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  • Fade Friday – Big John R008 Jeans, 2 Years, Countless Washes

Fade Friday – Big John R008 Jeans, 2 Years, Countless Washes

/ Fade Friday /

Boro(ぼろ) and sashiko(刺し子) are rooted in practicality, originally a means to repair, reinforce, and give life to fabrics worn past their means. This pair of R008 “RARE” jeans from Big John, worn by reader Alex, stands as a modern embodiment of that spirit shaped through years of hard wear, repeated wash, and extensive repair.

Worn for 2 years and washed countless times, Alex works as a barista, often putting 12-16-hour days into his jeans. The teal-blue fades and heavy stitch work are achieved through everyday wear and the necessity for frequent washing and repairs due to working in the service industry.

Big John’s “RARE” jeans are the brand’s flagship line, designed as a celebration of indigo and an accumulation of the brand’s half-century industry knowledge. Often considered the “godfather” of Japanese denim and Japan’s first denim maker, Big John is recognized for a plethora of denim-related firsts, including the first one-wash jeans, the first Japanese selvedge fabric, and the first to explore using uneven yarns for greater texture.

Originally a 15.5 oz. unsanforized fabric, this denim originally started as a deep dark indigo paralleling indigo-black. Through years of heavy wear and repeated laundering, these jeans have fully transformed into a converse of their original form, now pale blue and showcasing a complex range of indigos. Alex notes that after roughly one year, the denim fibers began to break down, requiring repair work periodically every few weeks. The current state is the result of an accumulative 50+ hours of stitch and repair work, bringing new life to the denim with each mend.

Big John. Big fades. This Fade Friday is yet another homerun for the Southeast Asian denim community.

Big John Rare R008 Raw Denim Jeans

  • Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim

  • Fabric weight: 15.5 oz.

  • Fabric source: Japan

  • Made in: Japan

  • Fit: Straight

  • Additional Details:

    • Custom hardware

    • Indigo-dyed leather patch

    • Leather-backed, selvedge button fly

    • Hand-stamped pocket bags

  • Available at: Franklin and Poe for $380

/ New Releases /

Just in time for fall, Division Road and White’s join forces on the LTT Cutter 350, a rugged boot inspired by the logging traditions of the Pacific Northwest and spruced up for the modern day.

Made in direct collaboration with master shoemaker and White’s CEO, Eric Kinney, it’s clear these 6″ lace-to-toe boots were a labor of love – from the first detail to the last. The wild elk upper from England’s C.F. Stead is gently sanded to open up a world of textured grain before a wax coating is added to seal in the bountiful texture and provide protection from the elements. Oozing PNW charm, this multi-paneled upper is fitted to a leather midsole with a natural Chromexcel leather welt, turning the patina potential up to 11 while forming an ironclad, re-soleable construction that blends stitchdown and welted shoemaking techniques.

Sitting upon a Vibram 4014 Christy Sole, this limited drop of the LTT is closed out with a shedload of nuanced details, from a gusseted tongue and leather pull loops to oxidized eyelets, leather shank, and more. But be warned, only 36 pairs have been produced, so if you like what you see, head over to Division Road before it’s too late.

Available for $835 from Division Road Inc.

Natural indigo raw selvedge denim. One of the most expensive and ritzy phrases you can utter in the English language. Until now.  Well, regarding the expensive part at least. GUSTIN is dropping sub $170 top shelf denim that would normally retail north of $300, and they want you to get in on the ground floor.

Dyed using actual indigo plant dye, this 14 oz. Japanese Natural Indigo raw selvedge denim begins its life as a rich, dark tone before making way for expressive, distinct fade lines and soft hues. While the synthetic indigo used in 99% of raw selvedge denim garb fades beautifully, natural indigo is an essential experience for any denim head that looking to delve deeper into the niche. The problem is, using natural dye from the indigofera plant takes a lot more time, meaning natural indigo denim is usually on the higher end of the selvedge scale. However, GUSTIN’s crowdfunded, direct-to-consumer model eliminates excess stock, wasted fabric, and ultimately keeps costs down, meaning you can get your hands on some Natural Indigo raws for well under $200.

Available in several cuts, from Vintage Straight to Skinny, every pair is made in the USA and comes with a chainstitched hem and waistband, brown leather waist patch, and selvedge belt loop. Back the campaign today to secure your pair.

Available for pre-order for $164 from GUSTIN.

Giving something a French name always gives it a touch of class, and bouclé is no exception. So it’s no surprise that NY’s masters of class 3sixteen have decked out their Club Jacket in the fabric for a cozy take on the brand’s classic blouson.

Bouclé — which translates simply as ‘loop’ or ‘curl’ — refers to fabric with a pronounced, bumpy texture created by a series of loops (or curls) within the yarn itself. It gives the fabric not only a killer texture but a buttery soft feel too. 3sixteen’s specific bouclé, made in India, is a touch luxurious, weaving together nylon and sheep, angola, and alpaca wool to really bring that softness to new levels. Combine this with a 100% cotton lining to make it very easy to slip on during the cooler months, and you’re going to be loopy about this jacket.

The jacket oozes classic cool with its inspiration from vintage car club or garage jackets, so it sits cropped a little bit above the waist, with a level of boxiness so you can layer up nicely too. A modern icon reimagined in a first-rate fabric.

Available for $420 from Tendrel.

So you want that 1940 US Navy sailor look but can’t be bothered to wear the itchy wool watch cap that most times – if you’re ever lucky enough to find one, is way too tight. Lucky for me – I mean you, Heimat has just dropped its Mechanic Cap in a cotton-linen blend. That’s right, no more sweaty scalp, just pure style while rocking a quintessential menswear accessory.

To get into the weeds with it, know that you’re getting a made-in-Germany watch cap that uses extra fine 8-gauge Cotton Linen, with a generous 9cm brim. Hat wearers, rejoice. Non-hat wearers, get curious.

When it comes to styling, and by extension bad hair days, you can do no wrong with the Mechanic Cap. Just know that the amount you cuff says a lot about who you are as a person. Will your ears be on full display or completely hidden? Maybe half and half? And we haven’t even talked about the consequences of a tilted angle or uneven cuff.

Available for $75 from Heimat.

/ Weekly Rundown /

  • 8 of the Most Classic and Popular Colognes of All Time – InsideHook

  • How to Find the Best Used Outdoor Gear: An Expert Guide – Field Mag

  • 2 Kids, 3.5 Days, and 30-ish Miles on the Welsh Coast Path – Outsiders Store UK

  • The One Watch Collection: Our Contributors Weigh In – Worn & Wound

  • Entrupy Is Now Protecting Streetwear From Counterfeiting – Forbes

  • Who’s Got the Water? – Jeansland Podcast

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