/ Fade Friday /

Fade Friday – LVC 1966 501 Rigid (2.5 Years, 14 Soaks, 40 Washes)

LVC’s 1966 501® model is a revival of the jeans that helped spark Japan’s denim reproduction movement, and Reader Shawn has put this pair through the kind of heavy wear that makes all the trouble of faithfully reproducing historic clothing worthwhile.

Originally produced from 1966 to 1971, the “Big E” 501® marked a key shift in construction. This period introduced bar tacks at the rear pockets, replacing the original copper rivets at high-stress points. While those rivets served cowboys and miners well, they became notorious for damaging car seats and furniture over time. As early as 1937, Levi’s began covering the back pocket rivets to address complaints about scratching. By 1966, improved construction methods allowed Levi’s to replace them entirely with bar tacks.

Worn for competition in Cultizm’s first fade contest, these LVC 1966 501® saw over 2.5 years of consistent wear through hot Missouri summers. Notably, the jeans feature a handful of DIY sashiko-style repairs, the result of enduring daily wear while tending the grounds at Shawn’s job. Shawn has also documented the progression of the denim over time, showcasing the results of consistent wear and washing. With over 40 washes and 14 soaks, the jeans have developed a light, worn-in blue that’s so characteristic of mid-century Levi’s. The honecombs and whiskers may not be the boldest, but Shawn tells us this pair, more than anything, was an indigo-colored learning curve:

You can keep up with Shawn on Instagram

/ New Releases /

GUSTIN’s Featherweight Broken Twill Won’t Break The Bank

While some folks will endure raw selvedge denim all year ’round, others can’t even fathom buttoning up a pair of five-pocket jeans once temps breach 75°. If you fall into the latter category, or you simply want a pair of super lightweight jeans, GUSTIN has opened pre-orders for a broken twill denim that weighs in at an unbelievable 6 oz.— at an equally unbelievable price.

Though, don’t be fooled, the price and weight don’t mean these aren’t a high-quality pair of jeans. They have the classic raw denim look, created through a bright indigo warp and a white weft, loomed with a broken twill weave. First introduced by Wrangler back in 1964, broken twill combines both right-hand and left-hand twill, alternating them at every two warp ends to create a zig-zag pattern. This helps to stop the fabric twisting after being washed, as there is no weaving bias in either direction.

Gustin is offering this strong but light fabric across their full range of jean fits — vintage straight, straight, slim, skinny — for production and delivery in August, so they’ll be your best friend come the hot months of summer.

Cut and sewn in California, they cost just $79 a pair if you back the crowdfunding campaign — so you won’t be breaking a sweat, or the bank.

Available at GUSTIN for $79.

KATO Introduces New Wide-Leg Fit: The Pail

Together with

We’ve been anticipating KATO‘s contribution to the world of wide-leg jeans and their newly launched fit—the Pail—looks to be worth the wait. Fresh out of KATO’s LA factory, the Pail has landed in 4 different fabrics covering both 100% cotton raw selvedge and the brand’s popular 4-way stretch selvedge.

The Pail is a loose, straight cut with a mid-high rise. Roomy without entering anti-fit territory, it can be stacked for a true baggy affair, or cuffed at the hems for a cleaner break. However you plan to rock them, you need to choose your fabric first. If you want to go raw with a bit of a helping hand in the comfort department, the KATO’s Indigo Raw 14 oz. has you covered with 4-way stretch innovation that provides unrivaled mobility in the selvedge realm, all while retaining the look and fade-potential of a standard raw denim. If you prefer a 100% cotton raw jean, look to the 12.5 oz. Natural Slub Indigo, woven with slub yarns for an organic, uneven texture. At 12.5 oz., the Natural Slub comes stiff enough to set some heavy creases in for future fades but light enough to rock during the warmer months.

If you’re leaning towards a wash, there are 2 washed versions of the 12.5 oz. Natural Slub Indigo Pail. The ‘Brian‘ had a rinse and some light distressing for softness and texture, while the ‘Lou‘ has been heavily washed and faded for a vintage, lived-in fade right off the bat.

Whichever pair you choose, each is cut and sewn in LA from Japanese selvedge denim, woven on vintage Toyoda shuttle looms. They also come fitted with an all-new button fly, exclusive to The Pail, which features acid-washed laurel wreath buttons in homage to the Pail’s vintage inspirations.

The Pail is available at KATO starting at $248.

Stand In An Empty Field in HINOYA’s Exclusive Sun Surf Scarecrow Shirt

This quintessential summer shirt is here, and it features a scarecrow wearing a sweet shirt itself. Who would have thought? Well, Sun Surf, clearly.  Reproducing Hawaiian shirts from the 30s-50s, their deep archive of thousands of original shirts means they can cook up the most faithful remakes possible, and sometimes they’re weird—in the best way.

Originally manufactured by “Surf Riders Sportswear”, this latest creation features an extremely unique motif that looks great from afar and even better up close. Made from a faithful rayon Kabe Crepe, this all-over print shirt features two camouflage chest pockets and bamboo buttons. Unlike most Hawaiian shirts in the game, the fact that this number is long-sleeved gives it even greater distinction. Closed out with a spread collar, whether you go rockabilly style or approach it through a modern lens, it’s no Dan Flashes, but I think it will have to do.

Available exclusively at HINOYA for $195.

oRslow’s Linen 40s Coveral Is Built for Flaxen Fades

Linen is considered to be one of the oldest textiles in the world, but it’s taken the denim game until 2026 to serve up a linen coverall of this caliber.

That’s right, Japanese heavyweight orSlow has made a lightweight linen denim version of their WWII 40s coverall so we can stay decked out in denim all year long. Custom-milled in Japan for orSlow using indigo-dyed 100% linen yarns, this 9 oz. fabric uses the classic 3×1 twill weave of denim but with the breeziest fibers in the game.

The coverall itself is based on an original WWII US coverall that was dug out of orSlow founder Ichiro Nakatsu’s extensive vintage collection. Like with all of the brand’s garments, it retains faithful nods to the original, with even the stitching being done to 1940s’ specification, including a ghost tag on the back. Donut buttons and a total lack of external branding complete a clean, historic look that will keep you fading all summer long.

Available from Vestis for $560.

Sugar Cane Rounds Up Western Shirts in Washed Herringbone

In menswear, plaid flannels and Western shirts are everywhere. But how often do the two join forces to create a secret third thing: the western flannel?

Not to be confused with the Western omelet, Sugar Cane‘s Washed Herringbone Check Western Shirt in Green and Red is a great transitional option when summer feels like spring and vice versa.  Made from a lightweight herringbone check for a perfectly broken-in look and feel from the first wear, you’re going to feel like you skipped the 6-month ranch hand side quest to get to where it’s at. Done up with a western front and back yolk, this Sugar Cane special is finished with mother-of-pearl snap buttons and a double-stitched construction. Pair them with your favorite raw jeans for an updated Travis Bickle, without the descent into madness.

Available from Brooklyn Clothing for $201.

Fade All Summer Long with Iron Heart’s Cotton/Linen Chambray Shirting

There’s not much to complain about with warmer weather, but having to pack up some of your heftier shirts might just be one thing. Though Iron Heart is here to save the summer by releasing two of its two core shirts in a breezy 7 oz. Cotton Linen Chambray.

These are two iconic shirts, Iron Heart’s take on the classic Western shirt and equally classic Work shirt, decked out in a special Indigo-drenched fabric. The 7 0z. Chambray is a blend of 65% cotton and 35% linen; constructed from an indigo-dyed warp and a light grey linen weft. This is about as close to denim a plain weave can get, and it will fade like one, too.

The Western shirt is a proper Western shirt. We’re talking contrast stitching, flap chest pockets, snap buttons, and, of course, traditional pointed yokes. Meanwhile, it’s Work-ready counterpart has everything you’d expect from a quality Work shirt: chest pocket with pen slide, triple-stitched seams, and side seam gussets with a chainstitch run off. Built to last like all of Iron Heart’s wares.

Made in Japan, these are the perfect shirts to keep your indigo veins pumping all summer long.

Both are available from TENDREL, $375 for the Western shirt and $350 for the Work shirt.

/ Weekly Rundown /

• Kontoor Brands to Divest Lee as Wrangler and Helly Hansen Drive Growth – WWD

• Maurice Malone Launches Denim Workshop in Brooklyn – WWD

• NASA Ivy – Easy on the Ivy

• Trump’s Latest 10% Tariffs Declared Unlawful by US Trade Court – Bloomberg

• Bangladesh US Cotton Tariff Deal | Apparel makers to seek clarity on US cotton tariff deal – The Daily Star

• Jeff Bridges resurrects the WideluxX camera and it’s now available for pre-order – Acquire

• In-depth – Why pressure determines how much leather shoes stretch – Shoegazing