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- Fade Friday – The Flat Head Stockburg Wallet & Iron Heart IHG-020 Wallet Leash (5 Years)
Fade Friday – The Flat Head Stockburg Wallet & Iron Heart IHG-020 Wallet Leash (5 Years)
/ Fade Friday /
This weeks Fade Friday showcases some major leather teamwork between Japanese heavy hitters The Flat Head and Iron Heart. Kevin P from LA has worn his The Flat Head wallet and Iron Heart wallet leash for five years straight and it shows in the best possible way.
Kevin summed it up best saying “Working & riding on motorcycles fades the heck out of everything.” This Megazord of wallet setups has been treated with Saphir Renovateur and brushed with a horsehair brush ever so often but other that, has just been naturally worn.
This truly personal patina highlights the quality of the leathers used on these pieces which show no signs of slowing down by the way. Both items have fierce dark edges and marble like imprints varying in depth which just make you want to skip the break-in period and go right to this look. And although it seems like there isn’t much left to fade, we can’t wait to see how the next five years treat this wallet and leash pair.
/ New Releases /
During WWII, the US military was tasked with creating function-first gear for the troops to wear in varying environments. A by-product of this was a host of garments that would become blueprints for modern-day closet staples-from chambray shirts and khaki pants to olive-drab fatigues. But one design that doesn’t get referenced nearly enough is the M-43 over shirt. Made from a HBT cotton and featuring two large pleated chest pockets, this open-collar hybrid was finished off with 13-star buttons.
Recontextualized as an elevated closet staple, 3sixteen riffs on the classic design by swapping out drab cotton for a sweet, sweet chocolate linen. And yes, that’s 100% linen, not a sneaky 80/20 cotton to linen blend. With the silhouette faithfully intact, this lightweight switch-up keeps it casual and paves the way for year-round layering opportunities.
Available for $265 from 3sixteen.
When Crown Northampton releases a pair of shoes limited to just 30 pairs, you can bank on it being pretty special. For this latest drop, Crown has teamed up with Chicago’s Horween Leather Co. to release a leather that benefits from both brands’ century-old expertise.
The so-called ‘North of Cordovan’, AKA horse butt strips, are taken from the second densest part of the horsehide (after Cordovan, of course). This makes it a perfect leather for sneakers like Crown’s, as the higher density provides a stronger, more waterproof leather. Basically, everything you want from a premium pair of sneakers. North of Cordovan is often too stiff to make into footwear, but that’s where Horween’s experience comes in. They vegetable tan it, tumble it, and finish it with their own casein (an old glazing compound, if you were wondering) treatment.
Obviously — being Crown — we’re not talking about your run-of-the-mill sneakers here. They’ve turned the North of Cordovan into two top-notch pairs of sneakers, their Upton Wholecut and their Overstone Derby. Both the Upton and the Overstone showcase the leather perfectly, and the properties of the Horween material mean that each pair is entirely unique in its grain. Crown also bought up every last bit of “North of Cordovan” that Horween had, so these are a truly limited offering.
Like all Crown shoes, both the Upton and the Overstone are made in Northampton by expert shoemakers, some of whom are second- or third-generation in the trade. There’s a 9–12 week lead time on these, but good things come to those who wait.
Available at Crown Northampton for $500.
Modeled after the iconic Lee Riders jacket, RRL’s Lot 271 Trucker turns on night mode with a blacked-out 13.6oz sanforized denim. Featuring a traditional fit that keeps it slim without constricting your range o’ motion, look forward to a clean silhouette backed up by iconic vertical stitch panels. Speaking of instantly recognizable details, the Rider’s signature zig-zag stitch is represented in full force, as are its adjustable waist tabs and slanted pockets. But in a dreamy departure from the original, the chest pockets on the RRL jacket are curved, subtly giving it a fresh look.
The jacket is closed out with “RRL” stamped buttons and two woven tags, one at the chest and one at the neck, referencing vintage Lee tags from over the years.
Available for $390 from Stag Provisions.
Modeled after an anti-gas smock from John Gluckow‘s personal archive, the Warehouse Lot. JG-20 Parka Sailor’s Pullover is a replica of the WWII over-layer turned fashion darling. Beloved for its unique design, simple functionality, and baggy fit, it’s hard to believe the reference piece is over 80 years old.
Made from a selvedge twill and featuring an original nut button placket, this Gunner has been overdyed to achieve a mystifying faded-out blue hue. Thanks to adjustable drawstrings throughout to ensure a closer fit, we may not need garments like these for their original intended purposes, but boy, are we glad they exist. Closed out with an almost oversized hood and two patch pockets, the line between utilitarian and avant-garde has never been so blurry, and we couldn’t be happier with the results.
Available for $443 from Lost & Found.
Iron Heart is starting SS26 strong as heck. Don’t believe us? Check this Broken Twill Selvedge Denim Work Jacket.
Designed by Shinichi Haraki, who founded Iron Heart back in 2022, the Work Jacket is made entirely in Japan from 14 oz. Broken Twill Selvedge Denim. What is broken twill? The fabric dates back to the 60s, introduced by denim pioneers, Wrangler. It was introduced to combat the persistent issue of fabric twist that was caused by directional torque generated in the weaving process. Broken twill combines right and left hand twill, reversing the weave every 2 warp ends, which creates a zigzag pattern in the weave. This results in no bias in either direction in the weave, meaning no more fabric twist.
Technicality aside, broken twill looks ace and garners unique fades, especially when it’s woven from rope-dyed yarns like this fabric. In true work jacket fashion, Iron Heart’s Broken Twill Denim Work Jacket is complemented by some lovely accoutrements: copper snap waist cinches, single and double needle construction, double chest pockets, and twill-lined handwarmer pockets.
Work Jackets like this simply bang in the springtime, especially when they’re from a top-shelf maker like Iron Heart. For that reason, they’re selling fast, but our friends over at TENDREL have you covered while stocks last.
Available for $485 from TENDREL.
/ Weekly Rundown /
North of Cordovan: Rare Horween Veg Tan Limited Edition – Crown Northampton
Photographer Catherine Lemblé & the Women of Svalbard – Field Mag
The Mystery Behind a Well-Worn WWII Levi’s® Jacket – Levi Strauss & Co.
How Liberation Day Has Really Changed Retail And Prices One Year On – Forbes
An Expanded Version of David Fincher’s Most Divisive Movie Just Hit HBO Max – GQ
LA’s Most Tasteful Burglar – NBC News
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