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- Aug 18 - Wide Leg Raw Denim Jeans – A Buyer’s Guide - Meermin
Aug 18 - Wide Leg Raw Denim Jeans – A Buyer’s Guide - Meermin
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Wide Leg Raw Denim Jeans – A Buyer’s Guide
We provide a list of the true wide-leg jeans on the raw selvedge denim market, from makers like ONI, Samurai, Full Count, and many more.
James Smith

After about a decade of slim and slim-tapered jeans ruling the selvedge roost, straight and wide-leg raw selvedge denim jeans are becoming more and more popular again, and hem openings seem to be getting wider across the board.
Seeing as we’re coming out of a leg-width recession of sorts, not every raw denim brand makes a true wide-straight leg jean. Sure, some brands label their widest cut as ‘wide’, but in reality, it’s just a straight-leg jean that’s wider than their other offerings. With this in mind, we thought we’d put together a list of the truly wide-straight raw selvedge denim jeans out there, so you can get the width you’re looking for.
Whether you’re used to wearing wider jeans and want a list of top-notch wide-leg options out there, or you’re looking to switch up your style and get hip to some wide boys, this guide is for you. We’ve put together a list of most of the truly wide raw selvedge denim jeans on the market, each adhering to the Heddels philosophy of well-made goods that you will want to use forever.
If there’s a pair of wide-leg raw selvedge denim jeans you think should be on this list, let us and the community know in the comments. We’ll keep this list updated with pairs we believe belong in the guide.
Full Count 0105 New Loose Straight

Possibly the most widely stocked wide-leg raw denim jean is the Full Count 0105. The Japanese label actually edited the 0105 fit in recent years to make it wider, higher in the rise, and all-around ‘looser’, hence the name. Somehow, though, Full Count has achieved a loose ‘n’ wide silhouette that’s still clean as hell. Some masterful styling by London’s Clutch Cafe can be seen above, but let’s be honest, the 0105 New Loose Straight would look good with anything.
I’ve had the pleasure of trying these on and can confirm they’re absolutely top-drawer, but the denim is raw and unsanforized, meaning it will shrink a size or two on the first soak/wash. Full Count’s denim is also known for stretching back out a fair bit after washing, too, so be sure to reach out to your denim vendor of choice for sizing advice on these. Get the size right and you’ll be living in ’em.
Available for $330 from Clutch Cafe or $293 fromRedcast Heritage.
/ In Partnership with Meermin /
There are dozens of interesting leathers in the heritage & quality goods space. Chamois, Chromexcel, Pull Up, the world of equine leathers — the list goes on. But honestly, nothing hits quite like a bit of Kudu. Sourced from Greater Kudu in Eastern & Southern Africa, Kudu leather has varying amounts of natural blemishes from life in the Savanna, and is tanned to nurture its distinctive texture.
You'd think an exotic leather like this would garner lofty prices, but that's not the case when Meermin is one scene. The Spanish brand's direct-to-consumer model means that they can offer Goodyear welted footwear made from luxury Kudu leather at radically affordable prices. They've got two boots on offer in different colors of C.F. Stead kudu, with a belt to match one of those options.
Available at Meermin for $285 (boots) and $75 (belt)
ONI 200 & 222

ONI Denim ONI-222 “Low Tension” 15oz Super Wide Straight Jeans via Redcast Heritage.
Wider offerings by cult Japanese label, ONI, are released under the 200 and 222 models, with 200 being ‘Wide’ and 222 being ‘Super Wide’.
Until the last 2-3 years, ONI has focused on slimmer jean silhouettes with heavier tapers, so it’s great to see the brand putting out wider, more traditional fits while still focusing on heavily slubby/neppy fabrics that stand out. This does mean that people are snapping them up, though, and stock doesn’t hang around for long.
Current Wide Leg Offerings by ONI Denim:
The Flat Head
The Flat Head doesn’t make wide-leg jeans. Well, at least that’s what we thought until we saw the FN-D111 in all its drapey glory. With a roomy seat and hem opening of between 9″ and 10″ across the available sizes, The Flat Head’s FN-D111 is the brand’s first foray into a truly wide leg jean for a long while.
This edition of the FN-D111 is made from 14.5 oz. raw selvedge denim woven on vintage shuttle looms from 100% Zimbabwean cotton — a fiber known for its holy trinity of strength, softness, and texture. The twill weave on this Japanese fabric is woven with a pronounced downward weave. With wear and washing, it will develop the revered raindrop-esque “Doshaburi” (which translates to downpour) fade.
Each pair is crafted in Japan with the kind of considered details we know and love from The Flat Head – hidden arcuates that will reveal as the denim fades, rust-resistant iron buttons and copper-plated rivets, reinforced button-holes, selvedge coin pocket, and a custom vegetable-tanned deerskin waist patch
Available at Redcast Heritage for ~$303 and Cultizm for ~$340.
Momotaro #400 Standard Wide
Momotaro has been undergoing some minor rebranding over the last year or so, and this has come with the introduction of their widest fit, the #400. Still featuring the top-tier of Japanese craftsmanship that we’ve come to expect from the brand, Momotaro’s #400 silhouette features a wide leg with a mid-to-high-rise and a gentle taper toward a wide hem opening, which sits at just over 9.5″ on the size 32. All of this results in a wide fit that remains clean and put-together, available in 2 14.7 oz. raw selvedge denim fabrics – raw indigo and double black.
Each pair is made in Japan and features a tonal-dyed cowhide waist patch, branded hardware, a lined waistband to improve fit and reduce dye transfer when tucking in tops, and more.
Available at HINOYA for $260.
Tellason Fredy
Tellason‘s latest cut is its widest ever. The Fredy is available in 12.5 oz. and 14.75 oz. selvedge denim (sanforized) from Japan’s Kaihara mills and features a full leg, high rise, and wide leg opening (10″ on a size 32). Each pair is made in San Francisco, California, and fitted with a button fly, lined rear pockets, heavyweight pocket bags, and a branded waistpatch.
Available at Tellason from $240.
Freenote Cloth Modesto
Chanelling Americana goodness from the mid-20th century is Freenote Cloth and its widest cut, the Modesto. The Modesto is the newest cut in Freenote’s denim range, featuring a mid-to-high rise and full leg with a very subtle taper toward a wide leg opening (9.5″ on a size 32). This rendition of the Modesto is made with custom 14.5 oz. raw selvedge denim from Kaihara mills. This denim is tightly woven with a deep indigo warp and natural-colored weft, with the aim of fast-forming, pronounced fades that boast a beige cast.
Each pair is made in the USA and features branded hardware, Japanese herringbone twill pocket bags, acorn-shaped rear pockets with bar-tack reinforcements, and a dark brown leather waist patch from S.B. Foot Tanning Co.
Available for $275 from Franklin and Poe.
Indigofera Kirk
Swedish imprint Indigofera offers a true wide-leg jean through its Kirk silhouette.
Currently available in an exclusive makeup for Franklin & Poe. Made in Portugal using proprietary 18 oz. Japanese raw selvedge denim woven exclusively for Indigofera, the Kirk has a full-legged fit from the top block through to the hem, with minimal tapering. Each pair comes with a handsome dual-branded waist patch, rivet reinforcements, rugged 9 oz. twill pocket bags, and tonal ‘stealth’ arcuates that will become more visible as the denim fades with wear and washing
Available for $295 from Franklin & Poe.
Taiga Takahashi T.T. Lot. 704 Denim 1920s Trousers – Wide Straight – Raw Indigo
Taiga Takahashi (often styled as “T.T.”) is a unisex brand based in New York and Kyoto. Founder and designer Taiga Takahashi launched his label in 2017 after graduating from Central Saint Martins, using his vast collection of American vintage garments from the early to mid-20th century. Taiga believes that true craftsmanship exists in those historical garments that built both America, and aims to create clothing through an archeological perspective, creating “timeless garments” that could be seen as fossils in their own right in 100 years.
T.T. is a true merging of Japanese craftsmanship and American sartorial culture, and the Lot. 704 Denim 1920s Trousers are like a denim time capsule inspired by early 20th-century waist overalls. They’re made from 11 oz. selvedge denim from Okayama, woven from 100% American organic Cotton with proprietary yarns that offer the right amount of slub for period-correct fades.
The fit is among the widest in this guide, with the size 32 boasting an 11″ hem. Period-correct details continue flowing with the crotch rivet and cinch back, but Taiga has signed these off with a unique mud-dyed leather waist patch.
Available for $425 from Division Road.
Samurai S2000
The Samurai S2000 is the brand’s loosest jean, replacing the previous S3000 model at the top of Mount Wide-Leg. Despite this, it’s slimmer than a lot of other models in this guide, with the hem width on a pair of 32s measuring in at roughly 8.6″ – a measurement typically seen on regular straight-leg jeans.
What the S2000 lacks in true width, it makes up for in a unique fabric unlike any other jean out there. Samurai deployed 15 oz. raw selvedge denim, woven from 100% Texas cotton that’s been sun into slub yarns. This is a recipe Samurai has been using for well over 15 years, and it’s a good one, to say the least, resulting in a rough-textured, slubby denim with loads of visual appeal before the fading has even begun.
Each pair is made in Japan and comes with painted arcuates (referencing WWII cotton rationing), a branded goatskin waist patch, silver iron buttons, and a silver selvedge ID that represents the Katan used by the Samurai.
Available for $350 from Franklin and Poe.
TCB Good Luck Jeans

If you’re a denim fan who likes to take it back to the beginning, you can’t go much further back than TCB‘s Good Luck Wide Straight Jeans, modelled after non-Levi’s denim dating back to the 1880s.
Made in Japan from 9 oz unsanforized Indian cotton, this special 2×1 fabric comes in a steely blue shade that provides the perfect backdrop for a host of historical details. These jeans tick all the boxes when it comes to early pairs from its single back pocket and buckle back cinch to the suspender buttons and wide, utilitarian cut. The pockets are ornate with their swooping shape and dart stitching. The darts were not just a fashion play but a functional one. During this time, Levi’s held the patent for rivets, so competitors had to get creative when it came to reinforced stress points on their jeans.
If you want a wide-leg jean with a story, look no further.
Available at Redcast Heritage for $289.
We were put onto the Kerbside & Co. Lot 75E back in 2022, and to put it bluntly, they’re absolute bangers. This silhouette has the same amount of width and grandeur as the Dawson Denim Wide-Legs, but with a slightly lower rise and no cinch back. They’re a more bread-and-butter wide-leg jean, seen here in neppy 14 oz. Japanese raw selvedge denim with a blue selvedge ID.
Made in Southeast Asia, the Lot 75E is finished with Scovill USA rivets and buttons, and a buttery soft Nappa leather waist patch.
Available for $306 from Kerbside & Co.
If a truly wide-leg fit with a traditional high rise is what you’re after, look no further than Dawson Denim‘s Wide Leg Jean. Seen here in 14 oz. organic cotton raw selvedge denim, this is one of the widest jeans on the market, crafted in Japan using vintage machinery. This full-legged fiasco comes complete with a cinch back, rivet reinforcements on all pockets, a selvedge fly, and branded hardware throughout.
Available at Dawson Denim for $400
Trophy Clothing TRP1505
Trophy Clothing is easily one of the most underrated brands coming out of Japan. A small label founded by Masaki Egawa, an enthusiast of vintage clothing and motorbikes, Trophy focuses on vintage styling like many other Japanese labels, but it really puts its own unique spin on things. Case in point, Trophy’s signature ‘Dirt Denim’, which they’ve applied to their widest cut, the TRP1505.
The TRP1505 is a wide jean elevated by the unique slubby hand of Trophy’s Dirt Denim. Whilst I haven’t tried these on, it’s evident that there is a gentle taper that slightly cuts things in towards the hem, which will make these easier to pair with sneakers. This particular pair is one washed for minimal shrinkage and finished with a half-selvedge outseam, painted rear pocket arcuates, a branded top button, and a custom waist patch.
Available for $185 from Denimio.
Kojima Genes RNB-102 Super Wide
Kojima Genes is one of those brands that hasn’t quite taken off in the West. I’m not quite sure why – it’s an artisanal brand coming straight out of what most people consider the denim capital of the world – Kojima. Regardless, they put out a fantastic wide-leg jean in the RNB-102 Super Wide.
Cut from 15 oz. raw selvedge denim woven in Kojima, these are just a straight-up classic selvedge denim jean in a traditional wide-leg fit that’s complemented by its array of vintage-Levi’s-style details like hidden rivets, rear pocket form, and chainstitch construction. Pure Japanamericana from an underrated label.
Available for ¥17,600 JPY (~$120) from Jeans Plaza (Rakuten)
Naked & Famous Strong Guy
You may know Naked & Famous for its novelty raw denim products like scratch ‘n’ sniff selvedge and glow-in-the-dark jeans, but it turns out they make a staple wide-leg cut that could be a complete essential in your wardrobe – the Strong Guy.
Constructed in Canada from a range of Naked & Famous fabrics, the Strong Guy is a tough silhouette that isn’t afraid to have those hems swingin’. It’s not as roomy in the seat as many of the others on this list, which leads to a wide-but-clean fit that can be dressed up or down. Any misconceptions you may have about pairing wide jeans with sneakers can be put to bed by Tate + Yoko’s styling pictured above.
Each pair is built with chain stitch construction and finished with flat-felled inseams, a full-grain leather waist patch, and silver metallic hardware.
Available for $165 from Tate + Yoko
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