- Heddels
- Posts
- Fade Friday – Sugar Cane 1947 (3 Years, 3 Washes)
Fade Friday – Sugar Cane 1947 (3 Years, 3 Washes)
/ Fade Friday /
For this week’s Fade Friday, we have a pair of Sugar Cane 1947 jeans that have been worn for 3 years and given 3 washes, likely one a year. After seeing so many fades week in and week out, it is easy to look at a pair and take it for granted because we mainly just see the finished product. But we need to take a step back and remember that pairs like this take time and dedication to evolve. So, although we are seeing some nice fades today, just understand they were three years in the making.
These jeans, which come to us from Heddels reader Gene, are fairly dark due to the selective washes. However, within this darkness, there are layers and layers of different blue hues that emerge, giving this pair a shadowy appearance. This is especially prevalent in the whiskers of the jeans because the dark areas between the fades are just as striking as the lap lines themselves. The wear on the edges of the knees is similar in that both the fades themselves and the areas between the fades create a mysterious look.
For the most part, the backside of these jeans is evenly worn out, with the seat and honeycombs being the most eye-catching. But what I find to be the most exciting about this pair is the tears. For any denim head who has worn a pair of jeans constantly knows that fades are not only an indication of a loss in indigo but a wearing away of the fabric itself. So when I see rips like this, I know that they were worn so hard that some points in the jeans began to give out. The asymmetrical and organic look that results is one of complete individuality. Some may choose to mend these tears with patches, but there is something to be said about embracing the gnarliness and deconstruction.
Sugar Cane 1947 Raw Denim Jeans
Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim
Fabric weight: 14 oz.
Fabric source: Japan
Made in: Japan
Fit: Straight
Additional Details:
Button fly
Leather patch
Available at: Franklin and Poe for $210
/ Latest News /
It’s always nice to get closer to products you see and talk about regularly, but it was especially nice to take a closer look at Russell Moccasin‘s ‘The Life of The Boot” documentary, which just premiered on YouTube. Often cited as the best Moccasin maker in the world, Russell reveals all behind the meticulous crafting of their Backcountry Boot and makes a serious case for us to agree with that notion.
This documentary takes you through Russell’s proprietary double-vamp moccasin construction process, from wet lasting to water-resistant techniques, hand-stitching the moccasin toe, and beyond. Shining the spotlight on just how much manpower goes into crafting a boot of this caliber, you can see why Russell has a loyal following of outdoor folk and fashionistas alike. If you’ve been on the fence about a premium moccasin from the Wisconsin-based maker, this video will likely seal the deal. Or if you’re like me, it’ll just add another grail to your list.
But above all, I believe content like this is essential for exhibiting the heritage, commitment, and artisanal skill behind products like a Russell Moccasin boot. It’s all well and good being told something is of top quality, but being educated and visually connected with how and why something is worth your attention is far more important.
You can watch the documentary over on Russell Moccasin’s YouTube Channel.
/ New Releases /
Meermin already had a stacked roster of quality loafers, but it’s showing even more commitment to the slip-on style with the development of its NOVA last. Designed to have a roomy forefoot and a flat, round toe for an elegant yet casual look, Meermin’s new NOVA last is available across a range of unlined loafers. Let’s take a look at some of the highlights.
First off, we have to talk about the 514360, a Venetian-style loafer available in a trio of lovely suedes from C.F. Stead. We don’t see enough Venetian loafers in the game, and Meermin is looking to change that, all while adding their own twist on this minimal style with a taupe-colored rubber sole that makes the 514360 better for traversing the city at a canter. Every pair features hand-sewn detailing around the apron, which finishes off this oh-so-clean silhouette with an artisanal flourish
The 514270 is another special release. Underpinned by classic penny loafer DNA but built on the new NOVA last, these beauties are set off by smooth leather piping around the apron, which is mirrored around the collar of the loafer. These are available in navy or brown Italian suede, or in full soft calf leather.
You can find these and many more loafer options over at Meermin, including the 514511 loafer, which is available in a swathe of leathers, from classic black soft calf to pea green suede. Whatever silhouette or leather you’re interested in, you can rest assured that each pair is handmade with Goodyear welt construction that allows them to be resoled if ever required.
Available at Meermin from $215.
Way before Kendrick Lamar single-handedly brought flares back into popular consciousness at the Super Bowl, Tokyo’s Sugarhill were hard at work bringing flares into the modern day with beautiful, slubby Kuroki Mills denim.
Bringing bell-bottoms to the 2020s is a brave move, but Sugarhill has done it in serious style. They’ve combined the iconic ’70s silhouette from their signature “JIMI CLOTH” that they developed with Kuroki Co. in Okayama. The “JIMI CLOTH’ is an exclusive 12.8 oz LHT denim that features a warp and weft both made of Zimbabwean cotton. What makes this cloth extra special is that rather than combining a dyed warp with an undyed weft, it combines a pure indigo dyed warp with a light beige dyed weft, which gives it an unbeatable depth of colour. It’s also woven as a left hand twill, which creates a softer fabric and more uniform structure, that will result in fuzzy, vertical fading with wear.
The silhouette is something to be marvelled at, too. A short rise, thigh and knee means that the flared bottoms really do the singing. Groovy.
Available for $289 from Wallace Mercantile Shop.
Nothing says summer like a shirt-short co-ord. Especially when the shorts are swim shorts. So ditch the Speedos, Toronto’s Bather is here with its new “Dizzy Boa” sets have given us the perfect combination to wear from the beach to the bar, and back again.
Since 2013, Bather has been producing locally-made men’s swimwear in an attempt to redefine what we mean when we say “resort-wear“. These sets are a perfect embodiment of Bather’s mission. They combine a Portuguese-made 100% linen camp shirt with their Canadian-made 5.5-inch inseam recycled polyester swim trunks, complete with Bather’s custom hand-drawn boa constrictor printed wrapped around the sleeves and legs. They’re not shy on the colours either — Bather is letting you choose between a trio of summer-ready colours: light oat yellow, a deeper ochre yellow, and an ivy green.
For too long, men’s swimwear has been reduced to being too technical, mass-produced, or just plain ugly, but Bather set out to change that with quality products you can actually wear away from the pool, too. With prints like this, they’ve not only achieved that but made something that is truly a lot of fun to wear.
Shorts available for $100 and shirts available for $150 from Bather.
You may hear someone bemoan modern denim for not being what it was like back in the proverbial day. Well, next time that happens, send them this article because Freenote Cloth‘s Ortega Pant in 11 oz. Indigo Denim is part of the movement keeping the heritage of hardwearing pants alive and well.
Made in a full-cut including a generous rise and tons of upper leg real estate for all my big-thighed brethren, if you feel restricted by a task at hand, just know it won’t be because of the Ortegas. Featuring great details like double-knee reinforcements, triple-stitched inseams, old stock herringbone pocket bags from Japan, and custom metal hardware, Freenote Cloth has taken care of all the details so you can set your sights on fading that glorious lightweight raw Japanese selvedge denim.
Available for $300 from REVOLVR.
/ Weekly Rundown /
Seiji McCarthy Makes Some of the World’s Great American Shoes—In Japan – Stitchdown
Photo Report: Watch (And Camera) Spotting At Leica’s Centennial Celebration In NYC – Hodinkee
The Speed Project: Why Would Anyone Run from L.A. to Vegas? – Field Mag
Premier Builds & Classic Builds Program – Russell Moccasin
Levi’s Sues Premier Brands Group Over Counterfeiting, Trademark Infringement –SJ Denim
Floating Lines – Patagonia Stories
Making leather goods in America – sprezza
Peter Caplowe Interview, The Man Who Brought Evisu Jeans to the West – Jeansland Podcast
Beyond Bode: Why Sentimental Craftcore Is the Next Big Thing in Fashion – Peter’s Prism
What did you think of today's newsletter? |