The King of Leathers – All About Shell Cordovan

We get under the skin of Shell Cordovan, explaining why it's so sought after, how it's made, how it ages, and where to buy it.

John Bobey

Much like in Game of Thrones, in the land of leather, there can be but one true king. Unless someone somewhere finds a real live dragon and is able to make shoes from it, Shell Cordovan is about as close as you’re going to get.

Much like the dragons of Game of Thrones, shell cordovan is rare and sought after. It’s a revered equine leather that commands some of the highest prices in the world of footwear and leather goods — and for good reason.

If you’ve seen Shell Cordovan on your travels and wondered why it’s so expensive, or just why it looks so damn good, this article is for you. We’ll get under the skin of Shell Cordovan, explaining why it’s so sought after, how it’s made, how it ages, and where to buy it.

What is Shell Cordovan?

Shell Cordovan is a rare leather that is made of the fibrous, subcutaneous tissue found on the hindquarters of a horse. The dense, poreless structure of the equine ‘shell’ makes it naturally more water-resistant than other leathers. This also means shell ripples instead of creasing and folding around stress points. This tanning practice was first explored by the Visigoths in seventh century (Cordoba) Spain.

Whereas most leather companies utilize the hides from the whole animal and often divide one hide into many layers, essentially getting multiple quantities of thinner, inferior quality “leather” from one hide (although none you’ll likely read about here —we’re full-grain-leather-company people), Shell Cordovan comes only from horses and only from one isolated section of their posterior. Suffice it to say, the supply of SC leather is much lower (like all horsehide), creating high demand with prices to boot.

How is Shell Cordovan Made?

Due to relatively limited supply and a time-consuming tanning process, there are only a few well-regarded tanneries in the world producing Shell Cordovan, namely Shinki Hikaku in Japan, Horween in Chicago, and Toscana Italia in Italy. There are a few smaller tanneries making Shell, but Shiniki and Horween do most of the heavy lifting.

The process of producing Shell Cordovan takes 6-9 months to complete, with a complicated tanning process: 

• Prepping the hides: Hides are salted and stored until they’re ready for the tanning process. They are then soaked in lime to loosen and remove the hair.

• Vegetable tanning: The hides are placed in vats with tannins from tree bark and other natural matter. This step lasts 30 days, allowing these tannins to soak into the leather. After the first round, the hides are treated again with more tannins and other chemicals to deepen the tanning process. This can last another 30 days.

• Hot stuffing: The shell leather is then hot stuffed with oils, waxes, and other conditioning agents in large wooden drums.

• Shell extraction: Highly skilled workers then shave down the hides to expose the smooth, dense “shell” layer underneath, carefully removing the softer outer layers of the leather.

• Hand oiling:  After shaving, the shell is hand-oiled to further condition and prepare the leather for its final appearance. This step also helps bring out the leather’s rich color and depth. This process is also known as ‘currying‘

• Drying and aging: The leather is hung to dry and age, sometimes for months, to allow the oils and waxes to settle into the leather, which helps with texture and durability.

• Dyeing and polishing: The leather is dyed, often using aniline dyes, and then polished to create the high-gloss finish that is characteristic of shell cordovan.

All of this adds up to create a leather that can last for several decades if treated properly, including on footwear. The only caveat is that the rarity of high-quality equine hides and the labor-intensive nature of their tanning make Shell quite expensive, and limit availability to a handful of colours, the most iconic of which is Horween‘s burgundy No. 8.

Colors of Shell Cordovan

As for the colors Shell Cordovan comes in, it’s relatively limited, and most stores tend to stock mostly a classic oxblood cordovan (aka #8) and black. But there are others, and the names have largely been chosen by the Horween company itself, see the index below from The Tannery Row:

How Does Shell Cordovan Age?

Despite its rarity and storied production, it’s the enduring beauty of Shell Cordovan that really makes it worth the dough. It develops a spectacular patina with wear, retaining an almost glass-like sheen with polishing. In addition, the leather darkens over time, with any roughening, scratches, or marks tending to blend into the leather thanks to its rich oil content. This is especially noticeable on lighter colors like whiskey, brandy, or natural.

You may have heard that Shell Cordovan doesn’t crease. This is partially true, but a more accurate statement would be to say that Shell creases in its own way. Instead of the vein-like creases you get on other leathers, whereby the creases have their own network of small, thin creases (that can turn into cracks without care), Shell Cordovan tends to ‘roll’. This can be minimized with proper sizing, shoe trees, and a proper care regimen, though.

Pros & Cons of Shell Cordovan

Pros:

• Rare and exclusive, available in a small number of brilliant colors.

• A strong leather that lasts a lifetime or more with proper care.

• High level of luster without looking like it has been shined, meaning it can traverse both casual and formal wear.

• ‘Self-polishing’ – the numerous oils, waxes, and fats within the leather move around with wear, friction, and touch. This creates a subtle shine without hand-polishing.

• Creases less intensely than most other leathers, forming ripples and what are referred to as ‘rolls’, as opposed to veiny creases (see above).

• Easy to care for with the right regimen.

Cons:

• Very expensive.

• Less water-resistant than chrome-tanned leather. This makes Shell prone to water marks (especially on lighter colors), although these can easily be removed.

• Strangers might ask you why your shoes or boots are so nice

• Despite its durability, the denseness of Shell Cordovan means that it can tear if exposed to sharp objects or excessive stress.

• Some folks complain about a tough break-in, but this seems to be a subjective experience.

How to Care for Shell Cordovan

Shell Cordovan is incredibly easy to care for, especially when you compare it to, say, suede. While we would love to have a proprietary care regimen to boast, the truth is that the shoe community has way richer knowledge of how to care for Shell Cordovan. There’s the infamous “Mac Method”, conceived by Shell Corovan Alden collector, MacArthur (Known as Michaelw on Style Forum). This method emphasizes simplicity and low-intervention care that uses polishes sparingly, encouraging one to bring out the natural oils within Shell Cordovan rather than layering more on top.

We’re fans of this simple yet slightly expanded rendition of the Mac Method, which can be credited to StyleForum member, Srivats:

1. Wipe shoes with a barely damp cloth to remove dirt. Let dry for 2-3 mins.
2. Insert shoetrees. Take a horsehair brush and brush vigorously till your arms give out — 5-6 min (each shoe).
3. Buff with a dry flannel cloth.
4. Use Alden paste Wax* (minute, minute amounts) every 15 wearings or so, or if they get scuffed hard. Yearly application of cordovan creme (not regular creme) if need be.

A polished deer bone can be used to smooth out ripple and move natural fats around the leather, but this is not essential.

Shell Cordovan Products

Products crafted from Shell Cordovan command a high price, with shoes usually at least a 50% premium over other high-end leathers. Whether or not it’s worth it is a personal choice, but there is no denying the quality and nuance of this leather, as well as the craftsmanship that goes into producing it.

As it is so limited and prized, Shell Cordovan products often sell out fairly quickly. Shell Cordovan drops by Viberg are known to sell out in under a minute! But with the prices commanded by Shell Cordovan, it’s best to plan out a purchase of this caliber properly. Reach out to retailers and/or makers to confirm your size, and scope out the perfect style(s) for you to ensure you’ll get your money’s worth.

Crown Northampton Horween No. 8 Shell Cordovan Leather Belt, available for $350 from Crown Northampton.

Accessories are less common for Shell Cordovan, so when you do see a maker willing to give up a Shell for a bag or batch of wallets and watch straps, expect to pay dearly (and be thankful).

Alden Shell Cordovan Loafers, available from $913 from J. Press

John Lofgren LK-022 Steadfast Chukka Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan, available for $1,300 from Brooklyn Clothing.

Crown Northampton Harlestone Derby in Bourbon Shell Cordovan, available for $1,011 from Crown Northampton.

Crown Northampton Everdon Wholecut in No.8 & Cognac Shell Cordovan, available for $1,145 from Crown Northampton.

Horween Shell Cordovan Watch Strap, available for $129 from Crown Northampton.

Friday and River 1-Piece Nato Style Watch Band Shell Cordovan, available for $150 from Friday & River.

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