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- Fade Friday – Samurai Jeans S710XX (21 Months, 3 Washes)
Fade Friday – Samurai Jeans S710XX (21 Months, 3 Washes)
/ Fade Friday /
Samurai is a regular brand in our Fade Friday column. The Japanese label simply makes some of the best denim goods in the game, with this pair of S710XX being testament to that statement. Sent to us by Ferdinand over in Indonesia, this pair of Samurai Jeans x Denimio jeans has been worn for nearly two years, leading them to take on a life of their own.
And while this limited edition pair of S710XX is 3 oz. less than the standard model, the slightly lighter weight hasn’t affected their ability to form the chalky creases that we know and love from the brand. This pair is long sold out, but the 19 oz. model is always available over at Franklin & Poe.
Andrew’s pair has faded down considerably in areas of heavy wear, showing the slubby texture of the denim throughout. That being said, there is whiskering almost everywhere, even in places you wouldn’t expect it. The honeycombs behind the knees are beautifully established and have stacked heavily upon one another, playing off indigo loss in the calves and thighs. There are even some minor stacks in the ankles that tell us Ferdiand wasn’t cuffing these bad boys.
You can follow Ferdinand on Instagram.
Samurai Jeans S710xx Raw Denim Jeans
Fabric: 100% cotton
Fabric weight: 19 oz.
Fabric source: Japan
Made in: Japan
Fit: Mid-rise slim taper
Unique Features:
Raised belt loops
Silver “katana” selvedge line
Branded rivets, buttons, and pocket bags
Available for $335 from Franklin & Poe.
/ New Releases /
What makes a pair of jeans a pair of jeans? Denim? 5 pockets? We’re not here to get into semantics, but we are here to tell you that Gustin‘s linen 5 pockets are back for crowdfunding and are a serious pair of pants (or jeans, depending on your stance).
Built around a 5-pocket construction — and available in Gustin’s usual four fits: Vintage Straight, Straight, Slim, and Skinny — this is a special linen. Slubby and rustic, the 100% pure linen is woven with a chambray weave spun with slub yarns. This all gives it a super unique texture, flowy and light as you would expect from a linen, but with a distinct toughness and heft that comes from its construction. All in all, Gustin has found a way to put their own twist on one of the world’s oldest fabrics.
Gutsin kept the fabric in its organic, natural color that pairs perfectly with your summer shirt of choice — chambray, madras, another linen — or even a crisp white T for the vacation-ready all white ensemble.
Cut, sewn and crafted in California, the crowdfunding for these summer beauties is open now so that Gustin can make sure they’re only making the exact amount they need to — reducing waste and keeping costs as low as possible for you, the consumer.
Available for backing now at Gustin for $99, with an expected shipping date of July/August 2025.
Double-gauze is one of the most lightweight and breathable summer fabrics. And when it comes to double-gauze shirting, KATO should be your first call. They’ve mastered a range of double-gauze button-downs, including a handsome roster of Organic Cotton variants to bolster your summer wardrobe.
Typical single gauze can be weak and a bit too sheer for daily wear. KATO’s double gauze solves this issue with a two-layer construction that improves opacity and fabric strength, all while retaining supreme breathability. Enhanced by an intricate weave pattern that improves airflow and moisture wicking, this stuff feels amazing on the skin and looks great to boot.
If you’re looking to double down on cool, KATO’s Organic Cotton Double-Gauze comes in a range of colors underpinned by two core styles. For easygoing warm-weather goodness, you can’t go wrong with The Wrench. Formulated with the boxy fitting, camp-collar DNA of a Hawaiian shirt, KATO’s Wrench is toned down nicely with a range of beautifully muted tones. You’ve got your classic White, Navy, and Sand colorways, Pale Leaf and Lavender if you’re looking to scratch that pastel itch, and much more. For a classic point-collar shirt with a more modern edge, The Ripper has you covered. This classic, slim-fitting button-down is also available in a slew of colors, including Aqua Blue and Fresh Pink, if you want to swap out your Ivy-style oxfords for something breezier.
Each shirt is made in the USA and comes with a single chest pocket, woven neck label, and custom KATO garment bag.
Available from Hiroshi KATO for $198.
It seems like yesterday I was writing about the opening of Vidalia Mills. The Louisiana mill looked set to be the next chapter of American selvedge denim after the closure of the Cone Mills White Oak Plant, but sadly, Vidalia struggled to remain profitable and shut down in late 2024. Earlier this month, all of the mill’s assets were auctioned off to cover the mill’s substantial debts, including the iconic Cone Mills Draper X3 Looms that Vidalia kept in commission. At the time of writing, we’re none the wiser as to where those looms have ended up. It’s a sad state of affairs.
With Vidalia gone, the American selvedge woven during its short lifespan is a future relic. And with only a limited amount of Vidalia Mills selvedge on offer at present, Left Field NYC is offering some of the most attractive propositions out there. The Made in USA denim stalwart has a range of jeans and jackets made with a collection of Vidalia Mills selvedge denim, all woven from 100% E3-certified sustainable American-grown cotton.
For something classic, you’ve got a 14 oz. indigo raw selvedge. Mid-weight, full of indigo, woven on Draper X3 looms with a red selvedge ID — that’s about as Americana as denim gets, folks. But what about black denim? Left Field has got you. Twice. The 14 oz. Black Maria selvedge doubles up on black with sulfur-dyed warp and weft yarns, creating a hard black denim for those on the dark side. Wash and wear will give rise to smoky grey fades that will contrast against that black bovine leather waist patch. Both of these fabrics are available across all 4 of Left Field NYC’s five-pocket jean silhouettes: the wider Smokestacks cut, the 1950s-inspired Greaser, the slim-tapered Chelsea, and the relaxed-tapered Atlas that has a roomy top block for those with larger thighs. The Black Maria is also available on Left Field’s gorgeous denim blouson, the Mule Skinner.
Just like the Vidalia Mills selvedge, each Left Field product is made in the USA and comes with a range of unique details from custom hardware to bandana print pocket bags, selvedge coin pocket, and the brand’s iconic coal miner waist patch.
Available at Left Field from $230.
Look, Mom, no side seams! John Gluckow‘s wildly popular Netmaker’s Trouser, made in partnership with Japanese heritage-wear giant Warehouse, is back, this time featured in a ‘Used Wash’ so believable you’d think they came fresh out of the turn of the century steamer trunk up in grandpa’s attic – whiskers, honeycombs, and all. And this wouldn’t be the biggest stretch in the world, seeing as this unique design is actually based on a super old pair of denim work pants.
Featuring some exceptional details like one-piece legs — leading to the aforementioned lack of outseams — to its single needle construction, these trews are clearly a feat of modern-day craftsmanship. But the fun doesn’t stop there. With reinforced hand pockets, large rear patch pockets, and 2 asymmetric front coin/watch pockets, the design is validated Americana with an avant-garde twist.
As for fit, you probably could have guessed, but we’re looking at a high rise and a wide cut, which means your legs are about to have a field day. Closed out with a variation on a Sweet-Orr tag ’round back and selvedge details throughout — go ahead — treat yourself to a pair of Japan-made 10-ouncers from some of the most influential names in vintage clothing, we can’t think of a safer piece to invest in.
Available for $385 from Clutch Cafe.
/ Weekly Rundown /
Tour the Gore-Tex Archives & the Most Iconic Gear Within – Field Mag
Young, Scrappy, and Upcycling: Julian Spaccarelli’s Fresh Take on Surplus Style – Selectism
Adidas Announces End to Sourcing Kangaroo Skins for Athletic Shoes – Kangaroos Are Not Shoes
Summer ’25 Lookbook – J. Press
Evan Kinori on Evan Kinori SS25 – High Snobiety
Chatting With Custom Cowboy Bootmaker Jake Houston – Stitchdown
The tip – All shoe eyelets are reinforced – Shoegazing
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