- Heddels
- Posts
- Fade Friday – Samurai Jeans SO510XX (2 years, 1 wash)
Fade Friday – Samurai Jeans SO510XX (2 years, 1 wash)
Together With
/ Fade Friday /
In the movie Yojimbo, Toshiro Mifune plays an itinerant ronin who manipulates two rival gangs against each other to bring peace to a small town. One of the gangs discovers his plan, though, and beats him so badly that he has to be carried around in a basket for the rest of the movie. And even in that state, the more beat-up looking Samurai would be the jeans you see above.
Heddels Reader Daniel put his Samurai SO510xxt to the test for two years, wearing them while biking, working on art projects, and manual labor all over the world. The 19oz. heavyweight denim has only just kept up to the task, requiring around a dozen repairs from his local Chinese tailor, who has kept them on Daniel’s legs.
The patina, the fades, and the destruction, however, are ultimately things of beauty. Great work, Daniel. Like Yojimbo, may your jeans live on for another two dozen spinoffs.
Samurai Jeans S510XX Raw Denim Jeans
Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim
Fabric weight: 19 oz.
Fabric source: Japan
Made in: Japan
Fit: Straight
Additional Details:
Arcs and red tab
Custom rivets
Printed pocket bags
Button fly
Silver selvedge ID
Available at: Totem Brand for $375
/ New Releases /
We love a watch cap. The iconic piece of headwear has stood the test of time and still looks good on pretty much anyone. The only downside is that sometimes a wool hat can get mega itchy. Not everyone has this complaint, but some folks just can’t deal with wool that close to what can be fairly sensitive skin. Though where there is a problem, there is always a solution — namely, cotton!
Cotton beanies are by no means a rarity, but they are in the world of Japanese reproductions! Scratching that proverbial itch is Buzz Rickson’s, who has recreated their Watch Cap in 100% cotton. The cap itself is inspired by the original US Navy watch caps, introduced in the early 20th Century, and the USAAF A-4 Mechanics Wool Watch Cap. In other words, an icon of modern headwear inspired by two icons of historic menswear. Unlike its predecessors, Buzz Rickson’s latest cotton rendition means two things: it can be worn in milder temps, and it won’t have you scratching your head once it starts doing its job of warming you up. An ideal scenario.
Each piece is made in Japan and finished with a Naval Knitting Mills reproduction tag on the cuff.
/ In Partnership with Iron & Resin /
Swimming shorts are great for active folk who regularly find themselves in bodies of water, but wearing them all day leaves you a slave to uncomfortable mesh linings, short inseams, and a lack of utility other than quick-drying. Iron & Resin recognised this and crafted a simple yet formidable solution – the Solimar Short.
Made from a 90% polyester / 10% spandex blend, the Solimar is lightweight, quick-drying, with a perfect touch of stretch to improve movement. A regular fit with an 18″ outseam provides that perfect silhouette that sits above the knee without approaching short-short territory, and the drawstring waist means there’s no excessive puckering in the waistband. The waistline is also customized with a handy loop for your sunglasses, goggles, bottle opener – whatever you need quick access to in your downtime.
Trail or lake, city or seaside, Iron and Resin’s Solimar Short is a warm-weather companion for anyone looking for a bit more out of their water-ready short options.
Available at Iron & Resin for $79.
Together with
With summer in full swing, Devium has released its latest batch of shirting, featuring three flavors of short-sleeved button-down. Holistically made in the USA from seed to shirt, these new Devium pieces can navigate everything from manning the grill to date night and everything in between. If domestic production, staying cool, and having nice shirts are things you’re interested in, take a closer look with me.
The Lombard and Raleigh Shirts feature a camp collar silhouette with the requisite straight hem, short sleeves, and button placket, but both occupy their own lane. The Lombard sports a classic coke stripe pattern, which looks great in the pistachio and midnight colorways, both of which are constructed from 4.3 oz. 100% organic cotton chambray and garment washed for instant comfort. The Raleigh Shirt is even breezier, built from a 55/45 blend of cotton/linen that comes in Savannah and Artichoke colorways.
Cut from the same linen blend as the Raleigh Shirts, the Balboa Shirt knocks out the competition with a muted stripe pattern that beautifully emphasizes the texture of this flaxen fabric. The Balboa also has a standard point collar, which smartens things up a tad while remaining rugged enough for any summertime operation.
Each shirt is cut and sewn in Southern California using 100% American components, custom hardware, and neat and strong stitching that will ensure these shirts will know what you did last summer…every summer.
Available at Devium for $155.
Tokyo heavyweights HINOYA and A Vontade have teamed up for an exclusive take on the latter’s Easy Fatigue Shorts in a beautiful cotton denim linen mash-up.
Since 2003, A Vontade has been designing premium kits inspired by US and European military, workwear, and sportswear, and their Easy Fatigue Shorts are one of their crowning achievements. The word ‘easy‘ is key here – these shorts are wide and roomy with a deep rise and elasticated waist with a built-in webbing belt. Taking inspiration from vintage climbing pants, they also have a gusseted crotch for ease of movement, and wide, deep pockets at the front. Whether you’re packing carabiners or pocket change, these are sure to come in handy.
Their collaboration with HINOYA has taken it even further in terms of comfort. The duo has opted for a one wash denim made from 20% linen and 80% cotton. This means we get all the iconic aspects of denim, including that beautiful blue indigo coloring, combined with the airiness of linen. This combination is going to age remarkably, summer after summer.
Available exclusively from HINOYA for $190.
Summer can be tough for those who love a jacket. Denim’s out. It’s even too hot for a lighter cotton twill. So we turn to the most ancient of fabrics, linen, if we want an extra layer. If you’ve yet to find that all-rounder summer jacket, American Trench could have covered — literally — with its French Linen Blouson.
The linen in question is made from flax grown in Upper Normandy, a region of France known for its softer and stronger linen. Imported to the US and made into this mighty blouson by American Trench, it has a soft, brushed finish while being both light and sturdy. This texture gives the blouson a fantastic silhouette with a straight hemline and broad body, super easy to throw on with any outfit or even paired with American Trench’s French Linen Pleated Trousers or Track Pants for a more casual approach to summer suiting.
he whole thing is unlined, so there are no extra layers of fabric against your skin when the temperature rises, just breathable, moisture-wicking linen to take the pressure off of your armpits. The collar, however, is structured enough so it lies flat, or you can pop it to protect your neck from the sun’s rays.
Made in the heart of industrial Boston, some nice additional details finish up this unique take on the drizzler, including lined pockets, Italian Corozo buttons on the wrist tab adjusters, and a custom-scripted neck label.
Available for $400 from American Trench.
/ Weekly Rundown /
Tintoremus Studio Launched ‘Re-Dye Corner’ in Madrid – Sourcing Journal
TSA Fit Check – Lost & Found
India apparel sector to be hit by steep 25% tariffs from US – Just Style
Guide – How to prevent and fix water stains on shoes – Shoegazing
At Breaking Point: Black Sabbath’s Sabotage Revisited – The Quietus
BEAMS JAPAN Pop-Up Summer 2025 Info – Hypebeast
Preppy Handbook Turns 45 – Ivy Style
Why Disability-Inclusive Customer Service Is Never A One-Size-Fits-All – Forbes
I Went Back to Skinny Jeans, and It Feels Incredible – GQ
What did you think of today's newsletter? |