/ Fade Friday /

Fade Friday – Samurai Jeans S710XX-DMO (8 Years, 6 Washes, 1 Soak)

These special Samurai jeans come courtesy of reader Aldo over in Indonesia. Samurai has long been regarded as grail-level denim, known for its bold fade patterns and extra-thick slub yarns. This model is a collaborative edition between denim purveyor Denimio, which uses Samurai’s 16 oz. Geisha raw denim, Wabash pocket bags, and tonal “fade-in” arcuates.

Samurai weaves its Geisha denim using exceptionally thick slub yarns, giving the fabric a dense, burly texture synonymous with the brand. Originally rope dyed a dark indigo, years of wear, sun exposure, and humidity in Indonesia have brought out a soft blonde-blue fade in Aldo’s S710XX-DMO. The aging process highlights the irregular yarns, creating a consistent raised texture throughout. Through consistent everyday wear, the jeans have yielded extra-crisp honeycombs, whiskering, and a patinated leather patch. Those fade-to-reveal arcuates have poked through nicely, too.

Aldo wore this pair through college, on hikes, and on motorcycle tours for nearly a decade, giving the denim its lived-in character. Notably, the jeans have never been repaired despite the years of heavy wear, a testament to Samurai’s durable construction, something that was recently questioned by Fabricaterialist. I guess 50,000 Samurai fans can’t be wrong.

/ New Releases /

Go Natural with Freenote Cloth’s Latest Modesto Jean

Most selvedge denim that takes over a year to develop will catch our attention here at Heddels, and the 13 oz. Natural Rinsed Denim on Freenote Cloth‘s Modesto Jean is no different.

Harking back to one of the first fabrics the brand used when it was founded back in 2013, Freenote’s co-founder Matt travelled from their base in LA to Okayama to work with Kuroki Mills on this special denim. The exclusive warp yarn, dyed 100% natural indigo, is paired with a beige-tinted weft that provides a beautiful tone, reminiscent of deadstock. Compounding the vintage vibe is the fact that the fabric is left unsinged, which means, not to get overly technical, it has a slightly fluffy, hairy texture to it — really recreating what vintage denims would have felt like.

The Modestos themselves are a classic wide-straight leg jean with a relatively high rise. Weighing in at only 13oz are great for year-round wear, but arguably perfect for summer with their easy fit and post-sewing rinse that softens them up from the first wear. Made in the USA, they have all the bells and whistles that make Freenote Cloth jeans what they are: custom rivets and buttons, a 2-piece waistband, 1/8″ double needle accents, and vintage Japanese herringbone stripe pocket bags.

Available for $325 from TENDREL.

Shirting to Rely On: Iron & Resin’s Chambray Collection

Together with

Lighter, less complex—but just as useful—chambrayis denim’s younger indigo brother that we’re all secretly rooting for.  Rooted in shirting rather than 5-pocket jeans, chambray began its life as a plain weave fabric in 15th-century France, but earned its stripes as workwear in a rapidly developing North America. 70 years before it would be enshrined in menswear through its use inUS Navyuniforms, chambray was formally endorsed by the American workforce in places like theUS Farmer’s Bulletin:

Chambray’s balance of durability and breathability saw it transcend its utilitarian roots, becoming an ideal 4-season shirting fabric for everyday life. Nearly 100 years later, we still look to chambray for handsome yet reliable shirting, evident in California tastemaker Iron & Resin‘s yearly deployment of the breezy blue cloth.

If you want to get into chambray for the first time or diversify your options, Iron & Resin’s chambray collection has you covered. For a classic dual-pocket work shirt, you can button up the Fairmont Shirt, crafted from 4.5 oz. chambray with hardy, triple-needle felled stitching on critical areas: shoulders, arm pits, and sides. If you want something with a touch more pizazz and Americana charm, Iron & Resin delivers two Western Shirt options with its long-sleeved Glider Shirt—made from the same 4.5 oz. chambray as the Fairmont—and the Badwater Shirt, a short-sleeved Western made up in an ultra-soft washed chambray.

Light enough for warmer days but tough enough to follow you into fall, each Iron & Resin chambray features contrast stitching, a branded neck label, and a lock loop for easy storage.

Available at Iron & Resin from $85.

Whitesville Drops Henley Versions of Its 2-Pack Tees

When I bought my first 2-pack of Whitesville tees over 7 years ago, I never thought they’d be as popular as they are now. People came for The Bear, but stayed for quality and comfort, and now they sell out everywhere, all the time. Building on this success, Whitesville has extended its 2-pack range with these new Henleys, which I’m sure will sell like hot cakes, too.

Made on antique loopwheel machines from the same 7 oz., 20-count combed yarns as the OG 2-pack, Whitesville’s henleys offer the same uber-soft cloth that scored highly in our T-shirt review, but with a three-button henley placket that gives them their own flavor and even more vintage style.

Available in black and white, the Whitesville 2-Pack Henley features contrasting sewing thread and tonal catseye buttons. Just remember to size up one as standard, and size up 2 if you want to be able to wash them hotter/more regularly

Available while stocks last for $65 at HINOYA.

/ Weekly Rundown /

• WWII Levi’s Jacket Sets World Record – Antique Trader

• Growing a Better Cotton Future in Pakistan – Levi Strauss & Co.

• Consumers Won’t See Tariff Refunds. Smart Retailers Will Turn Them Into Price Cuts – Forbes

• Kingpins to Launch New Trade Show Format in Los Angeles – Sourcing Journal

• Burnt by life, tannery workers cling to survival in Savar – BD News

• “It Starts In The Mountains” – An Interview with Yamatomichi founder Akira Natsume – Outsiders Store UK