/ Fade Friday /

Fade Friday – Samurai Jeans S5000VX (6 Months, 2 Soaks, 2 Washes)

Our archive of fades from Osaka’s Samurai Jeans just keeps on growing, with this pair of S5000VX 17 oz. being the latest pair to wow us. Courtesy of Heddels reader, Manote, these heavyweight beauties were worn for just 6 months and subject to 2 soaks and 2 washes.

I know what you’re thinking – how did these fade so fast? Well, outside of the short wear time, not much else is known about Manote’s Sams. The quicktime fades may have been expedited by the slub factor of the 17 oz. denim used on this edition of the S5000; the rough hand feel lends itself to quick dye loss and amplified texture, both of which are here in spades. With sharp honeycombs, train tracks, and darning just above the left knee, it’s clear they’ve definitely endured some long days of heavy wear. The whiskers are nothing short of extraordinary, too, sprawling down the lap and even around to the seat.

You can keep up with Manote on Instagram.

/ New Releases /

Y’2 Leather Renders Iconic Denim Blouson Silhouettes in Stunning Indigo-Dyed Horsehide

Sometimes garments come along that just blow you away, and these Y’2 Leather jackets fall into that category. Made from indigo-dyed horsehide, these Type I- and II-inspired leather jackets are the result of sheer dedication to producing a top-quality, indigo-bonded leather capable of producing a gorgeous patina that echoes the palette of faded denim.

You don’t see indigo-dyed leather every day, and for good reason. Bonding indigo dye to high-quality leather is difficult, meaning it took Y’2 years to perfect their method of producing indigo horsehide. The 1.3mm horsehide is initially dyed to resemble a ‘natural’ tone, creating a light beige base layer that will reveal itself as the indigo overdye chips away and fades in areas of high stress. Y’2 has the receipts to back it up, too. Just check those faded examples — they’re nothing short of remarkable.

Y’2 loves to use vintage denim jacket silhouettes for its range of rare and exclusive leathers, and this indigo horsehide edition is available in both Type I and Type II silhouettes that preserve the details of those archetypal blousons, right down to the pleats that run either side of the button placket. Both variations come fitted with 80% cotton 20% linen blend canvas lining and contrast stitching throughout, custom hardware, and unprecedented aura.

Available at Blue Beach Denim from $1,441

Left Field NYC Sews Up Work Shirt from Japanese Kasuri Hanten Cloth

Left Field NYC has always procured rare and interesting materials, but recently, they’ve been leaning even further into the more artisanal side of the fabric spectrum. From their Japanese reproduction of Lee’s early 20th-century Jelt denim to hank-dyed natural indigo and kakishibu denims, Left Field always has something that colors outside the lines while retaining a sense of timeless cool offered by the best Americana silhouettes. The latest fabric to continue this sentiment is a Japanese Hanten Cloth, completely exclusive to Left Field NYC.

Left Field’s Hanten Cloth is woven at a small family-run factory in southern Japan, and features beautiful geometric kasuri patterns throughout. This is the first time this mill has sold fabric to a Western clothing brand, and Left Field is amped to introduce it to their collection.

The term ‘hanten’ (半纏)  actually refers to short coats or vests that have been worn by farm workers in Japan since the Edo period in the 18th century. Typically made from cotton kasuri and/or sashiko fabrics and insulated with cotton padding, they were traditionally used as workwear in the colder months. But Left Field hasn’t made a traditional Hanten coat — they’ve applied two flavors of this artisan fabric to their reliable Work Shirt silhouette, inspired by mid-century American workwear. The result is a totally button-down with which no two pieces are the same, with the kasuri weave having slight variations in each yard of fabric. If, like us, you’re fascinated by the merging of ancient Japanese craft with iconic American clothing, we’re sure the majesty of this Left Field piece won’t be lost on you.

Each shirt is made in the USA and features dual flap chest pockets, reinforced elbow patches, copper/tin reproduction workwear buttons, and triple-needle felled seams throughout.

Available from Left Field NYC for $285.

ONI’s 266HJS Jeans Offer Soft & Stripey 12 oz. Selvedge

When you think of jeans and stripes, you immediately conjure up images of Wabash, but the striped 120z. selvedge on ONI Denim‘s 266HJS pair of jeans is something entirely different.

ONI prides itself on being impossible to mass produce, and by using vintage denim weaving machines that can only be mastered by specific craftsmen, their fabrics are nothing to be trifled with. The 12 oz Jacquard Striped Selvedge Denim used on the 22HJS is the result of the extensive trials and tests of a drop needle weaving technique. This technique allows ONI to produce a denim with beautiful lines built in the fabric itself, without losing any of the strength and texture that their denim is known for. At 12 oz, it’s on the lighter side of the denim spectrum, but that comes with the benefits of it being soft, supple, and easy to throw on every day.

The ‘266’ in the name refers to ONI’s 266 silhouette, a classic, relaxed straight leg with a mid rise. Like the denim, ONI’s accouterments are also top quality: copper rivets, metal donut buttons, and a deer skin leather patch. Read between the stripes, folks, we’re telling you these are really cool.

Available for $255 from HINOYA.

Paraboot Blacks Out Its Avoriaz Hiker in Noir Suede

French legends Paraboot have released the perfect boot for city-dwelling wannabe alpinists, their Avoriaz Hiker in a luscious Noir Suede.

A departure from their classic Michael style, the Avoriaz was initially developed as an approach shoe for high altitude mountaineers by Paraboot’s hike and ski sister brand, Galibier. That was way back in the 1930s, but the modern-day Paraboot has brought the Avoriaz back from the archives with a refresh for city slickers.

Made in Paraboot’s factory in Saint-Jeans-de-Moirans near the French Alps, Paraboot’s century of bootmaking experience really comes to light in these stompers: they slide on easily from first wear and have a nifty tongue guard to keep out the elements. Being Paraboots, they are, of course, Norwegian welted, which improves water-resistance and means that if you manage to wear the sole down on city sidewalks or the mountainside, it can be replaced over and over again.

What’s not so watertight is the handsome, velvety black suede that these hikers are decked out in. The black suede gives this pair of Avoriaz a luxurious twist — the type of boot that will impress the in-laws over the holidays.

Available from Lost & Found for $620.

Franklin & Poe Opens Pre-Orders for John Lofgren’s M-43 Service Boots in Horween CXL Roughout

With John Lofgren‘s M-43 Service Boot in Natural Horween CXL Roughout leather, we are treated to a classic design that goes with any clothing ensemble, besides maybe a sweat suit. Based on the impossible-to-find M-1943 Boots from WWII, Lofgren’s version sees an upgrade in quality at every stitch.

Setting the tone with a Goodyear welt construction and USA-made storm welts, this boot is impenetrable thanks to single, triple, and a new-to-me quadruple stitch construction. And then there is the textured roughout Chromexcel leather made by the famed Horween Leather company, which brings rugged contrast to the sea of leather footwear out there—not to mention, the reason these boots will look even better over time.

Made in Japan and closed out with a Vibram 700 sole and heel setup, and the added height that comes with a 1.5″ stacked heel, no one can deny that these things sure are pretty. But what if we told you they are legitimately comfortable too? Built on the original Munson last, devised by U.S. Army Dr. Edmund Munson to mimic the natural contour of the foot, no one was asking for period-correct podiatry, but we’ll take it.

Available for pre-order for $900 from Franklin & Poe.

/ Weekly Rundown /

• Watch It: ‘Wristwatch Revival’ Restores A Rolex Deepsea That Was Heavily Damaged In The Palisades Fires – Hodinkee

• Will the Denim Industry Ever Ban Potassium Permanganate? – Sourcing Journal

• Extreme Paraboot Restoration – Cobbler G

• Nike, Superdry and Lacoste ads banned in UK over ‘misleading’ green claims – The Guardian

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