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- April 16 - Leather Derby Shoes 5+1
April 16 - Leather Derby Shoes 5+1
David Shuck
April 16, 2024
Together with
/ Five Plus One /
Leather Derby Shoes
Derbys are one of the most classic shoe and boot patterns, and while we’ve talked about them many times before there are some striking new options this season.
While sometimes incorrectly referred to as bluchers, a derby is an open-laced shoe where the lacing attaches directly to the quarter (which wraps around the back of the ankle) as opposed to a separate piece of leather that is sewn around the throat of the shoe (as is the case with a blucher). Regardless of the nomenclature, this is a fantastic casual pattern than should be in everyone’s footwear rotation.
Grant Stone‘s Country Derby in Storm Kudu uses a leather we’ve seen from other makers, Storm Kudu from C.F. Stead, and it’s just as beautiful here as it ever has been. It’s a silky smooth Kudu leather with lots of pull-up and tons of variation due to the non-farmed nature of the Kudus it is sourced from. Finished with tonal eyelets and a leather outsole, this is an excellent option for a derby that can be worn with a wide range of styles and doesn’t fall into the typical black and brown categories
Available for $370 from Grant Stone.
Oak Street Bootmakers might be most well known for their Trench Boot, but their Trench Oxford is perhaps even more refined. Shown here in Natural Chromexcel leather and with a studded Dainite outsole, this shoe offers excellent traction while staying sleek.
While Oak Street markets this shoe as an oxford, it’s a derby in our books.
Available for $462 from Oak Street Bootmakers.
If you’re interested in fiercely casual derbies, then Tricker’s Daniel Derby should certainly be on your hit list. It features a beautiful reverse kudu leather which pairs beautifully with the contrasting storm welt, French binding at the throat, and polished brass eyelets. This shoe is finished on a Vibram Morflex sole, which gives these stompers both a unique look and cements them as a formidable piece of casual footwear.
Available for $460 from Clutch Cafe.
Viberg‘s leather picks are always impeccable, and the ‘Winter Smoke’ Regency Calf they sourced from C.F. Stead for their Rockland Blucher (again, it’s a derby in our books) is simply perfect. Featuring brown, grey, and even purple hues, this derby would make a beautiful addition to your footwear arsenal, whether they’re worn every day or only for special occasions (but please, don’t do the latter).
Available for $820 from Viberg.
If you’re a fan of historically inspired footwear, John Lofgren‘s USN Low Quarter Shoes might be right up your alley. They’re made in Japan from a Japanese-finished French calfskin, and feature a very sleek pattern while still having a structurally stiff toe. Based on iconic derbys issued to USN and USMC personnel in the Pacific War, each pair is finished with a rubber half sole, you get all the comfort of flexibility of a leather sole with the traction and durability of rubber.
Available for $760 from Lost & Found.
Derbies are one of the most simple and versatile shoe styles, so if you want something that really stands out then Unmarked‘s Mismatch DBS-03 is the way to go. With contrasting black/natural panels that are mirrored between right and left shoes, these aren’t the kind of shoes you wear because you want to blend in. But if you want to add some style and flair to your outfit o whilst having some zany patina to look forward to, then these shoes might be the statement piece for you.
Each pair is crafted in Mexico by skilled shoemakers and ships with an Unmarked dust bag.
Available for $370 from Unmarked.
/ In Partnership with Grant Stone /
It takes over a month to make Badalassi Carlo Tannery's Minerva leather, and Grant Stone makes it into boots to last a lifetime.
During the process, the hides are placed in a 'Bottali,' a large rotating barrel, that allows the organic tanning substances to stay in contact with the tannins for 30-35 days. The result is a vibrant leather with transparency, depth, and grain.
You can find the Minerva on Grant Stone’s beautiful Saddle Tan version of their Diesel Boot as pictured above and throughout their full collection.
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/ New Releases /
If Picasso was a denim-head, he’d rock The Flat Head’s indigo Painter Pants, “It took me four years to fade a pair of PBJ’s, but a lifetime to wear jeans that look like they were made for a child.”
Constructed from high-quality 12oz. Japanese denim, TFH’s grand indigo dyed painter pants offer the ultimate marriage of durability and comfort. The classic indigo adds timeless, rugged charm, while the relaxed fit ensures ease of movement throughout the day.
With reinforced stitching and ample pocket space, you’ll have plenty of room for your brushes, tools, or stash of snacks (probably just snacks; let’s be honest). Equipped with a mid-high rise, the triple-stitched pants feature iron buttons, bar-tack stitching on the pockets, and Japanese twill-lined back pockets. And for all the detail junkies out there, even the hammer loop has its own selvedge ID.
Available for $311 from Corlection.
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If a vintage Patagonia rugby shirt and a luxurious towel got a little frisky and engaged in a textile tryst, their sartorial love-child would closely resemble Howlin’s Death Weekend long-sleeved polo shirt.
The piece, which has been crafted in Belgium, is made from Howlin’s special in-house knitted jersey fabric, comprised of 80% Oekotex 100® certified cotton and 20% polyester, for added durability. The towel-like fabric is carefully sewn together using a specialized knitting technique, producing a durable, soft, and absorbent texture with looped piles on one side. The somewhat “out there” piece features a relaxed fit and custom Howlin’ buttons. It also comes in a range of colorways, all of which resemble a kaleidoscope on a sugar rush.
For those that need to remain fitted 24/7, Howlin’s Death Weekend polo is the perfect poolside companion. Slip on with a pair of Baggies, saunter past the sun loungers, and treat yourself to a refreshing beveragino—you’ve earned it.
Available for $211 from Lost & Found.
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Indi + Ash has somehow unearthed a stash of deadstock suits from the set of Steven E. de Souza’s 1994 film “Street Fighter” and has decided to unleash these relics of cinematic history onto the unsuspecting world in limited quantities! I’m joking, of course, but its Study Jacket and Issac Pant come pretty close.
Reminiscent of vintage French workwear, the Issac pant is crafted from durable mill-woven organic cotton canvas and features an eye-catching all-over “paintbrush camo”, which has become a bit of an Indi + Ash signature over the years. Featuring reinforced knees and patch pockets, the pants seamlessly blend functionality with style.
Pair with the Study Jacket to complete your Guile cosplay. Constructed from lightweight organic cotton canvas, each jacket is hand screen printed with plant-based indigo paste and over-dyed multiple times in a fermented indigo vat, resulting in a rich depth of color. Reversible in design, it showcases intricate craftsmanship while offering versatility in styling.
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