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- Fade Friday – Samurai S510XX (Unknown Wears, Unknown Washes)
Fade Friday – Samurai S510XX (Unknown Wears, Unknown Washes)
/ Fade Friday /
Fade Friday – Samurai S510XX (Unknown Wears, Unknown Washes)
Bagol over in Indonesia is carrying on the legacy of a pair of Samurai S510XX for this week’s edition of Fade Friday. Bagol scooped up these used jeans at Senen Market in Jakarta in March 2019 and has worn them on a daily basis ever since.
Since discovering these Sams, Bagol has worn them every day for 9 months, except for when it rains. These traveling jeans have survived 2 washes, 1 soak, and 1 crotch blowout from their current owner, and my only question is, why would anyone give up these stunning jeans in the first place? Although I’m just glad they found a caring home.
These straight-leg Samurais have seen a fair amount of dye loss, resulting in a washed-out palette of bright indigo tones. This is most apparent on the arcuate-less back pockets, where the indigo has been diligently scraped away, revealing the integrity of the weave. Some charmingly subtle honeycombs have emerged behind the knees, and the hems have picked up some gnarly frays and scuffs.
Whether Bagol is the final owner or only a temporary caretaker, these jeans tell a great collaborative story whilst emphasizing the beauty of second-hand shopping.
/ New Releases /
Upon visiting Crown Northampton and being shown their healthy stock of beautiful leathers, I had the somewhat unique opportunity to see and compare all of the leathers I use and write about daily – all right next to each other. The satisfying “pull-up” effect of Chromexcel, the natural scarring of kudu, the grainy ruggedness of buffalo. Whilst I have my own personal favorites, nothing was as beautiful to the naked eye as Shell Cordovan. The depth of color, the luster, the subtle marbling. It commands a high price, but there honestly is nothing like it.
Crown Northampton’s special relationship with primary Shell producer, Horween, has given rise to this special release of D13 dark Green Shell Cordovan. Launching on the brand’s ever-popular Harlestone Derby and brand new Abbey Oxford, the elusive D13 Shell is exhibited on two world-class sneakers that exhibit the best of shoemaking.
The D13 Shell Cordovan is a very dark green: think of deepest emerald and racing greens with a touch of the darkest blue ink you can think of, and you’re nearly there. Expect a rich patina with subtle pops of seafoam green, grassy tones, and more — each pair will be totally different and unique to its owner, a journey that starts at the Crown Northampton Factory, where every order is made to order, with consideration for every customer’s needs.
The new Abbey Oxford bolsters Crown’s roster with a more formal style that can traverse weddings, the office, and more, whilst remaining down to earth enough to rock with a pair of raw denim jeans or fatigues, thanks to its masterful balancing of a closed lacing system with a Flat Lactae Hevea sole. Both the Abbey Oxford and Harleston Derby come with a choice of three sole colors – black, gum, or off-white.
Back to my visit to Crown Northampton’s factory and HQ. What I also witnessed was the true labor of love that goes into each and every pair, with each craftsperson honoring both their Northampton shoemaking heritage and the storied leathers they are working with. Each pair is built to be completely re-soleable, using a range of tools and shoemaking techniques pioneered in the home of British shoemaking. So not only does purchasing a pair of these mean investing in world-class footwear, it means investing in the preservation English tradition that shaped the world of shoemaking as we know and love it today.
Available at Crown Northampton from $1,000
Long before it became a style staple, the liner was a piece of workwear used to make servicemen’s M-65s suitable for harsh winter conditions. And while the OGs will always have their place, their wide-armed and generally oversized fit isn’t for everyone.
Enter Iron & Resin‘s Hudson Jacket, a homage to the liners of yore, made up in a rugged nylon ‘Fujitreck’ with cotton twill welting reinforcements on the button placket, pockets, and rear yoke. The silhouette has been cleaned up with a regular fit, easy-access D-pockets, and the all-important addition of ribbed cuffs. The originals had wide, open cuffs that buttoned into their corresponding field jacket, which can make them hard to style for some folks. As such, the ribbed cuffs on the Hudson make all the difference, articulating the sleeves, keeping the wind out, and making it even easier to layer.
Vintage M-65 Liner (via Rokit) vs. Iron & Resin Hudson Jacket.
Lightweight insulation means the Hudson can take the edge off colder weather without weighing you down, making it the perfect companion for the transition to fall and beyond. And when the temps plummet, you can go old school and layer this under your favorite coat for serious heat retention.
Coming in Olive, Tan, and Blue Steel, each Iron and Resin Hudson Jacket comes with custom metal buttons, a branded label below the left pocket, and a handy locker loop in the neckline for when you return to base.
Available at Iron and Resin for $119.
Ever committed to locality & British shoemaking, Crown Northampton headed to North Bedfordshire to procure some special leathers from Tusting & Burnett.
Though Crown only had to drive half an hour to Tusting & Burnett, these leathers come from slightly further afield. These special skins come from a farming cooperative in Northern Nigeria, where they are tanned by hand using Begaruwu seeds grown exclusively on local Nilotica trees. During the hand tanning process, the skins are twisted, which gives them an incredible natural grain pattern that is unique to this material. Given the hyper-locality of the tanning process, you could even say the leather takes on a kind of terroir — like you see in food products like coffee and wine.
Produced by Tusting and Burnett for over half a century, Mad Dog was a clear choice for Crown. However, they’ve also used some other phenomenal leathers in this collab collection. Namely, Tusting and Burnett’s own Sokoto, another African-tanned goat leather with a distinct pattern akin to a fresh loaf of sourdough or Dutch Crunch. This skin comes in leather and nubuck varieties, both of which inject a plethora of textures into Crown Northampton’s Jazz Range.
These three leathers can be found across three of Crown’s styles — the Regent Wholecut Show, the Artizan Belgian slipper, and their renowned Adnitt Gat Shoe. Any suede overlays or panels are cuts of super-rare Kudu suede, produced by the world’s kudu specialists, C.F. Stead.
Whether using one or a combination of any of these fascinating leathers, any of the Jazz Range will develop a patina like you’ve never seen before.
Available exclusively from Crown Northampton at $300 for the Wholecut and the Adnitt and $285 for the Artizan.
When you hear that something is made of unbleached cotton, you’re automatically thinking that classic off white, ecru color. Unbleached Apparel‘s latest Foxfibre T-Shirt is about the change all that.
A beautiful caramel shade of brown, Unbleached’s Tee is made of Foxfibre®️Colorganic®️5.5oz 80-B dye-free cotton developed by cotton breeder, inventor, and founder of Natural Cotton Colors Inc., Sally Fox. Back in the 1980s, Fox was the first person to breed and invent a species of naturally colored cotton that could be made into thread. Traditionally, white cotton is the only cotton that has fibres that are long and strong enough to be threaded, but Fox single-handedly weeded, grew, and harvested colored cotton that was long, strong, and threadable — and thus named and patented in Foxfibre. All produced without chemicals and pesticides, Foxfibre is as environmentally friendly as you can get.
For this special T-shirt, Unbleached Apparel has got their hands on some Foxfibre that was grown natively in New Mexico, knitted in New Mexico, and then cut and sewn in Manhattan. It has a triple stitch construction with a unbleached, dye-free cotton — ecru this time — which produces a lovely contrast stitching throughout.
Available for $110 from Unbleached Apparel.
Whether you’re dressing head to toe in heritage-inspired clothing or just fancy yourself some well-made gear, it’s only right that your feet get the same treatment as your legs and torso. After all, spending hundreds on an artisan pair of jeans only to be followed up with big box store socks may be considered a crime in some areas. And by areas, I mean online forums.
Fortunately for you, Allevol‘s Ivy Sock is fresh to market with a selection of old school-inspired socks to complement the rest of your look. Made in Japan, these cotton-blend socks are one-size-fits-all and feature ribbed cuffs for a secure fit. The knit of 73% cotton / 21% nylon / 3% polyester / 3% polyurethane is of a fine gauge, making these perfect to pair with smarter footwear — honor the name by pairing these with some penny loafers and cords. That said, they would absolutely work with a pump or sneaker, just not a pair of hefty boots.
Coming in a swathe of colors from ivory to hot pink, each pair comes with printed branding on the footbed, providing a reminder of the detail and craftsmanship that used to go into sock making.
Available for $24 from Clutch Cafe.
Many of us were rocking Whitesville tees long before FX’s The Bear made them one of the hottest heritage menswear items on the planet. Now these things sell out in a flash everywhere, so we’re always on the lookout for decent restocks. So whether you’re an OG Whitesville wearer or Carmy put you on, we’re here to tell you that Redcast Heritage has got all colors stocked up and ready to go.
You know the deal: tubular knit, size up one, wash cold, hang dry, wear, look amazing, etc. I should probably just stop here and let you head over to Redcast, right? You can always check out our review if you’re on the fence, but thousands of Whitesville fans (and one complexly traumatised chef) can’t be wrong.
Available at Redcast Heritage for $91 (2-pack).
* From August 29th, all shipments to the US from Redcast Heritage ship duty paid; therefore, there are no hidden costs!
/ Giveaway /
Calling all outdoor folk, cool dudes, sun dodgers, and everyone in between: We’ve joined forces with Valet Mag, Cool Material, Carryology, Edgy Albert, The Radavist, and Stridewise to win two pairs of Serengeti sunglasses:
Worth over $700 between them, these two Serengeti shades exhibit the brand’s revered 3-in-1 lens that merges light-adapting photocromic technology, top-quality polarization, and Spectral Control™ to vivify one’s view of the world while blocking harmful blue light. Each pair is handmade in Italy using high-quality materials, state-of-the-art lens fitting technology, and high-touch processes for a handcrafted finish.
All you have to do to enter is drop your email on this page before Monday, September 1. The one lucky winner will be notified by email and have 24 hours to confirm their shipping and size info. All entrants will be signed up for all partners’ newsletters, from which you can unsubscribe at any time.
/ Weekly Rundown /
Vidalia Mills Deeded Back to Credit Union – Sourcing Journal
SSENSE Files for Bankruptcy Protection Under Weight of Tariffs – Vogue
Redcast Heritage to Cover all U.S. Duties – Redcast Heritage
How to Visit National Parks Responsibly – InsideHook
How Miler Designs New York City’s Best Group Runs – Field Mag
The History of Upper Making – Shoegazing
Late Summer Lookbook – Clutch Cafe
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