/ Fade Friday /

Fade Friday – Evisu Lot 2000 No. 2 (5 Years, 8 Washes)

Hello class, I’d like to welcome you to Denim 501: Advanced Fadiology. Today’s case study is about Walter from Canada. Throughout college and university, Walter wore a pair of Evisu Lot 2000 No.2 jeans nearly every day. When Walter graduated, he walked away with his diploma(s)/degree(s) but also with something much more objectively important. Truly incredible fades. Okay, okay, sure, he probably made lots of friends, got unparalleled experience, and a great education blah blah blah, but just look at these jeans! Come on now.

Although surely hard-fought, these fades have such a free and easy look to them—totally impressive without the feeling of trying-to0-hard—my favorite kind of fades. The front of the legs has prominent white streaks down them with whiskering along the sides, hanging on for dear life. The backside is no less righteous. A well-worn seat, nearly bleached thighs, and calves, with dusty, dusty honeycombs. A’s all around. Extra credit for the ankle fades.

Most importantly, what this case study reveals is that Evisu’s core, vintage-inspired raw denim offerings can yield beautiful fades that exhibit the spirit of Japanese denim. The brand may have become a fashion-focused cesspit of horrible artificial washes and embroidered gimmicks, but the lot. 2000 will always be a legendary jean.

You can follow Walter on Instagram @Nagativediary

/ New Releases /

This Mister Freedom Jungle Cloth N-1 Will Have You Hooked

The devil is in the details, as the saying goes. And it’s unfortunate for Lucifer that hell is hot, because this Jungle Cloth N-1 from LA’s Mister Freedom is packed with incredible details.

Inspired by French naval Marine Nationale jackets and a range of US Navy deck jackets, Mister Freedom has merged details of these foul-weather gems into their amazing ‘N-1’. What’s not to like here? It’s fully lined in cognac brown corduroy, which also finishes off the 1940s-style rounded collar. It’s crafted in Japan from a hardwearing 100% cotton khaki jungle cloth, which is wind and water-resistant. It’s even got internal rib cuffs and teardrop handwarmer pockets —again lined in corduroy— to keep your hands toasty.

And then there’s the fastenings. The double front closure is secured with two heavy hitters: a 1950s-type TALON bell zipper, which is covered by a wind flap with 1940s-type clip hooks, crafted in rustproof black metal. That’s enough to get anyone into vintage militaria hooked, if you’ll pardon the pun.

Available while stocks last at HINOYA for $805.

Mad Trapper’s Waxed Brush Cap is Built for Wet Weather

Yes, it’s a new year, but we’re still in the depths of winter. And spring is often much better. But even April has its infamous showers, so now seems like a great time to get a one-up on the weather and protect your head with Mad Trapper‘s Waxed Brush Cap.

Mad Trapper is an American-made sporting goods and workwear brand made for people who like to be outside, so a hat to get you high and dry is an absolute no-brainer. No sports badges or over-the-top branding here, they’ve kept it simple with a small embroidered mark on the tan crown, which is complemented by the olive green brim and squatchee (the top button — a new word for us too).

The Brush Cap is crafted in Canada from a USA-made waxed cotton canvas, all at a very reasonable price.

Available from Mad Trapper for $45.

Sink Into Loop & Weft’s 2-Tone After Hoodie Sweatshirt Super Fluffy Knit Raglan

Fluffy snow. Fluffy omelets. Never fluffy sweatshirts, unfortunately. Until there was you, Raglan After Hoodie Sweatshirt by Loop & Weft. Modeled after the highly coveted, impossibly scarce after hood sweatshirts of the 1930s-1950s, this fresh take is featured in an enticing two-tone ‘Vintage Forest Green’ and heather combo. Thanks to the raglan cut sleeves and roomy kangaroo pouch, feel free to max out your motion while keeping your hands warm.

But likely the ultimate luxury when it comes to this exciting homage is its literal construction. Made at a knit factory in Wakayama using a vintage Sinker knitting machine from the 1970s, this sweat is in a league of its own when it comes to old-school inspired comfort. Characterized by a loop structure with stability that holds up to shrinkage and its uniquely fluffy texture, reach for this afterhood when you want a vintage feel that will only get better with time.

Available for $272 from Blue In Green.

Wonder Looper Drops Its Double Heavyweight French Terry in Foxfibre

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If you’re into end-tier t-shirts, sweatshirts, and hoodies, Wonder Looper is pretty impossible to ignore at this point. They’ve been making waves in the last few years with their releases of Japanese-made cotton garb in showstopping fabrics that push far beyond industry norms—some tipping the scales heavier than raw denim. In fact, Wonder Looper’s Double Heavyweight French Terry is one of the heaviest sweat fabrics on earth, and it’s just dropped in some beautiful Foxfibre renditions.

At a staggering 825gsm/24.3 oz. per square yard, if Double Heavyweight French Terry isn’t the heaviest terry in the world, it’s certainly the heaviest in our niche. Woven on circular knitting machines in Wakayama—Japan’s knitwear capital—this monumental fabric features a low-gauge knit that creates an irregular surface texture and oversized, plush loops on the interior. The weave alone is remarkable, but when paired with naturally colored Foxfibre, it enters an entirely different stratosphere.

Grown in New Mexico by agricultural innovator Sally Fox, Foxfibre is an extra-long-staple organic cotton that naturally grows in shades of brown and green, eliminating the need for chemical dyes. Wonder Looper has opted for Foxfibre’s Coyote color for the  ‘Coyote 80’ rendition of its Double Heavyweight French Terry. A gorgeous light umber tone that showcases the natural majesty of Foxfibre. Coyote 80 is comprised of 80% Foxfibre and 20% long-staple organic cotton, a blend that makes for a robust yet handsome fabric, full of texture.

Wonder Looper has applied Coyote 80 Double Heavyweight French Terry to a Pullover Hoodie, Zip-Up Hoodie, and Pullover Crewneck. Each piece is made in Japan to the brand’s exacting standards, which are underpinned by a combined 40 years of industry experience. But just a word of warning, Wonder Looper’s cult following means their products often sell out fast. If you don’t happen to snag your size, be sure to check out the other options over at Blue Beach Denim, including the super-soft Fleeced Foxfibre and lighter-weight Coyote 70 tees and waffle thermals.

Available at Blue Beach Denim from $398.

/ Weekly Rundown /

• Brooklyn Denim Co. Closes Williamsburg Store Amid Retail Challenges – Sourcing Journal

• How Danish Menswear Label Forét Defines “Soft Outdoor” Style – Field Mag

• Why the quarter-zip trend is about much more than jumpers – The Guardian

• Ep 50: Putting Humanity Back Into Denim with Piero Turk – Jeansland

• How Horween Grades Their Leather – Full Grain Podcast

• Saks Global Has Filed for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy – Hypebeast

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