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- Fade Friday – 3sixteen SL-120x (10 Months, 6 Washes)
Fade Friday – 3sixteen SL-120x (10 Months, 6 Washes)
/ Fade Friday /
3sixteen may make a whole range of clothing, but raw denim will always be in their DNA. Proving this sentiment is Reddit user, ZVincler, whose well-documented SL-120x caused plenty of buzz over the past year or so.
Worn for ten months and washed six times, these jeans have seen a lot of action. ZVincler drove 3,000 miles across the US and wore these jeans as he hiked through Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park in Utah. Although they show some wear and tear, notably the back pocket holes caused by the wearer’s cell phone and wallet – these 3sixteens have never needed a professional repair and have plenty of life left in them. It’s a testament to how much more mileage you can get out of a pair with more frequent washing.
Although sanforized fabrics, as a general rule, have a flatter appearance and less variable fading compared to uneven, unsanforized denim, this Shadow Selvedge fabric offers some impressive variation to the fading, which is particularly clear on ZVincler’s pair. This is even more noteworthy considering how soft and comfortable the fabric is, right from the start – it’s a great balance of comfort and texture, proving that you don’t necessarily need to choose one or the other. On top of that, the black weft adds some great detail to the evolution of the jeans – the holes, in particular, look distinct from other pairs due to the black, rather than white, threads.
Details
Name: 3sixteen SL-120x
Fabric: 100% Cotton Shadow Selvedge (Deep Indigo warp/Black weft)
Weight: 14.5 oz.
Fit: Slim Straight
Unique features:
Gunmetal rivets and buttons
Tanner Goods patch
Selvedge fly
Chainstitched hem
Available for $300 at Rivet & Hide.
/ New Releases /
Crowdfunding kings Gustin are back with some serious summer-ready Japanese selvedge jeans. Yes, you read that right, summer-ready selvedge — their 351 Japan Featherweight comes in at just 6 oz.
Having once produced a pair of 26 oz. jeans, Gustin are no strangers to exploring the limits of selvedge, but these are on the complete other end of the spectrum. The 351 Japan Featherweights definitely don’t shirk on what makes Japanese raw denim special — the indigo warp and white weft produce an unmistakably vintage look. They also have a starched base, meaning that they will start to crease and set in after just a couple of wears. All this while being a similar weight to the linen chambray that Gustin has on offer.
You can choose between four fits: Vintage Straight, Straight, Slim and Skinny. Just select what you’re most comfortable in, the easy, breezy denim will keep you in selvedge all summer long.
As always, Gustin is also crowdfunding the 351 Japan Featherweights so they can produce the exact amount they need to, whilst keeping production in the US. This keeps costs down and quality up.
Available for backing now at Gustin for $169, with an expected shipping date of June/July 2025.
For nautical footwear that checks all the boxes, Oak Street Bootmaker‘s Rowing Oxford will have you prepared for the bow, stern, and boathouse.
Constructed in the USA from Horween Chromexcel Roughout leather, this 3-eye oxford gives you the lush texture of suede but with a little more backbone. Supported by a SVIG Cortina cork sole, the moc-toed, low-profile upper is met with a traction-heavy lug sole that ensures you’ll have many miles – or leagues ahead of you before the topic of resoles even comes up.
Featuring a handsewn construction all around in addition to a padded collar, and antique brass hardware, it should come as no surprise that a boat shoe as striking as this cuts zero corners.
It’s all calculated like the coxswain’s commands from the back of the shell. Or maybe it’s the front? I don’t have a single clue.
Available for $348 from Oak Street Bootmakers.
Iron Heart might just have released the final boss of all work jackets. Their 1447-BEI work jacket is so full of details, both visible and invisible, that it is a true thing of beauty.
What haven’t we got here? There are the repro military grade melamine buttons, a nickel YKK zipper with a natural leather pull, welted D-stitch front pockets, and a gorgeous purple corduroy lining on collar and cuffs. We could go on and on, but this thing really has to be seen to be believed.
Though it’s not just details that Iron Heart has gone turbo on. The fabric they’ve chosen for this very special jacket is nothing to shake a stick at either. The 144J-BEI is made in Japan from a 12 oz. Kurashikizome cotton twill. The cotton itself is grown in Japan on a farm that prides itself on not using any harmful synthetic pesticides or fertilizers, guaranteeing strong, long-staple fibers. The cotton is then reactive dyed under the Japanese Kurashikizome certification.
This dyeing method, developed in Kurashiki City, ensures that they use only safe dyes and chemicals and the minimum necessary amount of energy and water. Any wastewater is then purified to extremely high standards as it is flowed into the Seto Inland Sea, a national park. This all makes Iron Heart’s work jacket more environmentally conscious and sure to last a lifetime.
The 144J-BEI work jacket is as classic as it gets in its heritage silhouette and workwear ruggedness, but as modern as it gets in its commitment to the earth.
Available from Division Road Inc. for $425.
Roasting marshmallows over an open flame is one thing, but Railcar Fine Goods is raising the stakes – and the temperature – with their Type 2 Brown FR 12.75 oz. Jacket. Modeled after the Levi’s Type II Trucker that we all know and love, Railcar brings this jacket into the present day with handwarmer pockets, an elongated body, and flame-resistant brown denim.
The swap from blue denim to brown might seem risky on paper, but it just works, suiting the Type II silhouette well, especially how it plays off those box pleats and flap chest pockets. It also does a great job of Clark Kent-ing the Superman-level functionality it has under the hood. This isn’t just any old medium-weight premium denim after all. It’s flame-resistant, which is perfectly timed for camp and bonfire season right around the corner, and a new lexicon of fade types that come with it, like scorched, toasted, and burnt to a crisp.
Made in the USA and available for $298 from Railcar Fine Goods.
Round, square, oval watches be damned, the only thing we want on our wrist is M.R.M.W‘s Cushion Military Watch. These rounded, rectangular watch faces have been around for over a century, based on designs for Rolex Oysters from the 1920s.
Founded as a division of Muramatsu Watch Manufacturing Co. back in 1893, M.R.M.W by Montre Roroi is dedicated to faithfully reproducing classic vintage watches from militaries across the world. This beautiful number recreates the cushion silhouette complemented by black print on a white dial — used by the US military until 1940 before switching to a black dial the following year. In fact, there are two dials in action here — one for the hours and minutes and one for seconds, making it even more functional and handsome.
The watch itself is crafted in Japan from a bright, polished stainless steel with a brown “crazy horse” leather strap. With a 12-hour quartz movement, it’s the perfect combination of durability, beauty, and inspired by a rich heritage.
M.R.M.W’s motto is “creating watches that will be loved forever,” and the Cushion Military Watch is certainly no exception.
Available for $237 at Cultizm.
Black and brown leather boots will always have a special place below our selvedge cuffs, but once in a while, you need a change of pace to reinvigorate your wardrobe. Or maybe you like the idea of a go-to boot but have been waiting for something with just enough subtle distinction from the pack. In either case, the Zip Boots in Dark Sand from Unmarked Handcrafted will do the trick.
Channeling the Peco boots that helped build the West with a sprinkle of British elegance, these boots can fill in wherever needed, with flying colors. Made in Mexico with a suede upper from England’s C.F. Stead tannery, they feature a 270 welt construction and Dainite studded sole, which can be replaced over and over to your heart’s content. Which is key, because you’ll never want to let these die. Especially after the suede breaks in over time.
Closed out with YKK side zips which make pull tabs a thing of the past, slip into some footwear that will complement any outfit. As long as shorts aren’t involved.
Available for $490 from Unmarked.
/ Weekly Rundown /
How Snow Peak Turned Crampons Into a Global Camping Lifestyle – Field Mag
Nanamica Opens Kyoto Flagship Store – Hypebeast
Interview with The Strike Gold – Redcast Heritage
Smile, Cry, and Laugh with Style – Division Road, Inc.
HAVEN Spring 2025: Equipment for Living – HAVEN
The Omega Seamaster: From the Deep Sea to the Silver Screen – Bezel
One To Watch: Shona Taine Is The Only Female Candidate Member Of The AHCI – Hodinkee
Global textile workers face growing risks amid trade war tensions – Sustainability News USA
Small menswear retailers are already feeling the tariffs – GQ
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