeans. My criteria were dark weft, slimmish, minimally detailed, and preferably unsanforized. The Real McCoy’s is usually much more staid in their designs, opting for wider WWII-era cuts, but their trim 991 cut in this loomstate, grey weft, 12.5 oz., ID-less denim fit the bill perfectly.
They required close to no break-in, and I hardly wore anything else after I first put them on. They spent most of their days pressed against an office chair as I hunched over a keyboard working on this site but also as I bike-commuted near daily in New York; drove across the U.S. a couple of times (rode the train one more); attended tradeshows in Las Vegas, LA, and Amsterdam; toured factories in Maine, Karachi, and Montreal; and were part of a Jaws Quint costume I did for our CO-OP #2 collab hat.
After all that, I really didn’t want to let them die. The first blowout came from my phone through the front pocket at about the six-month mark, and the crotch went out a few months after that. I do all my own repairs on a home sewing machine, just back and forth over the problem areas with cotton thread over and over and over. After two years, I was repairing them at least once a month. All that biking caught up with me and I re-darned the crotch over a dozen times. Eventually, the new thread wouldn’t take, so I had to back the repairs with muslin fabric (hence the inverse diaper look on the inside).
I’ve repaired many other jeans in the past, but I took it to the level of diminishing returns here. This is my best summary of all the work I did on this pair of pants:
Crotch darn x 12+
Knee darn x 2
Back pocket reinforcement x 2
Front pocket reinforcement x 5
Pocketbag replacement
Coin pocket repair
Phone hole darning x 4
Belt loop restitch
Back patch restitch
Buttonhole reinforcement x 3
Part of this repair obsession was because The Real McCoy’s stopped making these jeans shortly after I got mine. My pleas to Kento were answered, though, when I saw them pop up on the McCoy’s website again, and I immediately got another pair. The denim is a little bit heavier and the fit a little larger, but these are still my favorite pair of jeans, and I look forward to many more years of wear and repair.
The Real McCoy’s 991BK Raw Denim Jeans
Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim
Fabric weight: 12.5 oz
Fabric source: Japan
Made in: Japan
Fit: Slim straight
Additional Details:
Unsanforized
Deerskin leather patch
Button fly
Available at: Currently Unavailable
/ New Releases /
If you’re looking for a shirt that embodies the depiction of summertime in a Studio Ghibli movie, look no further than 3sixteen‘s Short Sleeve Loop Shirt in a Grass colorway.
Made from a 55% linen, 45% Rayon mid-weight weave, this perfect combatant to high temps features everything you’d want from a short sleever this time of year. From its single welted chest pocket and wooden buttons to its relaxed fit, this chill button-down plays off the natural world in a way that brings any fit down to earth.
Closed out with a standard collar and a button loop closure up top and at the chest that we love to see, whether you pair it with some jeans, shorts, or dare we say linen pants, the only way you could go wrong is if you forget to leave your house with it on.
Available for $198 from Vestis.
They say good things come to those who wait. So, although the new Gustin Horween Chromexcel #8 High and Low top sneakers are part of a crowdfunding campaign and may take a bit to get to you, when they do, you won’t regret a damn thing. That’s what happens when your brand is known for providing incredible value for its customers through a crowdfunding model that matches supply with demand.
Handmade in the Tuscany Region of Italy using Horween‘s famous color #8 chromexcel, no matter which version of the sneaker you gravitate towards, the sidewall-stitched Italian-made Margom rubber sole comes standard. The quality of the leather means you can resole these if ever required. All it takes is a skilled cobbler to stick and stitch a new cup sole onto these bad boys, and you’re good to go again.
Void of any unnecessary design flourishes, the silhouettes are as classic as the materials and craftsmanship used to make them. With simple paneling, a subtle collar, and a small heel tab cobbled together using die-cut leather and single-needle construction, these sneakers are a no-brainer and a two-footer.
Available from $249 from Gustin.
We’ve reached a point where raw denim has become as much about artistic expression and pushing the limits of manufacturing as it is about producing the highest quality jeans possible.
The ONI Crushed Denim series is the perfect example. To the un-indigo-pilled civilian, ‘denim’ and ‘concrete’ don’t sound like the most harmonious of co-conspirators. Even to denim heads, hearing about its heavily textured fabric feel and ‘gravel’ like appearance might cause some concern. But just like runaway and archive fashion, sometimes it’s about going out on a limb. And sky-diving off said limb.
With his dedication to denim manufacturing on full display, the yarns for Mr. Oishi-san’s 15 oz fabric were custom-made at a small historical spinning mill before being put through ONI’s calling-card low-tension weaving process. The neps from these yarns teamed with the irregular weave mean that the denim is worthy of its moniker. This edition of the Crushed Concrete selvedge features an olive weft which, as well as playing off beautifully against the copper and golden stitching threads, will provide an interesting fade profile unlike anything else in your denim arsenal.
This fabric is available across. range of straight, wide, and tapered cuts. But be warned, that last few drops of this fabric have sold out pretty quickly, so we have no doubts that these will also be gone before the concrete dries/
Available for $283 from Blue Beach Denim.
Who would have thought going with khaki was taking a risk, not to mention a fashion-forward move? Not even Jake from State Farm would agree – that is, until Full Count‘s Hollywood Dude Burberry Twill Jacket hit the market.
Made from a cotton twill woven to replicate the look and feel of vintage gabardine, this silky tan jacket is plucked right from the 1950s, featuring the unmistakable short and boxy fit of the era, which pairs perfectly with higher-rise denim. Japanese-made and featuring snap pearl hardware across its placket and 2 flap pockets, come for the refreshing design and stay for the water repellency & natural breathability. After all, sometimes even your truckers need a break for a few days, especially in the impending summer heat.
Available for $345 from Clutch Cafe.
We’ve been waxing lyrical (honestly, no pun intended) about waxed canvas for years, and we ain’t stopping today. Devium has dropped its Overdrive Waxed Canvas Jacket, providing us with yet another waxy, workwear-inspired piece to bring to your attention.
Firstly, this isn’t just another waxed canvas trucker — far from it. Devium’s production model means that every fiber of this piece is from the USA. From the fabrics to the threads, buttons, and labels, every component is sourced in the USA before being sent to California for cutting and sewing. And it’s in CA that these American ingredients are formed into a gorgeous trucker that you can wear all year ’round.
Drawing inspiration from classic workwear blousons, the Overdrive has a slightly boxy fit with room in the shoulders and chest for layering in the colder months. It’s crafted from 10 oz. waxed cotton canvas that provides water resistance and lined with 100% flannel for a comfortable, cozy wear. Available in 3 colorways, each variant has one thing in spades – texture. The waxed canvas has that crinkly look that we know and love, the cotton flannel has a slightly uneven weave and whimsical shadow plaid, and the heavy-duty zippers are made of antique brass that has a mottled appearance from the jump. But even the silhouette provides texture with its straight-cut yokes and welted hand pockets that provide more seams that will pucker up and collect patina.
Each jacket is finished with flannel-lined pockets, adjustable waist tabs to dial in the fit, and devium labels on the front yoke and inside neck.
Available from Devium for $358.
It will come as no surprise that we like clothes with meaning, and Samurai Jeans‘ “Murasame” Slub Relax Straight Jeans takes this very literally. “Murasame” translates from Japanese as “village rain,” but the term refers to the kind of rainstorm that arrives suddenly and disappears just as suddenly, only to rise up again. Samurai have channelled this phenomenon into their 17 oz. Murasame selvedge, with deep dyes and an uneven weave to mirror a stormy sky.
This new Samurai fabric features a deep shade of blue, verging almost on black, with flecks of white throughout, just like a shifting, stormy sky. Their weight and slub give the jeans a strong, uneven texture, reflecting the nature of “Murasame” texturally too. The colour is a result of the fabric being rope dyed, which also means they will fade perfectly over time, creating depth and contrast and just making their name more and more appropriate as you wear them in.
In terms of fit, this release is coming in Samurai’s classic S3000 silhouette, which has a mid-rise, generous thigh, and straight leg. Not too wide and not too slim, this is a Goldilocks straight leg that was initially inspired by 1940s-era Levi’s.
Like all of Samurai’s garments, the S3000VX “Murasame” is made in their hometown of Osaka, Japan, using premium construction methods including chain stitching, jacquard pocket bags, and custom samurai hardware. Each pair is finished with one of the best Samurai leather waist patches we’ve seen in a hot minute, with a matching pocket flasher to boot.
Available from Redcast Heritage for $337.
It’s not surprising that Denimhunters founder, Thomas Stege Bojer, knows a thing or two about denim. His new brand, Weirloom, puts his passion and knowledge about all things denim into practice to launch their WL-001 ‘First edition’ jeans.
Weirloom — a clever portmanteau of ‘heirloom’ and ‘wear’ — has been something Bojer has been conjuring up for over 10 years, and the WL-001 shows this. Even the fit itself is something that has been tried and tested by Bojer himself. Based on a classic five-pocket silhouette, they were designed with comfort and wearability in mind. The WL-001 has a straight leg and the perfect rise, not too high and not sagging. The kind of fit that suits anyone.
To produce the jeans, Weirloom kept things as local as they could to their European home. The WL-001 is being cut and sewn in Portugal from denim woven in Italy. Specifically, the fabric is woven by Candiani, who have been producing denim in their tiny hometown of Robecchetto con Induno, near Milan, since 1938. They use shuttle looms to get their signature selvedge weave in the traditional way. The denim is also woven from regenerative cotton, which means it’s farmed using natural fertilisers and the like. So, these jeans are good for the earth too.
There are 100 pairs of Weirloom’s inaugural pair of jeans up for grabs. They’re a pre-order, so Weirloom is only producing them to demand, which also means they’ve been able to knock €70 off the typical retail price.
Available for pre-order from Weirloom for €180.
A flannel work shirt is a wardrobe staple — layer it up with a down vest for the winter or go loosey-goosey, open over a t-shirt for a timeless summer look. However you wear it, this beautiful ombre plaid number from Skinner American Goods will turn heads.
Skinner American Goods is the brainchild of Daniel Skinner, who single-handedly makes all his garments in the Railroad Square Art District in Tallahassee, Florida, on his collection of almost 20 vintage industrial sewing machines. Yes, almost 20. Each of these salvaged machines serves its own distinct purpose, so all of Skinner’s clothes are the real deal and then some.
This ombre plaid work shirt is absolutely no exception. Skinner turned to Japan to source a gorgeous 8 oz non-brushed flannel that weaves together navy, salmon, black, and puce yarns into an ombre grid pattern. This is complemented by aged copper snap fasteners to give the shirt a vintage-inspired twist. Twin chest pockets make sure that this is a true work shirt through and through.
As with all Skinner American Goods, Skinner himself is crafting these shirts to order so there is a bit of a lead time, but the craftsmanship, robustness, and ethical credentials of this piece make it worth the wait.
Available now for $195 exclusively from Skinner American Goods.
The GAT shoe — or German Army Training shoe — has a long history that involves the Dassler brothers, Jesse Owens sweeping up a load of medals in the 1936 German Olympics, and the sibling rivalry that kickstarted both Adidas and Puma, but that’s a story for another day. The real news here today is that 89 years later, Crown Northampton has perfected the GAT shoe.
Crown Northampton needs no introduction. They’ve been making shoes by hand since 1908 and are now a fundamental part of Northampton’s continuing reign as the world capital of shoemaking. Their GAT shoe, which they’ve named the Adnitt, is a true testament to their commitment to making quality shoes, and the attention to detail is unmatched. The Adnitts feature a custom-cut Vibram sole (resoleable later down the line), calf leather uppers with Janus calf suede overlays, and a cork-filled sole that is usually only found in high-quality dress shoes. This cork will mold to your feet, giving both comfort and support. So, not only are these really well made, but they’re also made with comfort in mind.
So, Crown’s Adnitt GAT shoes are ticking a lot of boxes: rich history, great materials, handmade to order, comfortable, long-lasting, and supportive. Did we also mention they look really good? Like, really really good. There are 5 colours to pick from — brown, black, grey, sand and white — and 3 colours of the Vibram sole as well — black, white, or gum — so you can choose what works best for you.
Made to order for $300 by Crown Northampton.
/ Giveaways /
Whether you spend your time riding two wheels or an ergonomic office chair, Iron & Resin offers a range of rugged goods that channel the spirit of the great outdoors. Rain or shine, the California-based label has something to get you outside and look good while doing it.
We’ve teamed with publishing amigos Carl Murawski, Beastmade Reviews, The Awesomer, The Coolector, StyleForum, and The Fedora Lounge to offer our readers the chance to win another tasty prize pack from Iron & Resin. Worth over $1000 and geared towards your springtime RnR, this prize pack consists of:
To enter, all you have to do is drop your email on this page before 26, May 2025.
The one lucky winner will be notified by email and have 24 hours to confirm their shipping and size information. All entrants will be signed up for all partners’ newsletters, from which you can unsubscribe at any time.
/ Weekly Rundown /
Designing a Life – On my Om
CBP Seizes Shipment of T-Shirts Featuring Swarm of Bees Attacking a Cop – 404 Media
Inside the ROA Design Philosophy of Fusing Fashion & Function – Field Mag
Trainer prices will rise due to tariffs, says Adidas – BBC
Levi’s® x sacai – Levi’s® US
Camping Beyond the Highest Point of the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route – JAPAN Forward
Why thousands of guys are dressing like a Japanese construction worker – British GQ
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