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Aug 28 - Know Your Boots – I&R
David Shuck
August 28, 2024
Together with
Know Your Boots – The 11 Most Common Boot Types
From Chelseas to Engineers we have your feet covered.
James Smith
Boot-talk is like a second language to us here at Heddels. But if you’re new to the game — or used to religiously wearing one style of boot — you may not completely be up to speed with what exactly makes a Moc Toe, or what separates the Chelsea from the Chukka.
For that very reason, we’ve broken down the eleven core types that grace our corner of the fashion world, listing some quality makers of each style.
1. Hiker
Tanner Goods x Danner Mountain Pass boot.
As their name would suggest, Hiker boots are made with hike-ready features that also give them a rugged aesthetic. Always wide-fitting to allow extra space for thick socks, Hikers also come with a lace-to-toe closure that often utilizes D-ring eyelets to firmly secure the foot.
Cut lower to finish at the ankle, Hikers are typically constructed with a one-piece vamp and quarter, which sits upon a heavy-duty lug or wedge sole.
Makers of Hiker Boots Include:
2. Duck
L.L. Bean 8″ Bean Boot
Duck Boots were invented in the early 20th century for the purpose of duck hunting. Pioneered by L.L. Bean, Duck Boots feature a full rubber sole and vamp, originally designed to be waterproof whilst creeping through shallow waters during the hunt.
A taller boot with a tough leather upper and industrial stitching throughout, Duck Boots are a purpose-built wet weather shoe that’s transcended into the fashion market, still remaining popular to this day.
Makers of Duck Boots include:
/ In Partnership with Iron & Resin /
If there’s one piece that defines Iron & Resin, it’s gotta be their Scout Jacket. A rough and tumbled take on the classic Type III trucker, but in a 12oz. British Millerain waxed canvas fabric, corduroy collar, and a blanket lining. Talon zip and button closure.
It’s hard on the elements but soft on you. And if you’re hard on it, Iron & Resin guarantees to repair or replace your Scout should it ever break down on you.
See it in all colors at Iron & Resin.
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3. Moc Toe
Inspired by the original handsewn footwear of Native America, Moc-Toe boots are identified by their pronounced moccasin-style stitching which attaches the toe to the vamp. Patterns and construction vary from brand to brand, but the most typical feature of a moc-toe boot is the exposed seam at the toe, a hallmark that can be found on the archetypal Red Wing Moc Toe boots.
The uppers of Moc-Toe boots are normally constructed from leather, with the moccasin-style details often being handsewn. Moc Toe boots can be crafted on any rugged sole, but as you can see from the Maine Mountain boots above, Moc Toe’s typically use a wedge sole (also seen on the ubiquitous Red Wing Moc Toe boot).
Makers of Moc Toe boots include:
4. Service
Viberg Cap Toe Service Boots
Service Boots are inspired by military styles from the First and Second World Wars. A classic Service Boot will typically have welted construction, a hardwearing sole with a low block heel, and a leather upper with a plain or capped toe. Derby-style lace closures are commonplace, but it’s not unusual to see the addition of metal eyelets and speed hooks to more rugged styles like the Red Wing Iron Ranger.
While the Viberg boots shown above are an example of a typical service boot – the simple, clean upper of a service boot leaves them open to interpretation – and some brands have been known to use wedge or commando soles, which can change the silhouette quite drastically.
Makers of Service Boots include:
5. Logger Boot
Wesco Jobmaster 10″ Boots.
Logger boots are one of the oldest types of workboot still in service. The style was originally used by lumberjacks and people driving pack horses in the late 1800s, who also needed to cross rocky terrain on foot (hence why this style can sometimes be sold as a ‘Packer’ Boot). As such, the Logger is typified by a high lace-up shaft (typically 10″ or greater), thick lugged soles, a tapered Western-style heel, and often a Kiltie leather detail on the toe.
Makers of this style of boot include:
6. Engineer
John Lofgren Engineer Boots.
Rugged and hardwearing – the Engineer boot is a lace-less, heritage style that’s vastly popular amongst motorcyclists. Originally developed in the thirties, Engineer boots have a higher shaft of eight inches or more, with a pull-on style that features adjustable buckles at the mid-foot and upper shaft.
Built with re-craftable welted construction, Engineer boots typically have a low block or Cuban heel, and a full leather upper with a plain toe.
Brands producing Engineer boots include:
7. Roper Boot
Red Wing Pecos Boot.
A boot that needs no introduction, the Roper boot is an Americana classic. Ropers are typically made with a plain-toed leather upper and have a higher shaft of 8 inches and above. They’re built with pull-on construction and feature a ‘winged’ shaft which splits slightly to make them easier to pull on/off.
Sometimes made with snakeskin or adorned with decorative stitching for maximum cowboy points, Roper boots will nearly always have a heeled sole.
Makers of Roper boots include:
8. Chukka
Alden Chukka. Image via Leffot.
With a lower shaft of around 4 inches and a simple, clean construction, the Chukka is arguably the simplest member of the boot family. Chukkas generally have a minimal lace closure or two to three eyelets, and an upper that consists of no more than three panels.
The type of sole varies depending on the brand of Chukka, but the most commonly used are wedge soles or those with a low-block heel like the Aldens shown above.
Makers of Chukka boots include:
9. Jodhpur
Carmina Jodhpur.
Originating in India, the Jodhpur boot is a heritage style, first worn by polo players in the 1920s. The main characteristics of Jodhpurs are the double-wrap buckle closures around the ankle and the one-piece vamp which is sewn over the quarter.
A more formal boot, Jodhpurs feature a plain toe, a low block heel, and often have a leather sole.
Makers of fine Jodhpur boots include:
10. Chelsea
R.M. Williams Craftsman Boot.
A true British classic, Chelsea boots are leather boots identified by their elasticated closures located either side of the ankle. The upper is typically made from one single piece of leather, and pull tabs are traditionally included at the very top of the shaft.
Famously worn by The Beatles, Chelsea boots feature a heeled sole which is finished with a low block heel.
Makers of Chelsea Boots include:
11. Balmoral
Alfred Sargent Balmoral Boot. Image via Gentleman’s Gazette.
With a history that stretches back to the royalty of Victorian England, Balmoral boots are more occasion-wear rather than everyday boots. A slim-cut, plain toe boot with distinctive close throat lacing system, Balmoral boots often feature two-tones of leather – or even two different hides as shown above.
Traditionally finished with decorative pinking on the toe, Balmorals feature a low block heel and usually have a leather sole.
Makers of Balmoral boots include:
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