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- Fade Friday – Tellason Ankara 16.5 oz. (5 Years, 3 Months, 3 Washes, 1 Soak)
Fade Friday – Tellason Ankara 16.5 oz. (5 Years, 3 Months, 3 Washes, 1 Soak)
/ Fade Friday /
This wonderfully worn pair of Tellason Ankara Jeans was submitted by Nick Williams from the UK. While Nick loves wearing denim, he also works with denim. After working for Levi’s for over 6 years as a graphic designer, he took his skills to the next level and created his own design studio called 4th Avenue Graphics. He went on to produce the esteemed publication, Denim Branded, which looks at the evolution and influence of the branding featured on waist patches, rivets, buttons, etc.
This was Nick’s first pair of Tellason jeans, and he has since gone on to purchase 3 more. Worn almost every day for 5 years, these jeans are an example of how awesome fading can be. While not the most contrasty or destroyed pair of denim, the integrity of the jeans is upheld. The almost completely white belt loops accent beautiful whiskering and subtle honeycombs and patina’d leather patch.
Five years and just one crotch repair later, these jeans have easily proven their worth*
You can keep up with Nick and his design work on Instagram.
*It’s worth noting that these are the older version of the Tellason Ankara that featured selvedge denim from the now-closed Cone Mills White Oak plant. New pairs are made with Japanese selvedge from Kaihara Mills, woven exclusively for Tellason to have similar properties to the legendary White Oak stuff.
Tellason Ankara Straight Leg Selvedge Denim Jeans
Fabric: Raw selvedge denim
Fabric weight: 14.75 oz.
Fabric source: Kaihara Mills, Japan
Made in: USA
Fit: Straight
Additional Details:
Mid Rise
Leather waist patch by Tanner Goods
Available at: Tellason for $260
/ New Releases /
Many of us were rocking Whitesville tees long before FX’s The Bear made them one of the hottest heritage menswear items on the planet. Now these things sell out in a flash everywhere, so we’re always on the lookout for decent restocks. So whether you’re an OG Whitesville wearer or Carmy put you on, we’re here to tell you that Redcast Heritage has got all colors stocked up and ready to go.
You know the deal: tubular knit, size up one, wash cold, hang dry, wear, look amazing, etc. I should probably just stop here and let you head over to Redcast, right? You can always check out our review if you’re on the fence, but thousands of Whitesville fans (and one traumatised chef) can’t be wrong.
Stock up in time for spring at Redcast Heritage for $94 (2-pack).
* From August 29th, all shipments to the US from Redcast Heritage ship duty paid; therefore, there are no hidden costs!
Together with
Western shirtsare arguably as big as they’ve ever been. And while menswear’s renewed appreciation for the iconic style has produced some brilliant takes, none are as unique as this piece fromLeft Field NYC. Taking Western Wear to a whole new level, this Left Field Western is made from 9 oz. hand-loomedselvedge denim that’s been hank-dyed withnatural indigo.
Hand-looming is a painstakingly slow process compared to vintage shuttle looms, let alone modern projectile looms. But what that high labor cost buys is a slubby, non-uniform weave that makes each yard of fabric totally unique. It’s something that really has to be seen to be appreciated, but you can see from the images that this is no ordinary fabric. The gorgeous sky-blue tone that echoes mid-century Western Wear denim comes from hank-dyeing the yarns with natural indigo. Also known as skein dyeing, hank-dyeing sees the cotton yarns wrapped into skeins and repeatedly dipped into vats of indigo (in this case, natural pigment from the Indigofera plant) before they’re loomed into denim. Between dips, the bundles of yarn are twisted by hand, which works the dye deep into the yarns but also produces an uneven, slightly grainy texture. If you hadn’t clocked, this is one hell of a denim, full of high-touch, artisanal processes that are rare even in our niche.
Made in the USA using a classic Western shirt pattern, this button-down features pointed yokes on the front and back, dual pockets with pointed flaps, and the all-important snap buttons, which are made from brown pearlized Trocus snail shells. Each shirt is finished with Left Field’s charming Western Wear label before being washed and hot-dried to minimize shrinkage.
Available at Left Field NYC for $325.
Wabi-sabi is a traditional Japanese philosophy that finds beauty in impermanence. It plays a huge part in our niche, where passion for well-crafted goods is centred ont heir ability to decay with grace, and it’s at the core of this very special collaboration between Japanese denim brand Momotaro and Madrid-based denim retailer, Redcast Heritage.
What started as a conversation in Madrid 2 years ago has become a limited run of 200 pairs of jeans in Momotaro’s first-ever Kakishibu-dyed fabric and the first-ever Kakishibu-dyed sanforized denim. Woven from Zimbabwean cotton, this 15.7 0z. sanforized selvedge is truly one-of-a-kind. It combines a pure indigo rope-dyed warp with a weft dyed with a traditional tannin dye made from unripe Japanese persimmon, or Kakishibu.
Now back to the wabi-sabi. Amongst other qualities, Kakishibu is an oxidation dye, which means it gradually deepens and darkens when exposed to sunlight. These will age in a really beautiful way, as the indigo fades, the caramel colour of the Kakishibu will show its face. Ever-changing, and ever more beautiful. Persimmon is a symbol of longevity in Japan, perfect for these limited edition jeans, which are going to look better and better for a long, long time.
Each of the 200 pairs is individually numbered on their pocket bags, which also feature a silkscreen custom artwork that won’t be seen elsewhere. Cut in a classic straight leg silhouette, they’re finished with Japanese indigo Kasuri yoke lining, hidden pack pocket rivets, and a dual-branded waist patch to commemorate this special collab.
Available from Redcast Heritage for $499. Limited to 200 pairs, hesitators beware.
Samurai Jeans have really bought us paper jeans. Because, like so many things, Japan makes paper better. So well, in fact, you can make jeans out of it.
Obviously, we’re exaggerating, but Japanese paper — washi — plays a big role in Samurai’s S0710XX-Washi jeans. Though traditionally used for calligraphy paper and shoji screens, the S0710XX sees the surprisingly hardy washi fibers incorporated into the denim’s weft yarns, while the warp is made from traditional cotton fibers to create this unique selvedge denim.
Despite the denim weighing in at 15 oz, the washi element creates a whole different experience from other jeans on the higher end of the medium weight scale. It harnesses the paper’s natural qualities of being moisture-wicking, quick-drying, and breathable to make the jeans airier than usual with a nice crispness against the skin, meaning these should be super comfortable across all four seasons.
‘710’ refers to Samurai’s signature 710 slim straight silhouette, which has a medium rise, sits comfortably on the thigh before gently tapering toward the hem. Like the denim itself, the fit is transitional and looks equally good with a pair of boots, and it does with a nice canvas sneaker.
Available from Redcast Heritage for $341.
We all know Studio D’Artisan makes one hell of a pair of jeans, so it’s only right that they make something equally special belts to hold them up. Just dropping over at TENDREL is the SDA’s Steel Buckle Leather Belt, a wabi-sabi pant-holder that’s full of charm from the jump.
SDA’s belt is a statement; it’s cut in Japan from a hefty cow leather in either a classic beige-brown natural or a deep black. Both colours will age in very different but no less interesting ways. What makes this even more interesting, though, is the buckle: a handsome piece of hammered steel that will make this accessory the star of the show. The buckle is complemented by hardy steel rivets, while each belt is finished with Studio D’Artisan’s iconic emblem featuring the Osaka 5 brand’s famous animal — pigs!
What tops this all off nicely is that this will likely be the last belt you ever have to buy. Stock isn’t hanging around, though, so be sure to get one while you can if you like what you see (and be sure to size up one from your waist size).
Available in both colours for $195 from TENDREL.
/ Weekly Rundown /
Needby Vintage founder Tsuyoshi Kikushima on crafting a new standard of Japanese denim – TheIndustry.fashion
Cafécore And The Rise Of Coffee Shop Merchandise – Forbes
What’s Next for Denim Head Culture? – Sourcing Journal
Why It’s Harder Than Ever to Start a Shoe Brand, w/ the Shoe Snob Justin FitzPatrick – Stitchdown
Is Wool the Miracle Material the Outdoor Industry Says It Is? – Field Mag
Scottish Red Deer Suede from Barrhead – Crown Northampton
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