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Aug 13 - Sweatshort 5+1 - Devium
David Shuck
August 13, 2024
Together with
/ Five Plus One /
Sweatshorts
Sweatshorts are an undeniable summer staple. Remote workers know that sweatshorts are the true daily driver, but they’re a useful garment no matter what your life holds— especially in the warmer months. Sweatshorts provide a comfortable anchor that can be paired with a t-shirt or tank in the daytime, or with a sweatshirt/full zip hoodie in the evening.
Sweatshorts are a dime a dozen, but we’re here to show you a range of high-quality options from some mighty fine makers in this edition of Five Plus One. We’ve got interesting weaves, unique colorways, and of course something kind of strange for the Plus One. Enjoy and stay comfy.
Kicking off with something simple yet effective is Canadian label, Bather. Available in a range of 4 summer-ready colorways, Bather’s Sweat Short channels the brand’s leisurewear DNA through 100% cotton French terry and pale colors that evoke images of beaming seaside getaways.
Each pair is made in Portugal and comes fitted with a ribbed drawstring waistband, a singular rounded patch pocket at the rear, and dual side entry pockets.
Available for $85 at Bather.
If you’ve already got a stack of sweatshorts but want something to jazz up your rotation, Faherty‘s Whitewater Sweatshorts in Shell Loop are waiting in the wings. They’re made from a cozy brush cotton-poly blend that’s been jacquard-knit with a herringbone pattern. As well as adding visual interest, this pattern adds a subtle formality to the shorts that would allow them to pair nicely with a linen shirt for a more put-together look.
Coming in a slim fit, the Faherty Whitewater Sweatshort features side seam pockets, corozo nut button rear pocket, an elasticated drawstring waist, and a slim fit. There’s even a matching hoodie if you’re after a summer sweatsuit.
Available for $98 at STAG .
Those of us who’ve drank the loopwheel Kool-Aid can often find it hard to go back to anything not woven on a vintage hanging machine. Thankfully, brands like Dubble Works bring loopwheeled goodness to the world of sweatshorts, in the likes of the Tubular ‘Active Dyed’ Sweatshorts.
The Warehouse & Co. sub-label specializes in knitted cotton garb and these Sweatshorts show you how they do things. This 100% cotton fabric is woven on vintage tubular knit machines that knit the yarns into a lightweight, breathable cloth with heaps of character from the slow and chattering weaving process. The finished fabric has been pigment dyed to inject further nuance and fading potential, making each pair of sweatshorts unique.
Inspired by vintage training shorts, these feature a ‘chopped’ hem with overlocking stitches to keep their shape. No shadowboxing in the coffee shop, though, please.
Available for $125 at Corlection.
The Merz B. Schwanen name commands a higher price but can you blame them? They’re the only loopwheel manufacturers in Europe and they’ve been putting out end-tier cotton basics for years, receiving worldwide acclaim the whole time.
The 356 12 oz. Loopwheeled Classic Fit Sweat Shorts are made from 12 oz. loopwheeled cotton fleece, knitted on rare 100-year-old Loopwheel machines nestled in the Swabian Alps of southwestern Germany. They come in a regular fit with no bells or whistles, aligning with Merz B. Schwanen’s ethos of ‘simply good basics. With classic side pockets and a singular back pocket, the 346 Sweat Short lets the end-tier fabric do the talking.
Each pair is sewn up in Germany and finished with a natural cotton cord on the waist.
Available for $153 at Redcast Heritage.
Devium‘s Fleetwood Shorts aren’t just another Sweat Short, they’re reactive garment-dyed and mineral-washed in small batches, making each short unique and imbued with patina from the get-go. There are 4 colorways to choose from, each with its own washed out, almost cobbled texture that will evolve even further with wear and laundering.
Like all of Devium’s goods, the Fleetwood Sweat Short is 100% American-made, from design to fabric milling and even the trims. Silhouette-wise, they’re your standard sweatshirt fare, elevated through the use of 100% cotton French terry with the aforementioned dyeing process, an custom tonal brand label above the left hem, and a singular rear pocket that closes with a custom cat-eye button from Pennsylvania.
Available for $98 from Devium USA.
They said Sweat Shorts couldn’t be weird and Frizmworks said ‘hold our beer’. The South Korean tastemakers are known for their range of menswear garb which often features widened or skewed iterations of iconic workwear pieces, but these Pouch Pocket Sweat Shorts issue a bizarro take on a classic athletic silhouette.
Coming in a classic heather gray, the Pouch Pocket Sweat Short from Frizmworks has a high-waisted, bellowing silhouette that takes the Sweat Short from staple to statement. The left leg is fitted with a rounded patch pocket that serves as another point of difference, whilst pleats at the waistband riff on classical menswear and articulate the wide fit ever so slightly.
Available for $106 from Wallace Mercantile.
/ In Partnership with Devium USA /
Devium’s collection of small batch originals are built to withstand the test of time. Whether that’s a pair of their new Utility Trunks made with Russell Surfboards or a classic Boca Flannel, everything from Devium is 100% made and sourced in USA and backed by their lifelong guarantee.
Many brands promote transparency in their supply chain, but Devium is the only one we’ve found to share the source of their materials and production for every garment they make and they guarantee if for life.
Get a look at their new collection at Devium.
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/ Reviews /
Oni and Redcast Test New Waters With “Kerama Blue” Denim
Summer is typically a time even the most ardent of denim heads escape their indigo prison, but Oni and Redcast Heritage have come up with an option they think will fit it just perfectly.
The “Kerama Blue” collection is the second collaboration between the secretive Japanese denim maker and the Spanish retailer, but it is one that’s going to turn heads. It features a slim cut jean and Type III denim jacket cut from a 15oz. selvedge denim and then heavily bio-washed to achieve a very light shade of blue.
I had the opportunity to wear test the jeans of this collection and found them to be unique and more wearable in hot weather, but still hard to deter me from the raw originals.
By the Numbers
Name: Redcast Heritage x Oni Denim “Kerama Blue” 15oz. Intense Bio-Washed Natural Indigo Jeans
Materials: 15oz. 100% cotton Japanese selvedge denim
Made in: Japan
Fit: Slim tapered and runs small, we recommend sizing up
Details:
Comes with custom branded tote bag
Veg-tanned horsehide patch with custom artwork by Jon Kutt
Limited to just 158 pairs
Available for $292 at Redcast Heritage
Fabric
I’ll start with this is the first pair of non-raw denim I have worn in at least a decade. Putting on a pair of pre-washed and soft jeans feels extremely alien to me and, as I have written at length the past, I have some pretty strong ideological opposition to pre-distressed anything.
The fabric itself is a 15oz. low-tension no-id selvedge denim, which I’m guessing is a similar fabric to Oni’s standard low-tension 15oz. denim (see here on their 200 and 222 models). The low tension makes it more breathable and adds some irregular character to the weave, which is even further highlighted by the wash.
Now let’s talk about that wash, which is going to be the most noteworthy and likely contentious subject of this release. Redcast’s effort here was to, “evoke the crystal-clear waters of Spain’s Mediterranean sea and the ocean of the Okinawa islands in Japan.” They describe going through many, many iterations and scouring vintage markets for 80s and 90s examples of acid and bleach-washed jeans to find it…
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