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- Fade Friday – 3sixteen ST-120x (26 months, 0 washes, 0 soaks)
Fade Friday – 3sixteen ST-120x (26 months, 0 washes, 0 soaks)
/ Fade Friday /
Wherever you are in the world, point your head towards California and take a deep breath in through your nose. Smell that? That’s these jeans. Heddels reader Austin has been wearing his 3sixteen ST-120’s every day for over two years without a single wash or soak. He explains his denim journey:
“Worn almost all day everyday for 2+ years; I only take them off to go to sleep. For the first year I rigorously skateboarded in them. For the second year I did just about everything else in them: hiked, raved or worked out.
It has 0 washes, 0 soaks, and 0 beach washes. The only time it’s touched water is when I spill some on it. As a result, the fade was fast, the contrast was high, and the gloss was exponential. Consequently the denim wears quickly as well. There were large blowouts.”
There are consequences when you wear your jeans this hard and don’t wash: the blowouts, the smell, the crotch-rot. But there are also rewards: these have some of the best combs I’ve seen in a while, the train-track selvedge fades run the entire length of the outseam, and you could probably find the meaning of life in that patina. Whether you’re willing to sacrifice discomfort and hygiene to achieve them is up to you. We’re glad Austin did.
3sixteen ST-120x Slim Tapered Shadow Selvedge
Fabric: Shadow Selvedge Denim
Fabric weight: 14.5 oz.
Fabric source: Kuroki Mills, Japan
Made in: USA
Fit: Slim Tapered
Additional Details:
Custom gunmetal shanks and rivets
Selvedge fly and coin pocket detailing
Rougout Leather Patch
8 oz heavy cotton twill pocketing
Available at: 3sixteen for $250
/ New Releases /
There are dozens of interesting leathers in the heritage & quality goods space. Chamois, Chromexcel, Shell Cordovan, the world of equine leathers — the list goes on. But honestly, nothing hits quite like a bit of Kudu. Sourced from Greater Kudu in Eastern & Southern Africa, Kudu leather has varying amounts of natural blemishes from life in the Savanna, and is tanned to nurture its distinctive texture.
You’d think an exotic leather like this would garner lofty prices, but that’s not the case when Meermin is one scene. The Spanish brand’s direct-to-consumer model means that they can offer Goodyear welted footwear made from luxury Kudu leather at radically affordable prices.
Meermin currently has two flavors of Kudu on offer, both sourced from C.F. Stead, the iconic English tannery that pioneered the use of top-quality Kudu leather in the West. The 514686 — a classic, lug-soled service boot — deploys C.F. Stead’s ‘Autumn Spice Waxy Kudu’. This enriched Kudu leather exhibits the best of Kudu’s rugged texture with an autumnal palette rich in burnished brown tones. Featuring a bellows tongue to keep the water out, a double lug sole for traction, and speed hooks for an easy put-on, these are a no-brainer if you want a textured service boot without venturing into roughout or suede leathers.
The 514667 continues the service boot vibe but smartens things up a tad with a cap-toe, complete with brogue detailing. Featuring largely the same details as the aforementioned 514686, this boot offers a different Kudu experience with Caper Green Naked Kudu. Thick, soft, and with a more lustrous finish than the Waxy Autumn Spice, this brilliant C.F. Stead leather pairs perfectly with the cap toe silhouette. Even better, you can match your belt with these boots through the 104436 Belt in the same leather.
Both pairs of boots are handcrafted in China using Goodyear welting that allows them to be recrafted if ever required. They’re built with vegetable-tanned leather insoles and insoles, reinforced steel shanks, and soft leather toe puffs for comfort right out of the box.
Available at Meermin for $285 (boots) and $75 (belt)
Summer is coming to a close, but at Heddels, we see that as a good thing because it means 9 months of true aw denim weather are nearly upon us once again. And for those on a shoestring looking to get into raws, GUSTIN is lending a helping hand with a pair of American denim jeans at an unbeatable price point.
Their 355 American One Five, a classic 5-pocket pair of jeans, is crafted from some big, burly non-selvedge denim woven in the USA. Weighing in at 15oz, these jeans are made to last and will only get better the more they’re worn. An indigo warp is combined with a crisp weight weft, woven in an uncommon left-hand twill, which will become soft and supple as this bulky denim gives in. The color of this denim is giving off mid-century Lee & Wrangler vibes, with copper stitching compounding this budget all-American look.
The price point is something to marvel at — $79 for jeans cut and sewn in California from American denim is practically unheard of. Perfect for those shopping on a tight budget, wanting to try heavier denim without a hefty investment, or looking to support American denim where they can. They’re available in GUSTIN’s four fits — straight, vintage straight, slim, or skinny — so this bargain pair is available no matter how you want them to fit.
Available for backing now at GUSTIN for $79, with an expected shipping date of October 2025.
For the past 10 years, Lady White Co. has been making some of the finest Made in USA sportswear basics there is on offer. Now they’ve made their iconic jersey t-shirt even more summer-ready, by chopping the sleeves off.
Cut and sewn in Los Angeles, each Lady White tank has binding on the collar, sleeves, and hem. They’re made from cotton that’s been knitted with a highly twisted yarn on a high gauge machine, making them smooth, silky, and airy. So it’s not just the lack of sleeves that makes these perfect for warmer climes; the fabric itself is the right feel and texture for the warmest of days.
The sleeveless tees are built around Lady White Co.’s tried and tested silhouette, so think shorter body and loose-ish neckline. Which is great, because where tanks trump vests is their higher level of shoulder coverage that takes them out of the underwear category, allowing them to be treated and styled like a t-shirt.
Available in three colors at Lost & Found for $98.
Every now and then, a pair of shorts comes around that are just as tempting as a pair of full-length pants. This year, that honour belongs to Pure Blue Japan‘s SP-1179-CA Sulfur Dyed Herringbone Work Shorts — there’s not one word in that name that doesn’t excite us.
Though it’s not just the name that excites us. Like all of PBJ’s gear, the SP-1179-CAs are made entirely in Japan and have the brand’s focus on texture and fade potential at their core. Available in two colourways, Olive and Camel, the shorts are sulfur dyed. In short, the fabric is dyed in a vat with the dye colour and a sulfur compound; the resulting chemical reaction binds the colour strongly, but still allows the fabric to fade and patina with wear and washing.
Being herringbone, PBJ’s work shorts have that unmatched hbt chevron pattern that looks even better in such rich hues. They also have all the details that make a work short so timeless and recognisable — functional front slash pockets, deep back patch pockets, and the iconic mini thigh pocket. Plenty of pocket space to keep you bag free all Summer long. Although, something tells us you’re going to struggle to put these away for the Winter.
When you’ve found your perfect pair of jeans, it’s only right that you pull in the perfect accessory to keep those bad boys up. Through thick and thin, the right belt is there to help you keep the indecent exposure charges away, in style.
The Burgus Plus One Ring Belt is a timeless option that is made well and is easy on the eyes. Crafted in collaboration with Milestone, an Asakusa-based leather workshop, this belt is made from ANTICO leather, which uses cowhide treated with wax and oil for a gorgeous finish.
But what truly sets this belt apart from 90% of its counterparts is the use of a solid brass ring closure. It’s a step away from your standard square/rectangle-oriented buckles, but one that still looks timeless when paired with that thick, heirloom-quality leather. Both brass and leather are loved for their ability to develop a lovely patina, meaning this belt will make friends with your other better-with-age goods in no time.
Available for $105 from Hinoya.
The Original Madras Trading Co. has been working with weavers in Chennai (previously Madras), India, to produce outstanding Madras fabrics from pure Indian cotton since the 1970s. Their Cuban Short Sleeve Shirt is an example of this expertise, swerving away from your token madras patterns while still maintaining that Indian spirit we know and love.
Taking a classic Cuban silhouette, straight hem, short sleeves, single breast pocket, and a one-piece collar, TOMTC has created a close-to-perfect summer shirt. Though the fabric is what makes this shirt really special — a nice diversion from the usual Madras check, it’s a natural dye ‘stout weave’. Let’s break down what that means a bit. We already know it’s woven by hand at Original Madras’ Indian HQ. There, it’s constructed in a plain weave from a 100% GOTS certified organic cotton yarn. This has been combined with a hemp yarn that gives the fabric fantastic strength, whilst being breathable.
The fabric is dyed with natural indigo and no synthetic chemicals, giving the shirt an unbeatable depth of colour that’s kind to the planet and ready to fade. A triple win.
Available from The Original Madras Trading Co. for $205.
/ Weekly Rundown /
Denim Brands Fight to Keep Production in the USA – Sourcing Journal
Ernest Look at Bakers Tannery And Why We Use It – Crown Northampton
Ivy Style in Europe – Ivy Style
Report – Show Goto / White Kloud – Shoegazing
This Summer Cycling Festival is Portland’s Ode to Bike Culture – Field Mag
Red Wing Re-sole (Wedge to heeled sole) – Cobbler G
A history of controversial jeans adverts – The Guardian
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